EWS3 - No start / no crank - AK90 write fails

I’ll give it a whack and see what happens.

Also, when I turn the key to position two the key physically won’t turn to start the car, not sure if a bad starter would cause this but it almost seems like the car is preventing the key from turning?
 
IMG_1330.jpeg

Stupid question but is the red cable the power I need to connect to? I’ve attached power to that and ground to the engine brace but can’t hear anything from the motor
 
Can you bump start it to rule out the EWS?

Sounds like an ignition switch issue to me if it doesn't let you turn to position 3

If you remove the ignition barrel, can you turn it to position 3 out of the car? Likewise, can you use a screwdriver to turn the ignition switch left in the steering column?

If you remove the barrel, insert the key, and then try to turn the part in the steering column, if it starts, you know the EWS and starter are all ok, and it's just a faulty barrel

1785843067431.png
 
Unfortunately I can’t bump start it where the car is.

I’ve just tried hitting the starter, giving it power (I think - see picture) and removed the barrel, I think the barrel is turning correctly when it’s fitted.
 
Z4OnABudget said:
View attachment 298292

Stupid question but is the red cable the power I need to connect to? I’ve attached power to that and ground to the engine brace but can’t hear anything from the motor
Click to expand...
The thick red cable is the main power but it needs a 12 volt supply to activate the solenoid to engage it, possibly the black cable just below, I’m sure bigwig or enuf_zed will confirm.
 
Z4OnABudget said:
I’ll give it a whack and see what happens.

Also, when I turn the key to position two the key physically won’t turn to start the car, not sure if a bad starter would cause this but it almost seems like the car is preventing the key from turning?
Click to expand...
Ah you didn’t mention that!
Sounds like you need a new ignition switch?
 
The key does turn past position two but it’s just a slight turn but I think that’s normal after taking out the barrel.

Just checked the steering lock incase I was being stupid but no it’s definitely off
 
Z4OnABudget said:
The key does turn past position two but it’s just a slight turn but I think that’s normal after taking out the barrel.

Just checked the steering lock incase I was being stupid but no it’s definitely off
Click to expand...
Okay……
Definitely concentrate on the starter now then.
Chippie said:
The thick red cable is the main power but it needs a 12 volt supply to activate the solenoid to engage it, possibly the black cable just below, I’m sure bigwig or enuf_zed will confirm.
Click to expand...
Yes, power won’t flow to the starter motor until the solenoid is fully extended to engage the pinion gear. If the solenoid does engage and the battery doesn’t have enough charge to turn the motor then the solenoid will fall back and try again all the time the key is turned, giving the characteristic chattering noise. If there is no sound at all (and assuming the ignition switch is working) then it implies the solenoid itself is sticking.
 
Do I need to do anything other than connect the jumper to power / ground? When I googled some people were bridging the gap between the solenoid and power? With a screwdriver
 
Z4OnABudget said:
Do I need to do anything other than connect the jumper to power / ground? When I googled some people were bridging the gap between the solenoid and power? With a screwdriver
Click to expand...
If you start by just connecting the solenoid to power and earth then you should hear it clicking. If it does then you can try applying power to the motor at the same time. If it doesn’t then no point going any further. With power on the solenoid you can whack it to see if it will then move.
 
Z4OnABudget said:
Will have a go after work.

Think it’s likely that the starter has s**t itself when the car’s been sitting?
Click to expand...
They do tend to just stop. If you take the end cap off you may find that the brushes are buried in carbon debris. If this gets damp it is enough to stop everything from spinning.
 
enuff_zed said:
@bigwinn didn’t we find before that if the EWS disagrees with the DME it still lets the engine turn over, just not start?
Just checking that the wording of the question hasn’t led to overlooking the possibility of it being the starter?

In fact, we don’t even know at this point if the battery is fully charged? Had one last week reading 11.8v that wouldn’t turn the engine over.
Click to expand...
I can confirm that this is true.
I get 27a4 code occasionally which allows the car to crank but not start.
I believe the ews stops the fuel injectors and spark
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom