Engine RPM and Breaks! - VIDEO UPDATE
- Thread starter Nova2k7
- Start date
Georgio said:
Nope no hill assist
Maniac said:I'd say issue with the vacuum line or associated components. Have a local indy check it over for leaks etc.
* Oh and its 'Brakes' not 'Breaks'
hmm its just strange as it only does it for 5 mins after the car is started, i put my foot on the brakes and the engine revs up and down and sounds likes it going to cut out, almost as if something is draining on the battery?
There's another thread on here thats similar, only their idle went up not down. Worth a look though; http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40500&p=568573&hilit=idle+replaced#p568573
Does the idle change only on the brake being pressed? What about if you put on all your lights etc? Idle drop here would indicate a voltage drain (alternator issue). If only when brakes are being pressed, it could well be something on the vacuum side. Perhaps only exists for the first few minutes while your engine gets up to running temp and is less affected thereafter.
Does the idle change only on the brake being pressed? What about if you put on all your lights etc? Idle drop here would indicate a voltage drain (alternator issue). If only when brakes are being pressed, it could well be something on the vacuum side. Perhaps only exists for the first few minutes while your engine gets up to running temp and is less affected thereafter.
Maniac said:
hmm interesting! yes this only happens when the brake pedal is pressed and only for the first 5 mins after start up. wondering if it also could be MAF related as the EML has been on since getting the car in December, although i plugged the car into my laptop the other week and cleared the code and it currently hasnt come back on?
Unlikely MAF, IMO. Most likely as Maniac says. Vacuum leak in either brake servo hose or inside servo itself. A malfunctioning MAF could make the effect worse, but wouldn't be the root cause. Did you note the error code before you cleared it? Was it MAF related or are you speculating?
As the leak could be anywhere, you'll have to take it to a professional to diagnose. No one here will be able to guess where the leak is and guess what it might cost, which if they did, would not be very helpful anyhow as your local garage/dealer may find and charge very differently to any guesses.
I suppose that is good news? Sorry I missed your last post in Aug. You could do a cursory check with the engine running. Listen for any leaking air sound, feel along it's length, look for any split or soft spots and change in air noise. It's not hard to remove to do a thorough check. Turn off the engine and pump the brakes several times to release any vacuum. It just pulls out of the brake servo and you need to loosen a hose clamp where it connects to the engine. Ensure the valve on the end allows air passage in only one direction, otherwise just visually check condition.