Factory Stereo HU replacement

[NeilP]

Well, how do you want to setup the system? Do you want to retain the 'rear' (the mids behind the seat) speakers? If so, then you need a 3-way crossover. If not, then a 2-way will work.

for the hassle, the retention of the rear mid wouldn't have much of a point given the limited potential of the driver.

as for my testing with the rear speakers I'll be attempting to achieve a punchy midbass response from my install, there is no intention for sub bass (I interchange a 10w7 and two 8w3's to take care of the sub bass frequencies)

Personally to the OP, you're better off rewiring the car. If it was myself on a budget, I would have a pair of 6.5 2 way components up front (run from the headunit bypassing all OEM wiring)

I would also specifically choose a pioneer headunit with the Direct Sub Drive technology and specifically a pair of Hybrid Audio i6SW for the subwoofers

This set up wouldn't require the need for additional amplifiers or the such however will allow the potential for a great affordable sysem that will sound great.

Johnny - Sure adding an amplifier would really do the system a word of a difference but it's not something that is essential if trying to keep things simple and cost effective. In lay terms an amplifier will increase headroom for the power sent to your speakers, resulting is more clean (undistorted) power sent to the speakers.

Personally, I would have an amplifier, a 3 or 4 channel. 1 and 2 for a pair of components and channels 3 and 4 bridged for two subwoofers run in mono channel (as some amplifiers are able to increase their power output when bridged)

 

[v8z4]

No sweat on the 'dumb' questions.

I'm not sure of a good way to run all 10 speakers off the HU.

The fronts would need a 3 way crossover (not a lot of those out there). While a decent head unit can drive speakers 'relatively' loud, I do not know how well it will do driving 6 speakers (the entire front channel). You would certainly have to play with the fade option (push it forward) to balance out the front/rear (the rear would otherwise play MUCH louder than the front). Without a "5th" channel, you don't have a way to drive the factory subs (because the head unit only have 4 channels: Front-Right, Front-Left, Rear-Right, Rear-Left).

If you want to keep all the speakers, I think you will be forced to find some sort of small amp just to get enough channels. You COULD power the front and rears off the head unit, then run the subs on a small 1 channel amp (though I would go with a 5 channel and be done with it).

 

[v8z4]

Well, how do you want to setup the system? Do you want to retain the 'rear' (the mids behind the seat) speakers? If so, then you need a 3-way crossover. If not, then a 2-way will work.

for the hassle, the retention of the rear mid wouldn't have much of a point given the limited potential of the driver.

as for my testing with the rear speakers I'll be attempting to achieve a punchy midbass response from my install, there is no intention for sub bass (I interchange a 10w7 and two 8w3's to take care of the sub bass frequencies)

Personally to the OP, you're better off rewiring the car. If it was myself on a budget, I would have a pair of 6.5 2 way components up front (run from the headunit bypassing all OEM wiring)

I would also specifically choose a pioneer headunit with the Direct Sub Drive technology and specifically a pair of Hybrid Audio i6SW for the subwoofers

This set up wouldn't require the need for additional amplifiers or the such however will allow the potential for a great affordable sysem that will sound great.

Johnny - Sure adding an amplifier would really do the system a word of a difference but it's not something that is essential if trying to keep things simple and cost effective. In lay terms an amplifier will increase headroom for the power sent to your speakers, resulting is more clean (undistorted) power sent to the speakers.

Personally, I would have an amplifier, a 3 or 4 channel. 1 and 2 for a pair of components and channels 3 and 4 bridged for two subwoofers run in mono channel (as some amplifiers are able to increase their power output when bridged)

I agree with this overall assessment (I can't speak on the specifics of the components mentioned but they sound reasonable).

How are you doing the 6.5s? I assume the tweeter is still in the door tweeter pod. Are you installing the 6.5 driver in the kicks or are you moving them into the door?

I was thinking about it last night and I don't know why everyone says that it is pointless to put subs in the trunk of the roadster. How is the roadster any different than any other car? Particularly if a person drilled a port hole through the back of the old "sub cavities" to make a clear path for sound waves to move from the trunk.

 

[NeilP]

3 way crossovers would be ridiculously inefficient given that you're planning on, more or less using a subwoofer as one of the drivers.

as a minimum, bi amping is required with subwoofers in my opinion.

the 6.5" would be as I have done in my zed, woofers in the kicks, 1" tweeter up top (though I've gone down the route of running my set up active)

separation isn't too bad relatively speaking, the tweeters are at a nice location to really bring the sound stage up high (my only complaint is they're a little too close, however this can be fixed with some time delaying...something i'll be playing following the end of my exams)

whilst there is no issue with a subwoofer in the boot, the issue is (from what I've gathered) that the rear wall is structurally integral to the car, would I want a hole in there of any kind aside from what is already there? A firm no.

Another option would be to go down the route of a slim subwoofer. given the mention of good quality audio brands currently mentioned, some here will be well aware of JL Audio's TW5 and their new TW3 line of slim woofers. Would be perfect behind the seat.

 

[v8z4]

3 way crossovers would be ridiculously inefficient given that you're planning on, more or less using a subwoofer as one of the drivers.

as a minimum, bi amping is required with subwoofers in my opinion.

the 6.5" would be as I have done in my zed, woofers in the kicks, 1" tweeter up top (though I've gone down the route of running my set up active)

separation isn't too bad relatively speaking, the tweeters are at a nice location to really bring the sound stage up high (my only complaint is they're a little too close, however this can be fixed with some time delaying...something i'll be playing following the end of my exams)

whilst there is no issue with a subwoofer in the boot, the issue is (from what I've gathered) that the rear wall is structurally integral to the car, would I want a hole in there of any kind aside from what is already there? A firm no.

Another option would be to go down the route of a slim subwoofer. given the mention of good quality audio brands currently mentioned, some here will be well aware of JL Audio's TW5 and their new TW3 line of slim woofers. Would be perfect behind the seat.

I don't see the hole being a significant issue. Provided the hole is not very large (4-6" diameter), it should not really impact stiffness. Racers drill holes in all kinds of things to remove weight without a noticeable impact in rigidity.

So you are saying just drop a small box behind the drivers and/or passengers seat?

 

[NeilP]

Well if you were willing to cut a hole of some kind in then a 4th order bandpass enclosure with an 8" would really hit hard (provided the right woofer is used and fed sufficient power)

I'd still be skeptical regarding the structural integrity given that the racers will supplement rigidity with roll cages and such, however this isn't an area that I've paid any particular attention to so I'm only going by what I know.

Yes, essentially, it may not be that pretty having a box behind the seat, for the most part it won't be seen anyway only heard.

Having learnt from past mistakes with audio systems (i've wasted so much time/money on different set ups) I'd be more inclined to have a system that keeps the car looking OEM and can be reverted back to OE spec should the need arise.

If one were to have two 6" subs they're not really going to do a whole lot if moving to another car (yes with the right enclosure a 6.5" woofer can sound far "bigger") but generally speaking, assuming a few factors, it's easier to get more from a larger sized woofer (my personal preference would be 2x 8" or 1 x 10" subs...which have yield the best results given my requirements)

 

[un1eash]

theres no market for a z4 stealth box esp given how little bass would theoretically travel from the boot to the cabin in a roadster.

Using 6.5" subs can be hit and miss, it's mainly down to installation and tuning...people feel that you just set a crossover point, set the gain and its done.

I'm now going to be experimenting with the rear speakers. There is a nice amount of space behind there for a decent enclosure, so adding a lot of deadener to the inside and the right set up might give half decent results. (bear in mind I'm doing this to a coupe, so there's less 'wasted' energy so to speak'.

You can get plenty of bass into the cab on a roadster as the only thing sperating you from the boot is the adjustable boot tray. I use to run 2 12" subs in my roadster which i later switched out to a JL 10w6v2.

 

[NeilP]

un1eash, so the boot isn't entirely sealed off?

That's interesting to know. Slim subs then are a no brainer in the boot!

Also love the choice of product!

What mids and highs/headunit are you running?

 

[bcworkz]

You can get plenty of bass into the cab on a roadster as the only thing sperating you from the boot is the adjustable boot tray.

Exactly! Enough wide spectrum road noise gets through this way, so bass should have no trouble at all. If you really are bent on cutting holes in your car's structure anyway, whether it makes a difference or not depends largely on where it is. If you just remove flat sheet metal, you're probably OK. If you cut out seams, folds, rolls, double thickness areas, etc., you are a fool.

 

[un1eash]

I dont have the car anymore but i was running an Alpine CDA-9886R, PXA-H100 Processor, JL TR650Csi 2 way Comps, JL 300/2 + JL 500/1 Amps, JL 10w6v2 Subwoofer and was Imprinted using the processor. I left the rears alone as my car only had the 6 speaker system to start with. I put the same setup in my 350Z but that's gone also now.

It sounded great and was just what i wanted. The w6 has plenty of punch and the imprint does wonders to the sound. I actually removed the parcel shelf as it rattled too much.

 

[NeilP]

Unfortunately I've not really had the chance to play around with the imprint system as much as I would have liked to, but lovely equipment selection!

I've always wanted a 10w6 in a sealed enclosure (probably the only woofer I'd be happy with sealed as well!)

 

[un1eash]

I had the box made to the jl specs for a ported box and it fitted perfect under the parcel shelf. To get it in the 350 and under the rear strut i had to make the box smaller and sealed.

 

[v8z4]

un1eash, so the boot isn't entirely sealed off?

That's interesting to know. Slim subs then are a no brainer in the boot!

Also love the choice of product!

What mids and highs/headunit are you running?

No, the "boot" (trunk ) is not entirely sealed off. The convertible top folds down on top of a plastic panel, however there is no metal in that location. I removed this plastic panel when I installed my amp (I just tossed the panel completely) and now when my top is up, I can reach directly over and into my trunk (sorry sorry... "boot" ).