First MHD Logging results (OEM BMW map)

stuartinzg said:
35i-Nut said:
Ive been doing lots of reading up on the MHD flasher on the other american forums , big following for it in the US , seems its taking over from COBB for the prefered tuning module

Could you please provide some further info , or links to the various cables you have bought to get this up and running

Ive read certain cables dont work , would be nice to buy all the right leads first time around before I start tinkering :lol:

Sure, sorry for my late reply.

I'm really happy with this latest pull, 329hp~ estimated which is around 378-380 at the crank. I didn't bother going to 7000, changed at 6500 or lower I think.

I've managed to capture timing too, so I'll pop that up to datazap.

bmw_pull.jpg

Your results look good ! any more info on the cables and accessories you needed for your install ?
 
stuartinzg said:
Zap results: http://datazap.me/u/stuartinzg/serviced?log=0&data=4-18-21-25

Seems to be some timing corrections but I don't really understand it - can anyone help me out?

That log is fine for stock.
The stock map is far from perfect and if that log were to come from a tuned car I would advise you ask them to re-do it!

The main points I check are:

Cyl1-6 Timing Cor* - These are the timing corrections that are due to knock. This log doesn't have any but minor corrections are fairly normal even on a stock car.

Boost mean PSI vs Boost target PSI - I compare these to make sure the boost is smooth and at least shadowing the requested boost. Oscillating boost mean PSI would mean the PID is setup poorly and needs tweaking.

Throttle Position - This should read 81 while your foot is on the floor. If your accelerator pedal position reads 99.6% and the throttle is reading less than 81 that means the DME is intervening and closing the throttle for some reason. The usual causes are traction control and the boost mean PSI going above the boost target PSI.
In your log the car is overboosting above 6000RPM so the throttle closes slightly to reduce the boost.

Timing cyl.1 crk* - This is the actual ignition advance being targeted. All cylinders target the same ignition adv unless knock is detected. In that case the individual cylinder will temporarily have a correction factor applied to prevent super knock.
In your log the timing is great until you shift. During the shift the boost spikes and the DME retards timing (this retardation is not logged as a correction because it's not knock related). You see that purple line jumping about after the shift, that's the DME trying to protect the transmission from excessive torque I think. It's normal for the timing to go flat for a millisecond during shift but it should jump right back up after, and not dip like in that log.
The boost spike during shift is something I'm trying very hard to tune out on my own map, it seems to happen on all DCT transmissions and is probably due to the speed of the shift and the timing retardation the DME uses during shift to lower engine torque and aid clutch engagement.

stft 1% and stft 2% - These are the short term fuel trims applied to banks 1 and 2 respectively to keep the AFR on target. Basically anything above 15% or below -15% is bad and you're engine is getting close to being unable to achieve the correct targeted AFR. This is usually down to bad Lamba sensors, bad injectors or fuel pumps not supplying enough pressure to the injectors.
There is also long term fuel trims that can be logged, you should try ticking those in the logging options. You can read up about long and short term fuel trims on any forum as it's a common air/fuel management system applied to all engine ECUs.

Fuel low pressure sensor - The N54 usually has a low pressure fuel sensor. If this reads below 50 you have a bad low pressure fuel sensor. The Z4 35i/s is the only car with an N54 not to have this sensor. This is probably due to the fact we have a much better fuel pump than other N54 cars with larger diameter fuel lines so it was deemed unnecessary.

Rail Pressure PSI - If this falls below 1500 you have a bad high pressure fuel pump and should get it sorted. The car will not go into limp mode in the event on a lean running condition so you can actually cause serious damage pushing the car hard on a bad HPFP.

Lamba Bank 1/2 AFR - This is the air fuel ratio reading in each respective bank. Stock cars run rich, tuned cars will run a little leaner for more power and fuel econonmy. If you look at the readings of both banks during overrun while the fuel is cutoff to the engine you should see both readings max out at 234.95. If one is reading anything less you have a leaking injector in that bank.


These are the key channels I tend to look at when evaluating a log. If you ever decide to custom tune your car you will get to know more channels but if you are just evaluating the health of a car and not trying to tweak a map the above points will serve you well.

With the DCT the torque limit active channel is also quite useful. On tuned cars you sometimes get values in that channel during shifts which indicate transmission slip and over torque. JB4 users will tend to see these more than others as their crappy little piggyback toasts their clutchpacks :rofl:

With the MHD maps you will be safe. Wedge knows how to manage the DCT shifts in his tunes.

When you decide to apply a tune to your car feel free to post the logs here and I'll take a look for you.
 
35i-Nut said:
Your results look good ! any more info on the cables and accessories you needed for your install ?

The only things you need to use MHD are:

- Android device that supports OTG. If you are unsure just google your device along with the phrases OTG support and you will get your answer.

