Long Post warning ! I thought I would upload a "short" report of our recent road trip through Germany, Switzerland etc. discussed in another thread but better belongs in Road Trip section. Stay awake now - a short test will follow:
JaxZ4 - Euro Trip Report June 2012
Day 2 Ijmuiden Ferry Port to Stuttgart
Our third time In Netherlands but first time driving and getting on the right route from the terminal with help from TomTom is pretty simple. I’ve been warned that speeding fines & penalties in Netherlands and particularly Switzerland can be harsh and given some history I’m committed to observing motorway limits within reason (generally 120kph ). The TomTom feature of showing the limit relevant to the road your on is an invaluable little tool that we use constantly as motorway and particularly autobahn limits change frequently often with little warning, though you soon begin to understand and predict where they will drop.
After what seems like no time at all we’re on a slightly narrower 2 lane section, when an AMG Merc flies past – heck we’re in Germany, we can GLF and Tom Tom confirms by showing no limit now. It’s genuinely narrow for 2 lanes with just a modest hard shoulder so takes a little acclimatization and concentration.
The 3.0 Zed with 231bhp is by some margin not the most powerful vehicle on these roads and it does seem that it’s usually an Audi, Merc or BMW appearing in the rear view, hinting that he can probably climb this hill quicker than you so I do pull in, as is the etiquette. Cruising (legally !) at around 125 mph quickly becomes routine and I’m delighted and impressed that my 8 year old zed seems utterly solid at speeds that, honest gov, I’ve never seen in the UK. Feeling I’m almost flatout with limited room ahead on a slight left hand bend I’m obliged to pull in at an indicated 130mph to allow another b*oody Merc pass and an Audi or two – I confess to wishing on a few occasions that I had my own daily drive, a V6T Audi S4 Avant (333bhp) when I’m pretty sure we would have hit 150 or so. In this company the zed feels a little small and slightly intimidated by the big boys and of course the roof is up, though we later have some short spells with it down at around 100mph or so.
Mrs jax takes over driving for the final run into Stuttgart and we easily find the Holiday Inn Express, watch Germany v Portugal in the bar/restaurant. Being Scottish it’s easy to be neutral. Food, room, breakfast etc. all just fine for a one night stop.
Day 3
Stuttgart – Porsche Museum
Like many I have always admired Porsche and I guess now I feel I want a 911 sometime. The museum is fabulous and easily the best of the three we visit.
There’s an enticing range of both historic and modern examples with good brief history and a decent audio guide. The coffee is excellent too and we buy the some obligatory souvenirs. I was surprised to find the new blue Boxster and the grey one with the red roof, in the parking garage just so attractive and once sat in the 911 Carrera available to the public it does fit and feel well……..so IF I traded in both the S4 and the Z4 and bought a cheaper diesel Audi then maybe, just maybe . . . but the Porsche forum I’m sure would be a poor alternative.
The drive up to Davos gets increasingly interesting once we leave the dizzy autobahn speeds and start climbing towards St Moritz etc. in showery conditions, roof up, lots of road works but fine scenery.
The Davos Sheraton, our base for 2 days is excellent though a rather expensive indulgence. We use the spa, sauna and pool and have a late dinner, watch more football and sleep like a kid at Christmas …. i.e. not much – it’s Stelvio tomorrow.
Day 4 – Fluella, Stelvio, Bernina & more
The day of the passes, starts with rain, dark clouds, and a frustrating encounter with an unmanned Davos petrol pump (though ultimately I score a bargain half tank for €20 !)
First pass of the day, Fluella is on the doorstep of Davos, which we tackle roof up in steady rain, climbing quickly and a little nervously hoping for improving conditions.
We elect not to drive through the Livigno tunnel knowing that another option will arise later and soon find ourselves tailing a rather usefully quick, pace setting Swiss Polizie Volvo, the driver of which I feel might know the pass rather better than this Alpine Pass virgin. He seems unperturbed by our presence, I keep a reasonable distance and try to recall how to switch off the Tom Tom Speed Camera / POI feature, confident that is the only Swiss motoring law I am breaking for now. Our uniformed friend stops soon in a hotel, meets another cop car and we’re sure they’re stopping for coffee and some fondue flirting with their female colleague.
We then spot a rather tasty 911 Carrera (997) and an Audi TT RS in a layby, we guess waiting for better weather for a similar attack as us. We stop a little later and bravely drop the roof, manage a few quick pics and they pass- quickly - never to be seen again.
At the suggestion of ultimatedrives.net I’ve chosen to attack the Stelvio from the National Park side where we still have the roof down. The drive through the park is nice and fairly quick though we fail to spot that classic shot of the Stelvio’s 48 Northern side hairpins - still not sure where that shot is taken from - so for a few miles we keep asking each other “are we on the Stelvio now ? ” we’ve easily rounded a dozen or so hairpins. A few months back a friend with a 3 series BMW confessed to me that he and his partner failed to find Stelvio !
