Full battery disconnect, from the engine bay?

I have no access to the boot whatsoever, I appear to have immobiliser issues; is there any way to perform a battery disconnect from the engine bay rather than physically from the battery (to which I have no access)?

There are two terminal points on the bulkhead, where you'd normally jump-start the car, but if you remove this then you're only cutting off power to the engine itself, the interior is still powered.

So, can a "full battery" disconnect be done from the engine bay?
 
You put the key in the slot and turn it! It's on the right hand side, half way between the bmw badge and light, staring right at you
 
MKZ4000 said:
It works mechanically and will open with the key even with a dead battery, as will the drivers door

It doesn't have the lock mechanism in it, that's why I was asking about doing it manually.
 
eddiemunster said:
MKZ4000 said:
It works mechanically and will open with the key even with a dead battery, as will the drivers door

It doesn't have the lock mechanism in it, that's why I was asking about doing it manually.
You could have said that in the first place. drrrp.
facepalm_1.jpg
 
eddiemunster said:
SDJ said:
You put the key in the slot and turn it! It's on the right hand side, half way between the bmw badge and light, staring right at you

Not on my boot it isn't, there isn't a lock mechanism.
Okay, do have a Roadster or Coupe? If it is a roadster the lock is on the right side of the boot lid, if it's a coupe then the lock is under the BMW roundel. Push the top of the roundel and it will pivot in and the lock will be on the bottom.
 
eddiemunster said:
Chris_D said:
You could have said that in the first place. drrrp.

Sorry, are you having a bad day; there must be people out there that need your help, you don't need to continue commenting here.

To be fair you didn't mention whether you had a roaster or coupe or the key lock delete. Ordinarily this would be a simple job so people were confused. You probably know that you can get your arm in to the boot by removing one end of the rear bumper and accessing a vent behind the wheel arch. This helps if your keys are in there, but no use to you unless you can reach the battery which I doubt.

Is disconnecting the battery power is going to solve your immobiliser issue since it's all deadlocked? What's your plan?
 
Here's how the battery wiring looks.

battery wiring.gif

The under-bonnet terminals allow you to disconnect the ECU and ancillaries but not the internal loom. Unlikely this will help you power-cycle the immobiliser.
 
Liam22 said:
The under-bonnet terminals allow you to disconnect the ECU and ancillaries but not the internal loom.

Indeed, that's what I discovered when I disconnected it; it turns out that it's the GM5 module, I've taken that out (as the manual lock in the driver's door worked fine) and sent it off for repair.

I managed to get into the boot, without having to do anything with the rear bumper, I (a colleague) was able to open it electronically, but a full battery reset made no difference, hence tracing it back to the GM5.
 
eddiemunster said:
grannyknot said:
Okay, do have a Roadster or Coupe?

It's a roadster, the mechanism has been removed and plated.

Bad design right there, mate.

Maybe whoever modded your boot to not have the keyhole also made a secret release cable located under the car or in the wheelwel, if they were smart enough.
 
kalt said:
Maybe whoever modded your boot to not have the keyhole also made a secret release cable located under the car or in the wheelwel, if they were smart enough.

I won't post how, but we had it open, from the cockpit, in a couple of minutes without doing any damage whatsoever. Not that people go stealing old cars like these, but if they did, it would be quite easy if they knew what they were doing...
 
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