- USB OTG adapter - Buy a good quality one from a brand you recognise not an eBay special. Make sure it's the correct USB fitment for your Android USB port, either USB Micro A or USB Micro B.

- OBD2 cable - The best source for these is the cable shack store http://stores.ebay.co.uk/cable-shack-store Make sure to get one that supports the E89 Z4. PM the seller if you are unsure.

- MHD app from the store
 
R.E92 said:
...Lots of great info....

Thanks, that's really helpful. Would you say that the car is running healthy enough for a stage 1 tune?

Some observations based on your feedback-

1. I see that at 6656rpm, stft1% is at -14.7, this seems close to your -15 ?
2. Rail pressure is low to start (I assume because not full throttle) and then goes high, gradually tailing off to 1528@5678rpm, then bumps up again and holds steady at 1900-2000 for the next 750rpm, any ideas why?
3. Lambda randomly spikes at 4800, I don't see a 234.95 anywhere?

Hmm... now I'm more confused than before ! :wink: A little knowledge is dangerous, eh?
 
stuartinzg said:
R.E92 said:
...Lots of great info....

Thanks, that's really helpful. Would you say that the car is running healthy enough for a stage 1 tune?

Some observations based on your feedback-

1. I see that at 6656rpm, stft1% is at -14.7, this seems close to your -15 ?
2. Rail pressure is low to start (I assume because not full throttle) and then goes high, gradually tailing off to 1528@5678rpm, then bumps up again and holds steady at 1900-2000 for the next 750rpm, any ideas why?
3. Lambda randomly spikes at 4800, I don't see a 234.95 anywhere?

Hmm... now I'm more confused than before ! :wink: A little knowledge is dangerous, eh?

1. 34% is max for the fuel trims I think. I've just always been told that you want to be below 15% and above -15%. I suppose it's to leave a good margin for the ECU to operate within.

With a tune you will probably have the fuel scalar adjusted which applies a bias to the fuelling which can manage the trims within reason.

Bad and uneven trims can be a symptom of air leaks but yours look perfectly normal for a stock car.

2. You're right that the fuel pump will only run full tilt when you are WOT. Yours does get low, will be something to look out for when you tune. Is your HPFP original?
The more boost you push the more fuel the engine needs so this will really push the fuel pump.

3. Your log doesn't have any overrun so the lambda won't go max scale. This is another log of yours and I have highlighted where the overrun occurs: http://datazap.me/u/stuartinzg/3rd-gear-runs?log=0&data=4-16-17-21&mark=20
Both readings max out so you look healthy there too.


I would say you are good to apply a tune. My honest opinion would be to skip the OTS maps and go straight for a custom tune. The OTS maps cost £50 and a custom tune I think is £200. I get the impression you are the kind of guy who would end up getting a custom tune further down the line anyway.
 
If you look carefully you can see a low peek in the gear change on your WOT run then there's a slower shift after you come off the throttle, this results in a much bigger AFR spike. In both cases the Lambda peeks may be between sampling points, they are 0.1-0.13 seconds apart which is an age for an ECU.
 
techathy said:
If you look carefully you can see a low peek in the gear change on your WOT run then there's a slower shift after you come off the throttle, this results in a much bigger AFR spike. In both cases the Lambda peeks may be between sampling points, they are 0.1-0.13 seconds apart which is an age for an ECU.

In numpty terms what does that mean? :D
 
stuartinzg said:
techathy said:
If you look carefully you can see a low peek in the gear change on your WOT run then there's a slower shift after you come off the throttle, this results in a much bigger AFR spike. In both cases the Lambda peeks may be between sampling points, they are 0.1-0.13 seconds apart which is an age for an ECU.

In numpty terms what does that mean? :D
Say your AFR peeks at 12.38 seconds, but the log samples are taken at 12.32 and 12.44 seconds. Instead of a huge spike you get two slightly elevated readings.

PS. perfect timing... I just got on my lunch break
 
R.E92 said:
35i-Nut said:
Your results look good ! any more info on the cables and accessories you needed for your install ?

The only things you need to use MHD are:

- Android device that supports OTG. If you are unsure just google your device along with the phrases OTG support and you will get your answer.

- USB OTG adapter - Buy a good quality one from a brand you recognise not an eBay special. Make sure it's the correct USB fitment for your Android USB port, either USB Micro A or USB Micro B.

- OBD2 cable - The best source for these is the cable shack store http://stores.ebay.co.uk/cable-shack-store Make sure to get one that supports the E89 Z4. PM the seller if you are unsure.

- MHD app from the store

Thanks for the info , I'll get on it and order some bits

Does the MHD have the facility to clear tuner codes ? like using this tool ?

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=325407
http://www.n54tuning.com/bav-tech-bmw-scan-tool.html
 
Yes, it can clear all codes and reset all adaptions.

Even if you don't use it for tuning it's a useful tool for problem solving.
 
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