Fan on constantly from start up - help - CODES ADDED

synthedup

Senior member
 Rotherham
Hi all.

Another problem here..... starting to get me down now.

I have noticed today that my fan comes on full from
Start up. The temp gage sits at 12oclock once warm and drives fine.

Anyone has a similar issue?

It’s 2006, 2.0i N46 engine.

Possible water pump? A sensor?

Is it safe to drive as long as the temp gage says it’s iver heading?
 
Your thermostat might be conked out? I replaced mine a while back, though I can't remember why I did it.
 
ben g said:
Your thermostat might be conked out? I replaced mine a while back, though I can't remember why I did it.


Is it an easy diy job?

raymond.harper said:
Will be alright to drive. Is it possible you have left the air con on ?


I normally leave it clicked so it comes on when the ensure is on. The car had been stood a while though. Would that cause this?
 
When the fan on my n52 started doing the same thing it was an early warning sign of impending nuclear meltdown of the electronic water pump :cry:
I’d get the codes read by a decent Indy sooner rather than later, (my temp gauge stayed in the middle as well)....
Rob
 
The parts dont seem expensive at all from Europart.

Has anyone ever replaced the water pump on the 2.0i N46 engine? any guidance?
 
synthedup said:
The parts dont seem expensive at all from Europart.

Has anyone ever replaced the water pump on the 2.0i N46 engine? any guidance?

Hi, you need to find out what pump your engine has, the electronic version is over £500 on that site! If you have the mechanical one I doubt the car would have the fan issue immediately on starting :thumbsup:
Rob
 
The waterpump won't be the cause on the 2.0 engine. Have you had a code read, as there are a couple of possible causes.

Mike
 
Ducklakeview said:
The waterpump won't be the cause on the 2.0 engine. Have you had a code read, as there are a couple of possible causes.

Mike

Hi again :)

Im not sure if there are any codes so off to the garage tomorrow.

I have an ongoing issue with the oil level sensor so the check engine light has been on for a few days anyway ( i need to get the code so i can post it on here for further help)

I will keep you all posted :)

Out of interest what are the possible causes?
 
Ducklakeview said:
The waterpump won't be the cause on the 2.0 engine. Have you had a code read, as there are a couple of possible causes.

Mike

My bad, just going on my n52 experience :oops:
Rob
 
Ducklakeview said:
The waterpump won't be the cause on the 2.0 engine. Have you had a code read, as there are a couple of possible causes.

Mike

So I have done a little googling and I think it may be the radiator outlet temp sensor causing the radiator to come on.

I have unplugged the sensor and the fan stops, reading online this indicates the sensor is faulty.

I have plugged the sensor back in and it seems to have fixed the problem for now. I assume unplugging it and plugging it in again has 'reset' something (for now)

I'm going to get the codes read but hoping this is all it is. a cheap fix :)
 
Ducklakeview said:
The waterpump won't be the cause on the 2.0 engine. Have you had a code read, as there are a couple of possible causes.

Mike


Hi guy,

So I am getting two codes currently:

2F17 - forced switch electronic transmission control (EGS)

2F9E - terminal oil level sensor.

I have had two new sensors fitted this month thinking the first replacement was faulty.

Any help?

Thanks!!
 
I’m reading online the 2F17 - forced switch electronic transmission control (EGS) is related to an automatic car?? Mine is a manual so very strange..
 
You need to clear the codes and see if they come back. They could be old ones knowing you have had sensors replaced recently.
 
srhutch said:
You need to clear the codes and see if they come back. They could be old ones knowing you have had sensors replaced recently.


Morning srhutch,


Since replacing the sensors all codes have been cleared and these have come back.

Just drove to the train station and the fan was on full again from the start :(
 
Remove the plastic cover at the front with the BMW logo on it. Underneath you'll see the power connector for the fan, it has two thick wires and a VERY fine green one. This is the speed sense signal from the fan back to the ECU. I have had a couple of cars where this has rotted away just near the connector, meaning the ECU doesn't get confirmation of the fan speed. This could be causing it to run the fan at max as a failsafe. I've had to dig into the connector and extend the green wire a little before soldering it back to the terminal.

Worth a look?

Mike
 
Ducklakeview said:
Remove the plastic cover at the front with the BMW logo on it. Underneath you'll see the power connector for the fan, it has two thick wires and a VERY fine green one. This is the speed sense signal from the fan back to the ECU. I have had a couple of cars where this has rotted away just near the connector, meaning the ECU doesn't get confirmation of the fan speed. This could be causing it to run the fan at max as a failsafe. I've had to dig into the connector and extend the green wire a little before soldering it back to the terminal.

Worth a look?

Mike


Thanks Mike,

Really appreciate that. I will take a look this evening :)
 
Ducklakeview said:
Remove the plastic cover at the front with the BMW logo on it. Underneath you'll see the power connector for the fan, it has two thick wires and a VERY fine green one. This is the speed sense signal from the fan back to the ECU. I have had a couple of cars where this has rotted away just near the connector, meaning the ECU doesn't get confirmation of the fan speed. This could be causing it to run the fan at max as a failsafe. I've had to dig into the connector and extend the green wire a little before soldering it back to the terminal.

Worth a look?

Mike


Had a good look yesterday and all wires and connections look really good. No lose wires etc :(
 
synthedup said:
Had a good look yesterday and all wires and connections look really good. No lose wires etc :(

Hmm.. Can you get access to the diagnostic kit, I'd be trying the actuations, to make sure the ECU has "full" control of the fan, and going from there.

Mike
 
Back
Top Bottom