AndyBeech said:BMWZ4MC said:AndyBeech said:What was the mileage?
Can only imagine that could happen with a lack of oil, oil pump fail or something of the like? Certainly doesn't sound normal!
The followers wear due to inadequate case hardening as opposed to being a direct consequence of a lack of lubrication. If ignored, this leads to a consequential wear of the cam lobes. Schrick sell BMW followers with additional case hardening which (they claim) prevents the problem.
There has been much speculation that the problem affects only cars that have been thrashed from cold or tracked, or that it is a result of incompetently adjusted followers, but there's no evidence that any of this is true and the problem is surprisingly common amongst Z4Ms and E46 M3s.
But a failure of nearly all of them and the bottom end as well? If it was purely the case hardening then nearly everyone with an S54 would have to replace them at some point and that doesn't appear to be the case so...logically something else must be going on?
You say common but...I've spoken to a few independent specialists in the S54 world and from what I've been told I wouldn't say it's common, depending on you're definition of the term.
As the old saying goes, you only hear about the one's that have problems, not the many that don't.
Beedub said:jeeezzzzzzzz the flat spot on that follower is insane.... These are seriously tough material as well, the cam lobe must have been worn off! Also agree with your comments totally.
AndyBeech said:But a failure of nearly all of them and the bottom end as well?
MrPT said:After some investigative work, I'm pretty sure mine was caused by skipped valve clearance adjustments during Insp II (not while under forum ownership but I know the indie quite well).
Beedub said:firebobby said:Why did BMW build such a fickle engine, reminds me of the Triumph Stag in the early years. These engine issues and the sky high road tax just don't appeal to me on the M cars.
please don't come in here talking shite. These are very robust motors, and have no less issues than the next performance engines.... We are talking decade old engines and most have seen the rev limit a good few times, as thats what ///M made it to do....
On the case of the solid top end, ferrari...used the same tech in the f12 TDF now a million quid car, and Porsche has just used it in the latest GT3........ its race derived stuff and things go wrong....
like a wrecking ball, love itBMWZ4MC said:I doubt that alone would be enough to cause such marked failure.
I think there was a design issue with the followers (hence the Schrick modification). Perhaps there were good and bad batches or perhaps there is an inherent predisposition to accelerated wear in all and in some engines another factor precipitates failure.
NOT FUNNY, I cried myself to sleep last night after such an unneeded attack :roll:dannytheduck1985 said:Beedub said:firebobby said:Why did BMW build such a fickle engine, reminds me of the Triumph Stag in the early years. These engine issues and the sky high road tax just don't appeal to me on the M cars.
please don't come in here talking shite. These are very robust motors, and have no less issues than the next performance engines.... We are talking decade old engines and most have seen the rev limit a good few times, as thats what ///M made it to do....
On the case of the solid top end, ferrari...used the same tech in the f12 TDF now a million quid car, and Porsche has just used it in the latest GT3........ its race derived stuff and things go wrong....
Sorry but first linelike a wrecking ball, love it
Just to clarify this for anybody that's interested. Clearances were in spec but not adjusted back to the middle of the acceptable range (or slightly north of it). This is in line with BMW guidelines, but probably not something that should be skipped, given what we now know about these engines. To me it doesn't make sense to skip it, once you already have the lid off.
ph001 said:In fact I found that checking them first thing in the morning (7'C) and then again in the middle of the afternoon (approx 18'C) is enough to move them from the centre to the end of the specified range. The window really is that small which is why BMW state that it must be done at a specific workshop temperature (20'C IIRC). Given they then run at 90'C during normal operation you can extrapolate that the design margin must be pretty large.
firebobby said:Why did BMW build such a fickle engine, reminds me of the Triumph Stag in the early years. These engine issues and the sky high road tax just don't appeal to me on the M cars.
Fishy Dave said:firebobby said:Why did BMW build such a fickle engine, reminds me of the Triumph Stag in the early years. These engine issues and the sky high road tax just don't appeal to me on the M cars.
I'll bite too :evil:
I agree about the road tax :thumbsdown:
The engine however is superb, I see them raced every month in E46 M3 with no engine failures that I can remember in the last 5 years (30 min qually and 40 minute races). Most of them have standard internals save for rod bolts (ARP) and bearing shells every year or two years as a precaution. These are race winning cars. I compare this with most other makes and models that race at the front of the grids and most have to uprate crank, rods, pistons, cams and more and even then they break.
It's impossible to know what percentage of Z4M have worn their engines sufficient that replacement parts were needed but I have a strong opinion that it is considerably less than the equivalent Porsche engine. When the followers or bearing shells have needed replacement at least they haven't damaged the block or head in the process.
For a road car engine producing more than 100bhp per litre, revving to 8000rpm with a wide range of care and treatment I think they are pretty tough.
Just IMO, will take you for a spin in mine next time we meet![]()
Spaniarduk said:Hello [ref]ph001[/ref], or anyone who's done the Valve clearance check and shim replacement themselves.
1. Is it really as complex to do as many (including BMW) make out to be?
Not complex at all as mentioned above
2. What special tools to you need, apart from the plastic tool with the magnet to remove the old and deposot the new shims in place?
You’ll ideally need the correct tool for the throttle body circlips. I made one by grinding an old crimp tool. You don’t need a special plastic tool with magnet, the shims come out very easily with just a magnetic screwdriver etc
3. Where do you source the replacement shims from? Any specific brand? Retailer? OEM BMW?
Yes, bmw oem.
4. Is it possible to purchase individual shims in the required thicknesses?
Yes, all available separately.
Thanks in advanced.