Fitting front brake discs

[obewan]

I'm looking for some advice please
I noticed recently that my front brake discs are not wearing evenly - pic below, there is about a 15-20mm region on the outer edge with no pad contact

Quite handy with car DIY so looked all over t'internet for a 'how to' without success. - can anyone comment on how easy it is?
I recently did the same job on the wife's Astra - that was simple enough (once I'd realised the caliper piston was different to her old one - wind back)
Couple of bolts holding caliper on - remove anti-squeal, brake pads. Wind piston back. remove old disc. re-fit

Is the Zed similar? - I've read about a brake pad sensor.
Also there seems to be a whole multitude of discs on line that would fit - anywhere from £50 to £175, drilled and un-drilled
I was looking at some Brembo for £90, if only as they seemed a decent price for a make I'd heard of

Again comments/advice greatly appreciated

Oh before I forget, I know they want painting - actually got some paint to do the job, that's when I noticed the rim.
New ones will be painted before fitting

 

[Ducklakeview]

There's something not right there, are they both like that?

I'd say the wrong pads have been fitted at some stage... The outer edge "unswept" area should be much more like it is on the inner edge of your disc. The actual worn area of the disc looks in good condition, so I'd say it's definitely the wrong pads, there will be several part no's with almost identical backplate dimensions, BUT different friction material dimensions, so whilst they may fit....

Disc wise, I've just fitted MTEC slotted & dimpled to my 3.0, although I have also done the upgrade to Si spec, so my larger discs were £79 odd using the "NEW10" discount code. They stop VERY well... http://www.mtecbrakes.com/


Mike

 

[obewan]

There's something not right there, are they both like that?

Yeah both the same. one at about 10mm the other nearer 15mm
The rest of the disc, like you say is in good nick

I've just had a better look at them - there is loads of meat on the pads and they look relatively new (only had the car since end of May)
But the pads have a very distinct wedge shape to them.

 

[Ducklakeview]

Are the pads worn flat, as in between the radiused edges, not the chamfered ones? Post a pic if you're not sure what I mean. If they are, then they are definitely the wrong ones.

Mike

 

[obewan]

Are the pads worn flat, as in between the radiused edges, not the chamfered ones? Post a pic if you're not sure what I mean. If they are, then they are definitely the wrong ones.

Mike

here you go - is this what you meant??

 

[enzed4]

I've just done the same as ducklakeview (slotted/dimpled mtec discs) over the past couple of weekends (front & rear).
NOTE: If you go the Mtec route, pay the extra and get coated discs, the uncoated ones seem to have an issue with premature rusting.
It was a relatively easy job. I used a good youtube video - the guy's easy to understand and the camera work is very good for a YT video.
[youtube]q3spy5jtvXo[/youtube]
The rear discs were pretty much the same.
Only gotcha was getting the hubs off if they were rusted on. I had one rotor that wouldn't come off with a few taps from a rubber mallet, so it was back to youtube to find this solution. There are many videos of this process, in this one, after 'breaking' the rotor free the first time, he doesn't rotate the rotor 180 degrees to do the other side, which is what the video I used shows, and what I would recommend if the whole rotor doesn't break free the first time.
[youtube]pMuHKDI00rw[/youtube]
Best of luck

 

[Lance]

Disc and pad change is very simple, I've done mine all round on my Z4 and if all goes well it's about 30-45mins a wheel.

Make sure you have a good Allen key set for the disc retaining screw/bolt and a good fitting 16mm ring spanner for the calliper carrier bolts, for which you might also need some extra leverage as they are very very tight.

I used pagid pads and discs from Eurocarparts, fronts all in were under £80. If the sensor hasn't been triggered, reuse.

Also, the pistons push back, no need for a wind in tool.

Good luck

 

[Ducklakeview]

Are the pads worn flat, as in between the radiused edges, not the chamfered ones? Post a pic if you're not sure what I mean. If they are, then they are definitely the wrong ones.

Mike

here you go - is this what you meant??

Hard to tell the pad/disc contact area from that angle, HOWEVER there is a noticeable bevel in the pad wear, you may have sticking sliders, but really need the caliper off to check the pad contact area.

Mike

 

[obewan]

Thanks for all the replies guys - much appreciated
I looked on the Mtec site but it didn't mention my car (2.0l)

I assume the E46 vids on Youtube apply to the Zed as well then?

Lance - what did you mean by the sensor 'triggered'?

