Tyne and Wear
Just tested the starter, pretty sure it’s working great as it moves in and out and spins aggressively. Not too sure what to check next?
EWS3 - No start / no crank - AK90 write fails
- Thread starter Z4OnABudget
- Start date
Attleborough, Norfolk
Refit it and clean all the connections then check it again. May work?
If not I think my next step would be to swap the ignition switch on the other side from the key barrel.
So to confirm:
- starter seems good
- key moves to ignition position 3
- still no signs of a crank
If you have BMW diagnostic software, I think it'll show you if it's meant to be cranking etc. My campervan did this, and the Mercedes software told me it was getting start authorisation from the ECU, so I knew the issue was with the starter, and not the ECU/immobiliser - see if you can find the same thing with the BMW software. (I hit mine with a hammer and it has been fine since.)
Some thoughts that spring to mind that I haven't seen mentioned:
Try jump starting it, just to rule out battery after standing (despite what the voltage shows)
Is it an auto? Does it know it's in park?
Have you checked for 12v at the wiring to the starter motor?
I don't know if there is a starter relay on these, but if there is, try jumping it to see if the starter fires.
Have you tried bypassing the EWS to see if it'll crank? (I'm at work, so you'll need to do more research into this route: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/...s-)-the-EWS-to-activate-the-starter-on-a-swap )
- starter seems good
- key moves to ignition position 3
- still no signs of a crank
If you have BMW diagnostic software, I think it'll show you if it's meant to be cranking etc. My campervan did this, and the Mercedes software told me it was getting start authorisation from the ECU, so I knew the issue was with the starter, and not the ECU/immobiliser - see if you can find the same thing with the BMW software. (I hit mine with a hammer and it has been fine since.)
Some thoughts that spring to mind that I haven't seen mentioned:
Try jump starting it, just to rule out battery after standing (despite what the voltage shows)
Is it an auto? Does it know it's in park?
Have you checked for 12v at the wiring to the starter motor?
I don't know if there is a starter relay on these, but if there is, try jumping it to see if the starter fires.
Have you tried bypassing the EWS to see if it'll crank? (I'm at work, so you'll need to do more research into this route: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/...s-)-the-EWS-to-activate-the-starter-on-a-swap )
@Street much appreciated, I’m in NE9, I’ll give a couple other things mentioned a go, then if I get stuck a hand with ISTA would be great!
Will give the connections a good clean and refit then try jumping directly on the starter which surely should work now I know the starter functions…
It’s a manual, I haven’t checked voltage at the starter but have had the battery on a jumper when testing various things.
I tried the 30a fuse trick in the ews plug but no luck.
Will give the connections a good clean and refit then try jumping directly on the starter which surely should work now I know the starter functions…
It’s a manual, I haven’t checked voltage at the starter but have had the battery on a jumper when testing various things.
I tried the 30a fuse trick in the ews plug but no luck.
Hi all, much appreciated for all the help, the issue was indeed the ignition.
I’d sent the column off for torque sensor repair and the ignition came back removed from the column and it appears to have been damaged, now the column is back in the car I’ve been greeted by the dreaded torque sensor fault straight away… it appears the column has not been fixed at all.
I was due to leave for the south of france in a couple weeks but it looks like that’s going to be canned
I’d sent the column off for torque sensor repair and the ignition came back removed from the column and it appears to have been damaged, now the column is back in the car I’ve been greeted by the dreaded torque sensor fault straight away… it appears the column has not been fixed at all.
I was due to leave for the south of france in a couple weeks but it looks like that’s going to be canned
Glad you've got a result for the non start issue.
Glad it was a cheap and easy outcome for the non start issue.
Not glad about the column repair being bad!
Not much more annoying that trusting/paying for a service, only to be let down.
Maybe you can get a complete column to swap in off eBay so you can still do your trip? You know now how to swap the ignition barrel over to the replacement, after all...
Glad it was a cheap and easy outcome for the non start issue.
Not glad about the column repair being bad!
Not much more annoying that trusting/paying for a service, only to be let down.
Maybe you can get a complete column to swap in off eBay so you can still do your trip? You know now how to swap the ignition barrel over to the replacement, after all...
Glad you’ve found the issue but you could have saved a lot of time if you’d thought to mention that the column had been out!
That would immediately have led to suggestions centred around that.
Lesson learned: provide the full facts or we are all just guessing.
That would immediately have led to suggestions centred around that.
Lesson learned: provide the full facts or we are all just guessing.
In terms of a used column is it a case of transferring the motor and barrel over or is there some sort of coding required etc?
Thanks
Honestly, I couldn't tell you for the steering electronics.
For the ignition, as long as it's your barrel, it'll be fine.
The immobiliser system essentially:
- needs the correct key to turn the barrel/ignition switch
- the barrel has a reader on it, which reads the chip in the key
- this chip in the key then needs to be accepted by the EWS
- the EWS and engine ECU/DME need to be synced to allow the car to start.
So swapping your ignition barrel into the new column will allow the key to turn the ignition switch, and the other parts of the immobiliser will remain unchanged.
For the ignition, as long as it's your barrel, it'll be fine.
The immobiliser system essentially:
- needs the correct key to turn the barrel/ignition switch
- the barrel has a reader on it, which reads the chip in the key
- this chip in the key then needs to be accepted by the EWS
- the EWS and engine ECU/DME need to be synced to allow the car to start.
So swapping your ignition barrel into the new column will allow the key to turn the ignition switch, and the other parts of the immobiliser will remain unchanged.