We’re now certain we’re on it proper, it’s not really possible to attack it very fast now, 2nd or 3rd gear only and my SMG gearbox is in its’ element in manual sport mode, it’s crazy tight and now the roof is up again due to steady cold rain. Visibility round the hairpins is of course limited, so much more fun with the roof down when you can better see right round. There are a number of bikers, a few tasty cars, we spot a couple of Lotus (Loti ? ) Exige descending towards us – they’re tiny so limited risk of kissing door mirrors. We do get stuck behind a camper van and another car, the former miraculously manages to find a spot to kindly pull in to allow us to pass.
I feel I’m well in the groove now and more confident in accelerating as hard as possible out of each bend, the earlier anxious whimpers from mrs jax have settled a little and she returns to camera duties. With one battery failing, a camera swap ensues to maintain some video, whilst she manages to get some stills from the DSLR, some of sky, some of snow, wall and the occasional bit of windy road.
It’s snowing now quite steady (we hadn’t really bargained on snow though have came prepared for all weathers with most of our luggage back in Davos). The Zed and his new rear nicely scrubbed in Vreds is behaving impeccably and I make no apologies for keeping DSC firmly off (i.e full traction control active), this is no place for a heroic rear end slide - those walls are way too close and crunchy.
The 2757m summit approaches, I can smell the currywurtz stalls (but avoid) and we find possibly the best parking spot and hotel coffee stop right opposite the mock cycling award rostrum, where an Aussie guy who has just climbed from the other side in a recumbent bike is trying hard to get a bystander to take a decent pic of him -yes we should have helped but in our defence, we were across the snowy street, upstairs in a cozy coffee shop with a cappuccino and a (shared) apple struddle. Anyone who can climb the Stelvio on a cycle, recumbent or otherwise deserves every respect.
Descending the other side, where I’m sure the road surface has been freshly clay barred and many of the hairpins are utterly transparent we stop briefly at a T junction and make a change of plan as the route to the left looks delightful and we just need to take it. This proves a good choice as we descend further into the Italian valleys where the roof is down again the temperature rises from -1 at the top of the Stelvio to 25 degrees! Bizarre.
The journey towards Tribano is fabulous and we stop for ice cream just across the Swiss border, after the Swiss Border Guard quizzes us if we have anything to declare, other than our grins – I guess he realizes there’s little room for serious contraband in a little zed so nonchalantly waves us through. We leave soon not knowing the best drive of the day lies ahead. . .
Rising to the Bernina Pass (not to be confused with the San Bernardino, which lies too far to the west of our base at Davos for this trip) the sun is out, the roof still down and the scenery is gobsmackingly swiss chocolate box pretty and the surface proves grippy and smooth. There’s little traffic and a Swiss 5 series touring seems miffed at a top down tourist up his chuff but quickly concedes (video available) and we have an empty road ahead, clear views and the memories of the earlier Polizie Volvo distant. This is surely the best section of the day and we eventually catch up with a zesty little Audi A1 whose driver is happy to similarly press on.
Ultimately we descend from Bernina – this road feels truly like a Scottish forum run, wide, flowing, traffic free but alas no fish ‘n chips. Our little TomTom XL makes one of only two mistakes in the entire trip and takes us on a short detour of a very picturesque village (Maragls we think), the respite offering a rather welcome breather, we loop back and we’re back en route to St.Moritz / Davos and the Fluella Pass for the second time today. We’ve already dismissed the Livigno tunnel idea as we’ve driven through so many fabulous sounding tunnels today and over the last few days, many of which were much more fun than the regimented convoy that Livigno sounds. Sound clips are available somewhere.
It’s raining heavy again and the fog reduces visibility to Hammer Horror movie levels so we tiptoe up/down Fluella with all lights blazing and few other cars around - damn this Scottish like weather and our choice of a lollipop shaped route.
We’re weirdly grateful for the mixed conditions as they added a degree of drama to the day, not that the Stelvio cries out for much added drama. The final descent from Fluella improves as the fog lifts and of course I know this section so well now.
For dinner that night we walk out of our hotel, the Davos Sheraton, in heavy rain wearing shorts (as legs dry easier than jeans) and find one of just a few restaurants open for a slightly disappointing meal but some fabulous driving memories, both thinking if only today could have been a forum run and the fun and memories shared with some forum friends.
Tomorrow it’s Austria, Lichtenstein, the Silvrettestrasse and back into Germany and the Romantic Road . . . .