 

[obewan]

Hard to tell the pad/disc contact area from that angle, HOWEVER there is a noticeable bevel in the pad wear, you may have sticking sliders, but really need the caliper off to check the pad contact area.

Mike

Sorry Mike, only angle I could get the camera in
TBH, I noticed it a few weeks ago - should have taken it back to the dealer as I had a 3 month warranty - another matter whether it was covered of course

Looks like I may as well replace - an old school friend has a motor spares shop in town so might approach him to get everything matched up
He always gives me a discount anyway

My wife's car only had a few ripples in the disc - new ones made an amazing difference - God knows what this will be like!

 

[enzed4]

Thanks for all the replies guys - much appreciated
I looked on the Mtec site but it didn't mention my car (2.0l)

I assume the E46 vids on Youtube apply to the Zed as well then?

Lance - what did you mean by the sensor 'triggered'?

E46 brakes pretty much identical from what I could tell when I did mine.

When the sensor wears due to the pads wearing out, it makes an electrical circuit and activates the warning light on the dash. If the light's not on the dash (which it shouldn't be looking at how much is left on the pad in your pic) then you can remove the brake wear sensor and reuse it on the new pads. There is also an argument for just replacing it with a new one each time you replace the pads as it's pretty cheap. The front pads I bought (Bendix) came with a replacement front pad sensor so I just replaced the old one.

 

[Lance]

Lance - what did you mean by the sensor 'triggered'?

As Enzed4 said - When the pads are worn down to the limit the sensor rubs against the disc and triggers the low brake pad light, also wearing the sensor at the same time.

Cheers

 

[flybobbie]

All the pads I have bought have the bevel. They look fairly new pads.
Could it have the wrong diameter discs fitted.
If so would have thought that they might rub on the calliper.

 

[obewan]

All the pads I have bought have the bevel. They look fairly new pads.
Could it have the wrong diameter discs fitted.
If so would have thought that they might rub on the calliper.

Plenty of meat on the pads that's for sure, but the 'untouched' bit on the discs are a slightly different width
Anyway I've ordered new discs, pads & sensors off my mate that has a cars spares business - so hopefully got all the right bits
They should have arrived by now, but I'm out of the country for work
Plan is to paint the disc hubs first. Then get them all fitted.
I'll let you know how I get on
Appreciate all the advice guys

 

[srhutch]

Disc and pad change is very simple, I've done mine all round on my Z4 and if all goes well it's about 30-45mins a wheel.

Make sure you have a good Allen key set for the disc retaining screw/bolt and a good fitting 16mm ring spanner for the calliper carrier bolts, for which you might also need some extra leverage as they are very very tight.

I used pagid pads and discs from Eurocarparts, fronts all in were under £80. If the sensor hasn't been triggered, reuse.

Also, the pistons push back, no need for a wind in tool.

Good luck

Doesn't the E brake cause issues when trying to change the rears on an E89?

 

[flybobbie]

I have had good results spraying my discs and callipers with Plastcote chrome paint.
Callipers go a bit dull after a while, but the disc hubs stay shiny.

E brake comes apart quite easily.

 

[obewan]

Well, I picked up all the bits today

Not intending to fit until next week-end but thought I would paint the disc hub
Unpacked to find it was already painted - will this last do you think or should paint with Hammerite as intended?


I've measured the disc radius and they are the same - so I guess that rules out the wrong discs fitted.
My mate reckons there was only one brake pad option for my car, so I hope that just means they are sticking - or warped?
Still seems a bit odd to me - I was hoping it was a wrong part really - something definite
I could understand one sticking, but both?

 

[Baza]

Did you get 4 new retaining bolts/screws with the discs . If not ,would recommend getting new ones the existing ones will no doubt be difficult to remove and can be damaged when trying. Would recommend a 6 mm socket you get a more even pressure than just an allen key I would also try spraying some gas-plus onto them and also where possible the join between hub and disc .Discs can be a bugger to get off. When fitting new discs after cleaning rust from Hub would put a very light smear of copper grease before fitting new disc as it will help if you need to remove discs in the future.

 

[VRSteve]

When fitting new discs after cleaning rust from Hub would put a very light smear of copper grease before fitting new disc as it will help if you need to remove discs in the future.

Don't do this.

 

[Ducklakeview]

When fitting new discs after cleaning rust from Hub would put a very light smear of copper grease before fitting new disc as it will help if you need to remove discs in the future.

Don't do this.

Yup, asking for problems. A TINY amount on the centre raised section to facilitate easy disc/wheel removal is the most I would use.

Mike