Front Disk removal

[Alan Pugh]

My front brake disks are worn with a 1mm lip around the edges on both sides. I bought new disk rotors and pads but can't get the brake calipers off to remove the rotors. I think the pads are jamming on the raised lip of the rotor. Any suggestions to getting the things off?

 

[TLRominger]

You'll need to bleed the calibers off to allow the brake pads to seperate some. This will allow them to slip over the disk.

 

[andysat]

1mm-is that all?

 

[cj10jeeper]

1mm is nothing as andysat indicates. Still that's not the question.

All you need to do is pry the caliper back off the disc a few mm and it will easily come off. No need to 'bleed' anything as you just risk letting air in, but undo the mastercylinder cap a 1/2 turn and keep an eye on the fluid level.

I assume you WILL change pads too in which case press the pistons right back in

 

[AlanJ]

1mm is nothing as andysat indicates. Still that's not the question.

All you need to do is pry the caliper back off the disc a few mm and it will easily come off. No need to 'bleed' anything as you just risk letting air in, but undo the mastercylinder cap a 1/2 turn and keep an eye on the fluid level.

I assume you WILL change pads too in which case press the pistons right back in

And if you do - take the cap of the master cylinder reservoir to allow the 'back' pressure to release and be careful of overspill as you push the pads back. I use an old surgical syringe to remove some of the fluid from the master cylinder before I push the pads back to prevent overspill into the engine compartment and even then put old rag around and under the master cylinder just to prevent a spill of brake fluid.

 

[TLRominger]

1mm is nothing as andysat indicates. Still that's not the question.

All you need to do is pry the caliper back off the disc a few mm and it will easily come off. No need to 'bleed' anything as you just risk letting air in, but undo the mastercylinder cap a 1/2 turn and keep an eye on the fluid level.

I assume you WILL change pads too in which case press the pistons right back in

And if you do - take the cap of the master cylinder reservoir to allow the 'back' pressure to release and be careful of overspill as you push the pads back. I use an old surgical syringe to remove some of the fluid from the master cylinder before I push the pads back to prevent overspill into the engine compartment and even then put old rag around and under the master cylinder just to prevent a spill of brake fluid.

And doing the job properly by bleeding the fluid off at the calibers will make sure there will be no spillage in the engine compartment or on the body. Just attach a length of tubing to the bleed nipple on the calibe . Put the other end into a fresh can of brake fluid then open the bleed nipple a quater of a turn. This will allow for easy decompression of the caliber and will remove the risk of scratching or scoring the rotors and calibers while you try to "PRY" the calibers off.

 

[cj10jeeper]

1mm is nothing as andysat indicates. Still that's not the question.

All you need to do is pry the caliper back off the disc a few mm and it will easily come off. No need to 'bleed' anything as you just risk letting air in, but undo the mastercylinder cap a 1/2 turn and keep an eye on the fluid level.

I assume you WILL change pads too in which case press the pistons right back in

And if you do - take the cap of the master cylinder reservoir to allow the 'back' pressure to release and be careful of overspill as you push the pads back. I use an old surgical syringe to remove some of the fluid from the master cylinder before I push the pads back to prevent overspill into the engine compartment and even then put old rag around and under the master cylinder just to prevent a spill of brake fluid.

And doing the job properly by bleeding the fluid off at the calibers will make sure there will be no spillage in the engine compartment or on the body. Just attach a length of tubing to the bleed nipple on the calibe . Put the other end into a fresh can of brake fluid then open the bleed nipple a quater of a turn. This will allow for easy decompression of the caliber and will remove the risk of scratching or scoring the rotors and calibers while you try to "PRY" the calibers off.

Actually the master cylinder is designed in such a way that when the pads are brand new the fluid level should be at the 'Max' mark and when worn out drop to the Min' mark. There should never ever be any need to remove excess fluid. It's only poor servicing in the interim where dealers/people top it up that causes any issue.

As for scoring discs. That would be pretty ham fisted. I'm talking about gripping the caliper by hand and wriggling it, being enough to loosen it. In the instance of a change of pads and discs which op is doing - it doesn't matter anyway

 

[aquazi]

I have had calipers off plenty of previous cars (not the Z though) and CJ's method worked for me everytime.... remove a few bolts at the back which hold the caliper in place and then wiggle the caliper off the disc.