Day 4 – Objective - Silvrettastrasse
A fairly long drive is scheduled, from Davos to Fussen at the southern end of the German Romantic Road and our base for exploring Neuschwenstein Castle, the fabulous folly of the rather mad King Ludvig. We’ve earmarked a detour in order to drive the Silvrettastrasse, again as recommended by ultimatedrives.net I’m really hopeful for this and plan to stop for more photos realizing we didn’t stop enough yesterday. Sadly last nights’ heavy rain continues through Switzerland, Germany & Austria we’re later told. We eventually find the start of the Silvrettastrasse, heading through Lichtenstein, avoiding some Austrian motorways.
Aaaargh! - an official warning sign flashes that snow chains are required on the Silvrettastrasse. We stop, the rain does not, the fog is back and after a misjudged lay bye pot hole/puddle I’m convinced I’ve damaged something other than our by now fractious marital negotiations. A quick check reveals both are in reasonable order. After protracted debate, we sadly agree to abandon the Silvrettastrasse if only for poor visibility reasons, chains are not an available option though I doubt they would be necessary. This involves a short doubling back and more Austrian motorways, no matter we’ve paid for our vignette so are entirely legit but no derestricted sections here.
We’ve now been driving all day since 10am and the rain truly hasn’t stopped once, fair testament to the zed and the vreds that I’m never really troubled even at Swiss/Austrian motorway speeds.
We stop at the delightful German town of Fussen as planned and given the day we’ve had quickly agree to stop here for 2 nights rather than just one, thinking we’ll do an out and back on the Romantic Road. Our hotel is tricky to find as we’re sure we’re driving up a cobbled pedestrianized zone but it has partially sheltered parking where overnight, following some careful maneuvering the zed’s roof manages to dry fully, which is excellent as the next day the sun is shining and all is well again in the world.
We make the quoted 40 minute (actual 20) walk/climb up to Neuschwenstein castle for some much needed exercise, plus we have time to spare before our tour slot - the only permitted way to see the castle – budget on more time than you think. The castle is fun though much of the front is covered in scaffolding and builder’s bubble wrap for renovation, spoiling the best views !
That afternoon we spend the day driving north on the Romantic Road leaving the Alps behind us, as a stunning scenic backdrop. The landscape flattens somewhat though when we stop in the near deserted but fair sized market town of Schwangau where we’re taken aback by the squeeky clean nature of the town’s buildings and although at the café we choose, no English is spoken and our German has not quite developed yet to conversational levels, we opt for the Internationally renown fine cuisine of Mozzarella & Cheese Toastie – comprehensible in any language, more cappuccino and enjoy the town centre tumbleweed atmosphere for an hour.
The driving here is pretty good, can’t travel really fast but some decent overtaking opportunities and fast bends – just need to be constantly aware of changing limits –120, 100, 80 & 50 kph – with TomTom helping out as ever.
Finding a petrol station with a high pressure hose style car wash I decide to give the zed a quick blast – at a mere €1 – though I then realize it’s just water no soap, so makes little real impact though does blast off one of my burgundy roundel stickers, upsetting my colour coordination and general automotive Feng Shue with a mixed rear blue/burgundy roundel - the horror of it!
We turn around and head back to Fussen as the Romantic Road becomes a little less romantic or might that be the effect of spending 24/7 with one’s betrothed, much of that in the confines of a Z4, where there’s no place to hide and everyone hears you scream.
IMG]http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx347/jaxz4/Euro%20Trip%202012/IMG_5015.jpg[/IMG]
With the Alps back in view it makes for quite a scenic return drive and we’re glad we’ve taken this route.
Tomorrow is the BMW Museum (sadly the only thing we have time to see in Munich), the Audi Museum at Ingolstadt and a drive part way towards Baden Baden for the wiggly sections of the Route500, for 1.5 days R&R – we’ve even planned an entire day with no driving!
Day 5 BMW & Audi Museums
Finding BMW Velt is easy with good underground parking though unlike the Porsche museum there’s little of interest in the car park itself.
True to marketing form, to reach the Museum you must pass through the main building with showroom, shops, etc. before crossing the elevated walkway to the Museum, which is good, though seems to focus extensively on design elements though curiously I found little if any reference to the somewhat controversial but successful Mr Bangle. I did find it slightly pretentious but guess that was to be expected.
Slightly disappointed that the only Z4 on show was a competition version M, though I accept we’re totally Z4 bias rather than mainstream BMW aficionados. Not even a Z8 to ogle!
Audi Museum at Ingolstadt is slighlty smaller than other two but equally enjoyable with particularly well documented history with a fabulous vertical conveyor belt filled with important Audi models over the years but bizzarely no reference to the TT – love it or loathe it and I know forum users have mixed opinions – it can’t be denied that it’s been a huge success for Audi and something of a style icon. No recent RS4 either . . . maybe both too young for a “museum”. Equally, BMW museum had no recent M3, 1M etc.
Audi cappuccino comes with chocolate powder forming the 4 rings logo, (like the Xmas tree version in Pret) – cool.
