Fitting DRLs to a pre face lift E85

[sam1832]

Here's where I took my switched live from:

Open the box ( there are 4 x T25 hex bolts and a hinge against the wing)

Splice the red /white cable and take the switched positive feed:

Close up:

Hope that helps....


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Wonderful that's EXACTLY what I was after, I knew there would be a really helpful and knowledgeable person on here somewhere

Many thanks

Norman

Two people told you exactly that ....

Maybe you want me to come round and do it for you ....

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[NeilP]

Wonderful that's EXACTLY what I was after, I knew there would be a really helpful and knowledgeable person on here somewhere

Many thanks

Norman

Two people told you exactly that ....

Maybe you want me to come round and do it for you ....

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

It's easier to have someone tell you what to do though.

Experimenting can get ridiculously expensive.

To the op, I know Mark used a t-tap, but consider splicing, soldering and heatshrinking. I know it's more invasive than a t-tap but there are less issues with such.

 

[nfarmer]

Two people told you exactly that ....

Maybe you want me to come round and do it for you ....

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Where did they tell me? I must have missed that, can you tell me please.

 

[nfarmer]

It's easier to have someone tell you what to do though.

Experimenting can get ridiculously expensive.

To the op, I know Mark used a t-tap, but consider splicing, soldering and heatshrinking. I know it's more invasive than a t-tap but there are less issues with such.

I must say I thought one of the main purposes of this forum was to share our knowledge to help others, shipkiller's web site springs to mind as an excellent example now lost to all due to unhelpful comments.

I have gleaned loads of helpful information on here and I hope and trust the sharing will continue without snide comments!!

Yep fully intend to splice, solder and heatshrink - I HATE scotch-locks and crimped connections

 

[markeg]

It's easier to have someone tell you what to do though.

Experimenting can get ridiculously expensive.

To the op, I know Mark used a t-tap, but consider splicing, soldering and heatshrinking. I know it's more invasive than a t-tap but there are less issues with such.

I must say I thought one of the main purposes of this forum was to share our knowledge to help others, shipkiller's web site springs to mind as an excellent example now lost to all due to unhelpful comments.

I have gleaned loads of helpful information on here and I hope and trust the sharing will continue without snide comments!!

Yep fully intend to splice, solder and heatshrink - I HATE scotch-locks and crimped connections

Totally agree guys, splice and solder. It's on my list of things to do this winter now the garage is up - scotch locks are always a temporary thing ...


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[sam1832]

Two people told you exactly that ....

Maybe you want me to come round and do it for you ....

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Where did they tell me? I must have missed that, can you tell me please.

Here:

Multimeter on the fusebox for a switched feed and then use a break out fuse holder?

And here:

Got anymore info on this black box

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They are Osram night@day Havent a clue whats inside the box but when connected to permanent live and the sidelights it turns the DRL's on when you start and off when the sidelights come on..Magic

Other than witch craft ita probably just a relay in the box,
When the ignition is on the drls are on, when the side lights are on the relay opens and turns them off

Passenger side back of the engine bay, box with black lid, look in there for a switched live

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Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

[Yorkie Z]

Have you not hooked it up so when you unlock the car they come on.????

http://youtu.be/vl9A5r1F7Hw

 

[Bad_Pritt]

Here's where I took my switched live from:

Open the box ( there are 4 x T25 hex bolts and a hinge against the wing)

Splice the red /white cable and take the switched positive feed:

Close up:

Hope that helps....

I've been wanting to do the same so my angels stay on all the time. They already light up on locking and unlocking the car via the comfort module.
I'm an absolute noob when it comes to car electrics though...

So for example, if I want my side lights to stay on (to which the angels are connected now) I tap of the red-white cable and just keep the positive feed I already have on the side lights? I suppose the positive feed on the sidelights is red..? Worst case scenario: what happens If I use the wrong one on the side lights? (don't laugh guys, you had to learn at some point too)

 

[markeg]

The red/white is your switched positive feed - take a tap off that, connect an in line fuse, then splice it to your positive lead in the angels (usually red, but could be another colour except black). Your negative (also called ground) can come from the existing negative, or a new negative. Just don't splice your red/white feed into your negative feed - it won't work.

 

[Bad_Pritt]

That's more clear, thanks!

 

[sk93]

just read this entire thread.
Some very arse-like attitudes going on here..

in other news, any info on the OEM retrofit that is pictured here?
Part number(s) - costs..
do I need anything in place beforehand etc (eg, do I need blanking plates first too)?

 

[markeg]

What details are you after, Ian - do you mean my pics?

 

[sk93]

info for the facelift retrofit kit thingy...

this basically:

 

[NeilP]

The red/white is your switched positive feed - take a tap off that, connect an in line fuse, then splice it to your positive lead in the angels (usually red, but could be another colour except black). Your negative (also called ground) can come from the existing negative, or a new negative. Just don't splice your red/white feed into your negative feed - it won't work.

I know this is old and am unsure if Bad has already gone ahead with it, but given there is already a comfort module illuminating the lights, it might be worth putting in a couple of diodes to stop any potential backfeed.

 

[Bad_Pritt]

The red/white is your switched positive feed - take a tap off that, connect an in line fuse, then splice it to your positive lead in the angels (usually red, but could be another colour except black). Your negative (also called ground) can come from the existing negative, or a new negative. Just don't splice your red/white feed into your negative feed - it won't work.

I know this is old and am unsure if Bad has already gone ahead with it, but given there is already a comfort module illuminating the lights, it might be worth putting in a couple of diodes to stop any potential backfeed.

Thanks for the head's up. But I can program the module any way I want, except for drl's on startup (I can choose fogs, headlights, rear lights on startup just not the damn sidelights...)
Having said that, will you not get any issues when you switch the sidelights on with the regular button if the same sidelights are also connected to the ignition feed?

 

[markeg]

When I wired in my angel eyes, the choice was between using a sidelight connection or a switched live feed. I initially chose a switched live feed, but changed to the sidelights when I decided I didn't want them on all the time.

Having two live connections won't cause an issue with the power to the side lights, but as Neil points out could potentially (electrical pun there ) cause current to feed back into the control module. I would disconnect the comfort module connections unless that causes a "light failure" warning, in which case the diode connections would make perfect sense.

 

[NeilP]

So are you all soldered up now then Mark?

 

[markeg]

Actually, I am now Neil Did it at the same time as my gaptech - although I'm not currently using the switched live connection so have it tapped off :roll: