Attleborough, Norfolk
enuff_zed said:
OP, originally before you swapped anything (wheel or tyre) were you experiencing any issues?
I say this because I've remembered you're on a square set up. So I believe when the "old" tyres were put on the new alloys the positions have been changed. So you could have a front tyre on the rear alloy, vice versa. This could be causing the problems. As per the above, I'm not so sure the tyres have worn unevenly, just not been put back from the corner they were taken. It's important on the Zed to keep tyres on a particular corner, the swapping wheels thing to improve wear doesn't really apply to us.
If your wheels/ tyres are same back and front, it might be worth swapping front to rear.
In the past on Two occasions mine has suffered from tramlining and on doth occasions the simple swap of front to rear cured the problem.(keeping them running is same direction)
I would also agree that spacers tend to make it more susceptible to tramlining, I run 15mm front 20mm rear, does not cause tramlining but is more sensitive to road camber.
Good luck, hope you get it sorted without wasting cash on issues that may not in fact need resolving.
In the past on Two occasions mine has suffered from tramlining and on doth occasions the simple swap of front to rear cured the problem.(keeping them running is same direction)
I would also agree that spacers tend to make it more susceptible to tramlining, I run 15mm front 20mm rear, does not cause tramlining but is more sensitive to road camber.
Good luck, hope you get it sorted without wasting cash on issues that may not in fact need resolving.
I had my E89 done here http://www.atec-align.co.uk/what-to-expect-with-a-four-wheel-alignment/
As you will see from the page it states “ Weight a car for measurement, where specified by the manufacturer.” He did weight mine so I guess it is required on our cars.
As you will see from the page it states “ Weight a car for measurement, where specified by the manufacturer.” He did weight mine so I guess it is required on our cars.
Have the shock absorbers ever been replaced and what mileage is the car on?
My Current E85 is on Eibach lowering springs, Bilstein B8’s and Z4M style 224 wheels, so it’s low with a wide track and it’s very planted. It needs a very ‘rutted’ road to do anything other than maintain forward momentum with absolutely minimal steering input. It also brakes sharply in a straight line.
The chap who bought my previous E86 is on the same suspension set up and wheels! That car doesn’t tramline now either. It did when I sold it to him, which I was completely open about and was one of the things I had planned to address if I’d kept it... but it’s now sorted.
Not saying it’s the case for your car, but a knackered shock absorber with no rebound is going to drastically affect road manners. Can’t remember how old your car it, but it’s at least 10 yrs old I’d have thought?
Just a thought.
My Current E85 is on Eibach lowering springs, Bilstein B8’s and Z4M style 224 wheels, so it’s low with a wide track and it’s very planted. It needs a very ‘rutted’ road to do anything other than maintain forward momentum with absolutely minimal steering input. It also brakes sharply in a straight line.
The chap who bought my previous E86 is on the same suspension set up and wheels! That car doesn’t tramline now either. It did when I sold it to him, which I was completely open about and was one of the things I had planned to address if I’d kept it... but it’s now sorted.
Not saying it’s the case for your car, but a knackered shock absorber with no rebound is going to drastically affect road manners. Can’t remember how old your car it, but it’s at least 10 yrs old I’d have thought?
Just a thought.
North West Surrey
n1cecupoftea said:
That's interesting. What I forgot to mention was that my Z4 and 1 Series both tramlined most on roads with deep "ruts" from heavy HGV use, or on joints in the road surface that were almost parallel to the direction of travel - like on the concrete section of the M25.
You're right about the sound of the N52 as well - a previous owner of mine had a custom cat-back system fitted and it's great.
skelters said:Might be worth going through some of the threads and many, many, many polls that Marlon posted to see if there's any suspension changes.
You could of course just PM him unless he's above all this now with his Volkswagen.
No suspension changes during my ownership - rear springs replaced by previous owner(p.s. my 997 gen1 was the last model built and owned entirely by Porsche :wink: )
Smartbear said:
I agree with Rob. With spacers fitted (F15 R20) on standard wheels mine was noticably worse to drive. Shame as they do look better. The tramlining was also amplified. Google scrub radius for an explanation of the root cause on the front and extending the suspension lever point on both the front and particularly the rear doesn't help either as it reduces the effectiveness of the springs/shocks.
When I got my car ten years ago it had epic and dangerous tramlining on it's original worn runflats, a change to Falkens and a 4 wheel alignment cured it. A few years later I swapped to staggered 18's with Goodyear Eagles and tramlining was back. I then spent 12 months going through new rear springs, lots of bushes including lollypops and anti-roll bars, track rod ends etc which got rid of most of it. Finally got it sorted with a competent 4 wheel alignment by someone who understood that it's no use using factory settings on a car which has been changed from it's factory, wheels, tyres, springs and bushes. It now runs true with no wiggle even on inside lane canyons or greasy white lines.
Having done a LOT of reading during all this I came to the conclusion that 50% of the issue is tyre construction and tread pattern. A piece I found and posted a while ago explained that the stiffer the tyre and more 'square' the edge profile the more likely it is to sit in ruts and lines and not climb out, which makes sense. Supported by my experience with Falkens, which were quite forgiving and have a rounded edge profile and were fine, and Eagles that are stiffer and square edged. So it's worth considering the edge profile when choosing tyres and getting a really competent 4 wheel alignment.
Having done a LOT of reading during all this I came to the conclusion that 50% of the issue is tyre construction and tread pattern. A piece I found and posted a while ago explained that the stiffer the tyre and more 'square' the edge profile the more likely it is to sit in ruts and lines and not climb out, which makes sense. Supported by my experience with Falkens, which were quite forgiving and have a rounded edge profile and were fine, and Eagles that are stiffer and square edged. So it's worth considering the edge profile when choosing tyres and getting a really competent 4 wheel alignment.