Front wheels tram lining

CHIMV8

Member
Morning
As the title,it wonders badly when not on totally flat roads

Not on run flats,bought the car with non discript new tyres,will it be because they are not top make tyres and just be too hard,or is something mechanical I need to look at
 
My tramlining disappeared after new lower front arms and bushes. The ride was completely transformed
 
Lots of threads on this... each of the list below should be addressed to improve the steering - most find polybushing works well, a few hate it

1. Polybush Lollypops
2. Polybush RTAB’s
3. Polybush ARB links from n rear
4. Replace steering tie rod ends
5. Replace front & rear drop links
6. Fit RTAB limiters if RTAB’s not enough
7. Fit the same tyres
8. After the above, remove any spacers for complete geometry set up, making sure tyre pressures are 100% & weights placed in car & half fuelled
9. Go Michelin, Vredestein or Goodyear F1 tyres
 
CHIMV8 said:
On 4 and 5 do you replace like for like or upgrade??

Meyle products can be found on eBay are OEM suppliers to BMW / AUDI & many other manufacturers... just look for the HD (heavy duty) ones.

I didn’t mention shocks n springs, though this again helps the cause
 
A suspension refresh and competent 4 wheel alignment cured mine. Jembo has the component's list spot on and was pretty much what I worked through to sort things, minus the limiters. But I would start with tyres as the Z4 is weirdly affected by tyre profile, anything with a rounded edge apparently helps the tyre 'climb' out of ruts rather than a square edged tyre which sits in the rut or white line and fights you. My old Falkens were round cornered and really stable, the current Eagles are slightly more square and potentially jittery, but a better tyre when everything is sorted.
 
CHIMV8 said:
Tyres....marked THREE
225x40x18 all round
Tyre pressures correct

Three-A? They are budget and you should replace them in the long term (or, if you have the cash, ASAP!), but I'm sure they have pretty wobbly side walls so may not contribute to the tramlining.

What pressure in PSI? There is no "correct" pressure for non-runflats on your car so you'll need to experiment.

As above, it's worth refreshing the bushes, but check the amount of play in each bush (or get a garage to do it) before you go replacing anything. You could easily waste £200 replacing good bushes, only to find that a £100 alignment is what is needed. And make sure that you understand the compromises of poly bushes. Replacing the ARB (mount) bushes with poly is generally not a bad idea, but I'd go OEM rubber for the suspension bushes; particularly anything with multi-axis movement like the RTABs or front wishbone rear bushes (aka lollipops).

You can add front wishbone ball joints to Jembo's list too - the Meyle HD front wishbones are a good shout as they come with new balljoints and lollipops already fitted, and the balljoints are replaceable, unlike the OEM wishbones.
 
The other thing to adjust is the concentric ring on the steering motor, this made a difference to my car wondering around at speed.
 
Mine tramlined very badly on (just) legal Vredstein Ultrac Sessantas. Changed to new Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetrics and the whole car was transformed.
 
RickRob said:
Mine tramlined very badly on (just) legal Vredstein Ultrac Sessantas. Changed to new Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetrics and the whole car was transformed.

Yet mine has just had new wheels put on it, with Eagle F1s, and is now a lot worse that it was on the old set of wheels with Uniroyal Rainsport 3s. Go figure! :?
 
What wheels are you running? The reason I ask is a change from the standard offsets can cause tramlining or make it worse. I removed my spacers recently for this reason and the tramlining that had developed was massively reduced.
Google scrub radius for more info on this
 
ErrErrminator said:
RickRob said:
Mine tramlined very badly on (just) legal Vredstein Ultrac Sessantas. Changed to new Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetrics and the whole car was transformed.

Yet mine has just had new wheels put on it, with Eagle F1s, and is now a lot worse that it was on the old set of wheels with Uniroyal Rainsport 3s. Go figure! :?

See my previous post above......... F1's have a square edge profile. When I changed from Falkens (round edge profile) to F1's tramlining started and required a lot of suspension replacements and alignment to sort. Basically, stiff walled (RFT) or square edged tyres expose wear problems with the suspension.
 
18" is the wheel diameter size
8 1/2" is the width
JJ is the rim profile (shape) I think JJ is more common on 4x4's rather than sports cars (but I may be wrong).

The offset number will have the letters ET in front e.g. 'ET45'

You need a 'Wheel Nut' to chip in here, but 8 1/2" is quite wide on the front, a lot of tread to grip and play around on poor surfaces will make things squirmy. My 18" Dia style BMW 108 wheels are 8" wide on the front, some original 16" wheels were only 7"
 
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