Fuel Tank
- Thread starter Jasonr816
- Start date
Attleborough, Norfolk
Maybe. All the wires from the blue/yellow plugs go to the pump/level sender. The relevant diagram on www.realoem.com shows 1 plug with 4 wires, 2 going to the pump and 2 to the level sensorenuff_zed said:
However, in my photos the red and black wires appear to go to the pump and 4 brown wires to the level sensor ? :?
Thank you for your response . In the photo the yellow plug seperates from the blue plug . the blue plug goes to the fuel pump assembly I am not sure what the yellow plug is for ? The wires on the yellow plug run over to the driver side of the tank and plug into something inside the tank. The wire insulation has come off the wires on the yellow plug and I am unsure if the other end of the plug is accessible for repair or I need to buy a new tank.
Looking at my own photos from when I replaced the fuel filter/pressure regulator and others on the Internet I think you'll struggle to drop the fuel tank without first removing most of/all the rear subframe and suspension, prop-shaft, hand brake cables, heat shields etcJasonr816 said:
Exhaust, heat shields, propshaft need to be removed. Disconnect the handbrake cables. The rear tie rods and "dogbone" bracket need to be removed but the subframe and rear suspension can stay put. The tricky part is the filler neck. It's permanently attached to the tank which makes the whole thing difficult to remove (and more difficult to reinstall). I *think* the lower trailing arm needed to be detached to clear the filler neck, but not completely removed.Jasonr816 said:
Gil Jackson
New member
Jason,
I never saw a response to the bare wire condition, nor what the yellow plug wiring goes to. I have mine disassembled now, and have the exact same bare wire findings. Could you tell me how you resolved the issue? Thank you.
Edit - Patriott66 above has a picture of the SIX wires that are connected to the fuel side of the Filter / Regulator, but it's only four wires that go from the blue connector that go to the fuel pump/Level Sensor. I have that out anon my work bench. As the Blue/Yelow connectors will separate, still in the tank is the yellow connector with the last two of the six wires running off into the tank. Still looking for an answer of what those might do, and if the car can be reassembled with that connector disabled. If they were both brown, as with the level sensor, they may remeasuring a resistance only, so seeking variation on 12 volts. If disconnected, or shorted together external to the tank, what system would that affect?
Thanks again.
I never saw a response to the bare wire condition, nor what the yellow plug wiring goes to. I have mine disassembled now, and have the exact same bare wire findings. Could you tell me how you resolved the issue? Thank you.
Edit - Patriott66 above has a picture of the SIX wires that are connected to the fuel side of the Filter / Regulator, but it's only four wires that go from the blue connector that go to the fuel pump/Level Sensor. I have that out anon my work bench. As the Blue/Yelow connectors will separate, still in the tank is the yellow connector with the last two of the six wires running off into the tank. Still looking for an answer of what those might do, and if the car can be reassembled with that connector disabled. If they were both brown, as with the level sensor, they may remeasuring a resistance only, so seeking variation on 12 volts. If disconnected, or shorted together external to the tank, what system would that affect?
Thanks again.
That's what I'm wondering. I know the wires are going to the opposite side lobe which has it's own level sensor.
If I were to tie them into the right lobe level sensor wires, would the ECM detect they are tied together or would it allow the fuel gauge to start working again.
It pulls the last of the fuel out of the right lobe, so I would still know when it was about empty.
Of course, this is a temporary solution until I replace the tank.
Any thoughts on whether this would work?
Thanks,
Greg
2005 Z4 2.5L
If I were to tie them into the right lobe level sensor wires, would the ECM detect they are tied together or would it allow the fuel gauge to start working again.
It pulls the last of the fuel out of the right lobe, so I would still know when it was about empty.
Of course, this is a temporary solution until I replace the tank.
Any thoughts on whether this would work?
Thanks,
Greg
2005 Z4 2.5L
Gil Jackson
New member
Great question, but I was able to have a friend over on a Saturday, and with the one man jobs of propshaft and exhaust already down, we dropped the rear cradle, the old tank, raised the new tank, and reset the rear cradle in no more than four hours. Once I saw bare wires in the tank, that car was not going to have power reapplied until wires with integrity were in place. Good luck with yours.
FWIW, with fresh fuel and cleaned injectors, the car fired up, and ran like a top.
FWIW, with fresh fuel and cleaned injectors, the car fired up, and ran like a top.