A short drive brings us to Gunzburg area where we stayed in an excellent Euro Hotel in the pretty suburb of Denzingen – beautifully neat rural houses and a “German Kitchen” pub on the doorstep for dinner – that’ll be more sausage or schnitzel then.
Next day – Route 500 to Baden Baden.
Day 6 & 7 To Baden Baden
We have more autobahn today then leave it heading south to Freudenstadt before heading north again on the Route 500 to Baden Baden. This is a wonderful route – (thanks for the tip Malc), rising through the Black Forest to the high viewing point at Mummelsee was an absolute blast on quiet, wide winding roads with decent conditions, mostly top down – like a proper forum run, except alone.
Descending towards Baden Baden I sense some steering vibration on light braking and fear warped front discs, whilst chasing an Audi A4 convertible –specced with 3.0TDi – an unusual UK spec but I know it’s an engine that can shift so we have some fun descending round many fine bends together – even with some “vibbly vobbly” steering at times - yes – my ’Allo ‘Allo style German is now fluent.
Finding our Hotel, Radison Blu at B.B. proves uber frustrating as Tom Tom insists on directing us through pedestrianized zone over rising bollards which only allow buses in, so without a street map to hand mrs jax scurries off and for 20 minutes I suspect/fear/hope she really has left me this time, parked up in a shopping street, roof down looking like a lost & lonely tourist – I keep my Oakleys on and try hard to look cool. Alas mrs jax returns, I mean at last, with a map and some guidance from a shopkeeper to leave the town, go through the tunnel and reapproach heading for the Fieshpielhaus (Opera) – obviously.
I explain our disc problem to the hotel manager (using an iphone translating app) who directs me to the BMW dealer who we speak with first. We pop along and are given fantastic treatment – the charming receptionist girl is expecting us and speaks great English, the technician examines the pads for wear with a torch and probably thinks I’m mad as they are all quite new – the rears only weeks old. I’m invited into the bay to examine my zed up on the ramp – almost unheard of here where customers are usually kept at arms length.
There’s plenty wear left in all the pads so he decides to take my zed for a spin, and promptly jumps into the passenger seat and finds no steering wheel – doh !- so we all have a bit of a laugh (Germans do have a sense of humour) as he runs round the car then quickly refamiliarizes himself with the SMG box – and he leaves us in the sunshine. On return he confirms my fears that the discs are warped though there’s plenty actual stopping power. With no chance of replacement discs over the short weekend we’re there, we thank them and return to the Hotel spa, pool etc. Fabulous dealer treatment considering this is 3.30 on a Friday afternoon. I cannot envisage such good treatment in the UK although the Inverness dealer was excellent during the Applecross run.
We spend a day without driving and “when in Rome” visit the Friederschbad Roman & Irish baths and get the 17 step treatment to total Germanic cleanliness – great fun, saunas, steam, pools and wonderful surroundings – and yes of course it’s all mixed gender and in the buff – it is Germany after all!
IMG]http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx347/jaxz4/Euro%20Trip%202012/IMG_0157BadZZZ.jpg[/IMG]
IMG]http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx347/jaxz4/Euro%20Trip%202012/IMG_0180.jpg[/IMG]
Day 8: North to the Netherlands
A good driving mix of some A roads and autobahn blasts with some roadworks eventually brings us to our friends at Rijen in Holland.
En route I’ve been trying hard to better our top autobahn speed in the knowledge that this is our last autobahn section for this trip, meaning I probably drive too long and due to traffic etc. still don’t get over 130mph – though nobody really passes today so no-one else hit higher speeds that day. We slow down to around speed limits in Holland.
Our Dutch friend Richard who is a huge footie fan has made some sacrifices to join us for a Greek meal as tonight it’s Holland’s last chance to stay in the Euro 2012 tournie – they fail so he’s not too disappointed in missing it.
Day 9: Van Gogh Museum – Amsterdam – to ferry port
We have all day to catch the ferry at 5.30 p.m. and decide we can probably stop for lunch in Amsterdam and make a quick visit to the Van Gogh museum which we’ve missed on two previous visits. TomTom helps us locate an expensive underground Q park next to Museum and we head off. Amsterdam is perhaps the most difficult city I’ve driven in including Athens & Los Angeles due to numerous tram lines and quad zillions of bikes, never sure if we’re on a tram line.
Museum and coffee shop (no, not that kind) lunch stop are excellent and a steady trip to ferry ensues – our trip effectively over. . . .yes we will return. In the queue are what looks suspiciously like a semi organized drive, 2 Nissan GTRs, an M6, Porsche 996 Carrera and a gorgeous Audi R8-we never do quite establish if they are all together.
Only thing we would have changed would be to do trip a little later to improve chance of good weather in Alps – late summer/early Autumn seems good but due to other travel plans this year that wasn’t possible. Next time . . .
JaxZ4 - Euro Trip Report June 2012
Day 2 Ijmuiden Ferry Port to Stuttgart
Our third time In Netherlands but first time driving and getting on the right route from the terminal with help from TomTom is pretty simple. I’ve been warned that speeding fines & penalties in Netherlands and particularly Switzerland can be harsh and given some history I’m committed to observing motorway limits within reason (generally 120kph ). The TomTom feature of showing the limit relevant to the road your on is an invaluable little tool that we use constantly as motorway and particularly autobahn limits change frequently often with little warning, though you soon begin to understand and predict where they will drop.
After what seems like no time at all we’re on a slightly narrower 2 lane section, when an AMG Merc flies past – heck we’re in Germany, we can GLF and Tom Tom confirms by showing no limit now. It’s genuinely narrow for 2 lanes with just a modest hard shoulder so takes a little acclimatization and concentration.
The 3.0 Zed with 231bhp is by some margin not the most powerful vehicle on these roads and it does seem that it’s usually an Audi, Merc or BMW appearing in the rear view, hinting that he can probably climb this hill quicker than you so I do pull in, as is the etiquette. Cruising (legally !) at around 125 mph quickly becomes routine and I’m delighted and impressed that my 8 year old zed seems utterly solid at speeds that, honest gov, I’ve never seen in the UK. Feeling I’m almost flatout with limited room ahead on a slight left hand bend I’m obliged to pull in at an indicated 130mph to allow another b*oody Merc pass and an Audi or two – I confess to wishing on a few occasions that I had my own daily drive, a V6T Audi S4 Avant (333bhp) when I’m pretty sure we would have hit 150 or so. In this company the zed feels a little small and slightly intimidated by the big boys and of course the roof is up, though we later have some short spells with it down at around 100mph or so.
Mrs jax takes over driving for the final run into Stuttgart and we easily find the Holiday Inn Express, watch Germany v Portugal in the bar/restaurant. Being Scottish it’s easy to be neutral. Food, room, breakfast etc. all just fine for a one night stop.
Day 3
Stuttgart – Porsche Museum
Like many I have always admired Porsche and I guess now I feel I want a 911 sometime. The museum is fabulous and easily the best of the three we visit.
There’s an enticing range of both historic and modern examples with good brief history and a decent audio guide. The coffee is excellent too and we buy the some obligatory souvenirs. I was surprised to find the new blue Boxster and the grey one with the red roof, in the parking garage just so attractive and once sat in the 911 Carrera available to the public it does fit and feel well……..so IF I traded in both the S4 and the Z4 and bought a cheaper diesel Audi then maybe, just maybe . . . but the Porsche forum I’m sure would be a poor alternative.
The drive up to Davos gets increasingly interesting once we leave the dizzy autobahn speeds and start climbing towards St Moritz etc. in showery conditions, roof up, lots of road works but fine scenery.
The Davos Sheraton, our base for 2 days is excellent though a rather expensive indulgence. We use the spa, sauna and pool and have a late dinner, watch more football and sleep like a kid at Christmas …. i.e. not much – it’s Stelvio tomorrow.
Day 4 – Fluella, Stelvio, Bernina & more
The day of the passes, starts with rain, dark clouds, and a frustrating encounter with an unmanned Davos petrol pump (though ultimately I score a bargain half tank for €20 !)
First pass of the day, Fluella is on the doorstep of Davos, which we tackle roof up in steady rain, climbing quickly and a little nervously hoping for improving conditions.
We elect not to drive through the Livigno tunnel knowing that another option will arise later and soon find ourselves tailing a rather usefully quick, pace setting Swiss Polizie Volvo, the driver of which I feel might know the pass rather better than this Alpine Pass virgin. He seems unperturbed by our presence, I keep a reasonable distance and try to recall how to switch off the Tom Tom Speed Camera / POI feature, confident that is the only Swiss motoring law I am breaking for now. Our uniformed friend stops soon in a hotel, meets another cop car and we’re sure they’re stopping for coffee and some fondue flirting with their female colleague.
We then spot a rather tasty 911 Carrera (997) and an Audi TT RS in a layby, we guess waiting for better weather for a similar attack as us. We stop a little later and bravely drop the roof, manage a few quick pics and they pass- quickly - never to be seen again.
At the suggestion of ultimatedrives.net I’ve chosen to attack the Stelvio from the National Park side where we still have the roof down. The drive through the park is nice and fairly quick though we fail to spot that classic shot of the Stelvio’s 48 Northern side hairpins - still not sure where that shot is taken from - so for a few miles we keep asking each other “are we on the Stelvio now ? ” we’ve easily rounded a dozen or so hairpins. A few months back a friend with a 3 series BMW confessed to me that he and his partner failed to find Stelvio !
We’re now certain we’re on it proper, it’s not really possible to attack it very fast now, 2nd or 3rd gear only and my SMG gearbox is in its’ element in manual sport mode, it’s crazy tight and now the roof is up again due to steady cold rain. Visibility round the hairpins is of course limited, so much more fun with the roof down when you can better see right round. There are a number of bikers, a few tasty cars, we spot a couple of Lotus (Loti ? ) Exige descending towards us – they’re tiny so limited risk of kissing door mirrors. We do get stuck behind a camper van and another car, the former miraculously manages to find a spot to kindly pull in to allow us to pass.
I feel I’m well in the groove now and more confident in accelerating as hard as possible out of each bend, the earlier anxious whimpers from mrs jax have settled a little and she returns to camera duties. With one battery failing, a camera swap ensues to maintain some video, whilst she manages to get some stills from the DSLR, some of sky, some of snow, wall and the occasional bit of windy road.
It’s snowing now quite steady (we hadn’t really bargained on snow though have came prepared for all weathers with most of our luggage back in Davos). The Zed and his new rear nicely scrubbed in Vreds is behaving impeccably and I make no apologies for keeping DSC firmly off (i.e full traction control active), this is no place for a heroic rear end slide - those walls are way too close and crunchy.
The 2757m summit approaches, I can smell the currywurtz stalls (but avoid) and we find possibly the best parking spot and hotel coffee stop right opposite the mock cycling award rostrum, where an Aussie guy who has just climbed from the other side in a recumbent bike is trying hard to get a bystander to take a decent pic of him -yes we should have helped but in our defence, we were across the snowy street, upstairs in a cozy coffee shop with a cappuccino and a (shared) apple struddle. Anyone who can climb the Stelvio on a cycle, recumbent or otherwise deserves every respect.
Descending the other side, where I’m sure the road surface has been freshly clay barred and many of the hairpins are utterly transparent we stop briefly at a T junction and make a change of plan as the route to the left looks delightful and we just need to take it. This proves a good choice as we descend further into the Italian valleys where the roof is down again the temperature rises from -1 at the top of the Stelvio to 25 degrees! Bizarre.
The journey towards Tribano is fabulous and we stop for ice cream just across the Swiss border, after the Swiss Border Guard quizzes us if we have anything to declare, other than our grins – I guess he realizes there’s little room for serious contraband in a little zed so nonchalantly waves us through. We leave soon not knowing the best drive of the day lies ahead. . .
Rising to the Bernina Pass (not to be confused with the San Bernardino, which lies too far to the west of our base at Davos for this trip) the sun is out, the roof still down and the scenery is gobsmackingly swiss chocolate box pretty and the surface proves grippy and smooth. There’s little traffic and a Swiss 5 series touring seems miffed at a top down tourist up his chuff but quickly concedes (video available) and we have an empty road ahead, clear views and the memories of the earlier Polizie Volvo distant. This is surely the best section of the day and we eventually catch up with a zesty little Audi A1 whose driver is happy to similarly press on.
Ultimately we descend from Bernina – this road feels truly like a Scottish forum run, wide, flowing, traffic free but alas no fish ‘n chips. Our little TomTom XL makes one of only two mistakes in the entire trip and takes us on a short detour of a very picturesque village (Maragls we think), the respite offering a rather welcome breather, we loop back and we’re back en route to St.Moritz / Davos and the Fluella Pass for the second time today. We’ve already dismissed the Livigno tunnel idea as we’ve driven through so many fabulous sounding tunnels today and over the last few days, many of which were much more fun than the regimented convoy that Livigno sounds. Sound clips are available somewhere.
It’s raining heavy again and the fog reduces visibility to Hammer Horror movie levels so we tiptoe up/down Fluella with all lights blazing and few other cars around - damn this Scottish like weather and our choice of a lollipop shaped route.
We’re weirdly grateful for the mixed conditions as they added a degree of drama to the day, not that the Stelvio cries out for much added drama. The final descent from Fluella improves as the fog lifts and of course I know this section so well now.
For dinner that night we walk out of our hotel, the Davos Sheraton, in heavy rain wearing shorts (as legs dry easier than jeans) and find one of just a few restaurants open for a slightly disappointing meal but some fabulous driving memories, both thinking if only today could have been a forum run and the fun and memories shared with some forum friends.
Tomorrow it’s Austria, Lichtenstein, the Silvrettestrasse and back into Germany and the Romantic Road . . . .
Day 4 – Objective - Silvrettastrasse
A fairly long drive is scheduled, from Davos to Fussen at the southern end of the German Romantic Road and our base for exploring Neuschwenstein Castle, the fabulous folly of the rather mad King Ludvig. We’ve earmarked a detour in order to drive the Silvrettastrasse, again as recommended by ultimatedrives.net I’m really hopeful for this and plan to stop for more photos realizing we didn’t stop enough yesterday. Sadly last nights’ heavy rain continues through Switzerland, Germany & Austria we’re later told. We eventually find the start of the Silvrettastrasse, heading through Lichtenstein, avoiding some Austrian motorways.
Aaaargh! - an official warning sign flashes that snow chains are required on the Silvrettastrasse. We stop, the rain does not, the fog is back and after a misjudged lay bye pot hole/puddle I’m convinced I’ve damaged something other than our by now fractious marital negotiations. A quick check reveals both are in reasonable order. After protracted debate, we sadly agree to abandon the Silvrettastrasse if only for poor visibility reasons, chains are not an available option though I doubt they would be necessary. This involves a short doubling back and more Austrian motorways, no matter we’ve paid for our vignette so are entirely legit but no derestricted sections here.
We’ve now been driving all day since 10am and the rain truly hasn’t stopped once, fair testament to the zed and the vreds that I’m never really troubled even at Swiss/Austrian motorway speeds.
We stop at the delightful German town of Fussen as planned and given the day we’ve had quickly agree to stop here for 2 nights rather than just one, thinking we’ll do an out and back on the Romantic Road. Our hotel is tricky to find as we’re sure we’re driving up a cobbled pedestrianized zone but it has partially sheltered parking where overnight, following some careful maneuvering the zed’s roof manages to dry fully, which is excellent as the next day the sun is shining and all is well again in the world.
We make the quoted 40 minute (actual 20) walk/climb up to Neuschwenstein castle for some much needed exercise, plus we have time to spare before our tour slot - the only permitted way to see the castle – budget on more time than you think. The castle is fun though much of the front is covered in scaffolding and builder’s bubble wrap for renovation, spoiling the best views !
That afternoon we spend the day driving north on the Romantic Road leaving the Alps behind us, as a stunning scenic backdrop. The landscape flattens somewhat though when we stop in the near deserted but fair sized market town of Schwangau where we’re taken aback by the squeeky clean nature of the town’s buildings and although at the café we choose, no English is spoken and our German has not quite developed yet to conversational levels, we opt for the Internationally renown fine cuisine of Mozzarella & Cheese Toastie – comprehensible in any language, more cappuccino and enjoy the town centre tumbleweed atmosphere for an hour.
The driving here is pretty good, can’t travel really fast but some decent overtaking opportunities and fast bends – just need to be constantly aware of changing limits –120, 100, 80 & 50 kph – with TomTom helping out as ever.
Finding a petrol station with a high pressure hose style car wash I decide to give the zed a quick blast – at a mere €1 – though I then realize it’s just water no soap, so makes little real impact though does blast off one of my burgundy roundel stickers, upsetting my colour coordination and general automotive Feng Shue with a mixed rear blue/burgundy roundel - the horror of it!
We turn around and head back to Fussen as the Romantic Road becomes a little less romantic or might that be the effect of spending 24/7 with one’s betrothed, much of that in the confines of a Z4, where there’s no place to hide and everyone hears you scream.
IMG]http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx347/jaxz4/Euro%20Trip%202012/IMG_5015.jpg[/IMG]
With the Alps back in view it makes for quite a scenic return drive and we’re glad we’ve taken this route.
Tomorrow is the BMW Museum (sadly the only thing we have time to see in Munich), the Audi Museum at Ingolstadt and a drive part way towards Baden Baden for the wiggly sections of the Route500, for 1.5 days R&R – we’ve even planned an entire day with no driving!
Day 5 BMW & Audi Museums
Finding BMW Velt is easy with good underground parking though unlike the Porsche museum there’s little of interest in the car park itself.
True to marketing form, to reach the Museum you must pass through the main building with showroom, shops, etc. before crossing the elevated walkway to the Museum, which is good, though seems to focus extensively on design elements though curiously I found little if any reference to the somewhat controversial but successful Mr Bangle. I did find it slightly pretentious but guess that was to be expected.
Slightly disappointed that the only Z4 on show was a competition version M, though I accept we’re totally Z4 bias rather than mainstream BMW aficionados. Not even a Z8 to ogle!
Audi Museum at Ingolstadt is slighlty smaller than other two but equally enjoyable with particularly well documented history with a fabulous vertical conveyor belt filled with important Audi models over the years but bizzarely no reference to the TT – love it or loathe it and I know forum users have mixed opinions – it can’t be denied that it’s been a huge success for Audi and something of a style icon. No recent RS4 either . . . maybe both too young for a “museum”. Equally, BMW museum had no recent M3, 1M etc.
Audi cappuccino comes with chocolate powder forming the 4 rings logo, (like the Xmas tree version in Pret) – cool.
A short drive brings us to Gunzburg area where we stayed in an excellent Euro Hotel in the pretty suburb of Denzingen – beautifully neat rural houses and a “German Kitchen” pub on the doorstep for dinner – that’ll be more sausage or schnitzel then.
Next day – Route 500 to Baden Baden.
Day 6 & 7 To Baden Baden
We have more autobahn today then leave it heading south to Freudenstadt before heading north again on the Route 500 to Baden Baden. This is a wonderful route – (thanks for the tip Malc), rising through the Black Forest to the high viewing point at Mummelsee was an absolute blast on quiet, wide winding roads with decent conditions, mostly top down – like a proper forum run, except alone.
Descending towards Baden Baden I sense some steering vibration on light braking and fear warped front discs, whilst chasing an Audi A4 convertible –specced with 3.0TDi – an unusual UK spec but I know it’s an engine that can shift so we have some fun descending round many fine bends together – even with some “vibbly vobbly” steering at times - yes – my ’Allo ‘Allo style German is now fluent.
Finding our Hotel, Radison Blu at B.B. proves uber frustrating as Tom Tom insists on directing us through pedestrianized zone over rising bollards which only allow buses in, so without a street map to hand mrs jax scurries off and for 20 minutes I suspect/fear/hope she really has left me this time, parked up in a shopping street, roof down looking like a lost & lonely tourist – I keep my Oakleys on and try hard to look cool. Alas mrs jax returns, I mean at last, with a map and some guidance from a shopkeeper to leave the town, go through the tunnel and reapproach heading for the Fieshpielhaus (Opera) – obviously.
I explain our disc problem to the hotel manager (using an iphone translating app) who directs me to the BMW dealer who we speak with first. We pop along and are given fantastic treatment – the charming receptionist girl is expecting us and speaks great English, the technician examines the pads for wear with a torch and probably thinks I’m mad as they are all quite new – the rears only weeks old. I’m invited into the bay to examine my zed up on the ramp – almost unheard of here where customers are usually kept at arms length.
There’s plenty wear left in all the pads so he decides to take my zed for a spin, and promptly jumps into the passenger seat and finds no steering wheel – doh !- so we all have a bit of a laugh (Germans do have a sense of humour) as he runs round the car then quickly refamiliarizes himself with the SMG box – and he leaves us in the sunshine. On return he confirms my fears that the discs are warped though there’s plenty actual stopping power. With no chance of replacement discs over the short weekend we’re there, we thank them and return to the Hotel spa, pool etc. Fabulous dealer treatment considering this is 3.30 on a Friday afternoon. I cannot envisage such good treatment in the UK although the Inverness dealer was excellent during the Applecross run.
We spend a day without driving and “when in Rome” visit the Friederschbad Roman & Irish baths and get the 17 step treatment to total Germanic cleanliness – great fun, saunas, steam, pools and wonderful surroundings – and yes of course it’s all mixed gender and in the buff – it is Germany after all!
IMG]http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx347/jaxz4/Euro%20Trip%202012/IMG_0157BadZZZ.jpg[/IMG]
IMG]http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx347/jaxz4/Euro%20Trip%202012/IMG_0180.jpg[/IMG]
Day 8: North to the Netherlands
A good driving mix of some A roads and autobahn blasts with some roadworks eventually brings us to our friends at Rijen in Holland.
En route I’ve been trying hard to better our top autobahn speed in the knowledge that this is our last autobahn section for this trip, meaning I probably drive too long and due to traffic etc. still don’t get over 130mph – though nobody really passes today so no-one else hit higher speeds that day. We slow down to around speed limits in Holland.
Our Dutch friend Richard who is a huge footie fan has made some sacrifices to join us for a Greek meal as tonight it’s Holland’s last chance to stay in the Euro 2012 tournie – they fail so he’s not too disappointed in missing it.
Day 9: Van Gogh Museum – Amsterdam – to ferry port
We have all day to catch the ferry at 5.30 p.m. and decide we can probably stop for lunch in Amsterdam and make a quick visit to the Van Gogh museum which we’ve missed on two previous visits. TomTom helps us locate an expensive underground Q park next to Museum and we head off. Amsterdam is perhaps the most difficult city I’ve driven in including Athens & Los Angeles due to numerous tram lines and quad zillions of bikes, never sure if we’re on a tram line.
Museum and coffee shop (no, not that kind) lunch stop are excellent and a steady trip to ferry ensues – our trip effectively over. . . .yes we will return. In the queue are what looks suspiciously like a semi organized drive, 2 Nissan GTRs, an M6, Porsche 996 Carrera and a gorgeous Audi R8-we never do quite establish if they are all together.
Only thing we would have changed would be to do trip a little later to improve chance of good weather in Alps – late summer/early Autumn seems good but due to other travel plans this year that wasn’t possible. Next time . . .
need to read later to do this justice 
Looking forward to tips!
Fab trip
You still got the vibble vobble? 
but not as bad as they've been.