Engine noise on tick over....

D

Daddley

Member
 Kent
Hi All,

Had my 3.0 si sport 2007, 27k miles, for about 6 months, bought a bmw warranty when I took ownership, just noticed a knocking noise on tick over from the engine... this noise dissapears with the clutch peddle depressed... Not a huge noise, but something that would concern me if I were to come looking to purchase it.

Going to take it in on saturday for a diagnosis, any thoughts greatly welcome,


Thanks
 
Might be this that seems to effect a growing number of the facelift z4's http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13084&p=196277&hilit=Hydraulic+tappet+noise#p196277
 
HI Are you sure it is not gear chatter or possible thrust release bearing noise ,as this will stop when clutch dipped. Not uncommon and quite normal according to local main dealer .350z i had was just the same a known issue with them.Still best to get checked though .
 
its definitely the release bearing if it disappears when you dip the clutch - theres absolutely damage when you hear the noise, just some vibrating/'chattering' of the plates - its a characteristic of the car. Most people (the 3.0si's anyway) have this. Its just something you have to live with buddy. Have heard of dealers changing the bearing, fixing the noise and it returns a few miles later. Just enjoy the drive! :wink:
 
Ive had this exact same noise with my 3.0l si, like a background rattle/whirring/knocking at tickover which gets noiser when engine fully warm and clutch pedal out then goes when pressed in. Went into the dealers and they initially thought clutch release bearing, on further inspection they decided to change the gearbox and clutch under warranty. Still makes the same noise now, although the clutch is wonderfully light! Its a strange one, cant quite get my head around it although it must be a built in feature. :D
 
I'm not convinced it's always the clutch, especially as you describe it as knocking. Clutch release is the first port of call but pressing the clutch simply changes loading on various parts from crank through clutch assembly to input shaft. The loading and unloading of these components lets noises appear and vanish.

Def one to get the dealer to investigate fully and it may turn out to be simply characteristic of the set up, or and costly replacement. As an auto driver I can't tell you which :)

Interested to hear what they said if you took it in.
 
Royston_racing said:
Ive had this exact same noise with my 3.0l si, like a background rattle/whirring/knocking at tickover which gets noiser when engine fully warm and clutch pedal out then goes when pressed in. Went into the dealers and they initially thought clutch release bearing, on further inspection they decided to change the gearbox and clutch under warranty. Still makes the same noise now, although the clutch is wonderfully light! Its a strange one, cant quite get my head around it although it must be a built in feature. :D
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I had the same done as you. A new gearbox and clutch. Something to do with the input shaft being warn they said. The noise returned within a week after which the dealer decides it's normal and nothing to worry about.
 
I'm amazed no one has said the flywheel yet! That would be my first port of call... BMW probably employ a dual-mass affair and it could be getting a little worn - although you'd have to drive it pretty aggressively at that mileage!
 
EdButler said:
I'm amazed no one has said the flywheel yet! That would be my first port of call... BMW probably employ a dual-mass affair and it could be getting a little worn - although you'd have to drive it pretty aggressively at that mileage!
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Maybe you are right, could be flywheel but in the time ive owned owned the car the noise has not got any louder or changed at all. Mine was @ 24k miles when I bought it and I only noticed it a couple of weeks after buying when you start to pick up on things like that. Im still undecided wether to take it back to Sytners and say its still making the noise even after the new Gbox & clutch. Maybe I could point them in the direction of the flywheel......although shouldn't that have been inspected when changing the clutch....Hmmm :roll:
 
ok, so I take it in and they suggest a new gearbox!!! its 4 years old! ouchy, thank god I have the warranty, but I'm not even sure I should be using it (has a £250 excess) surely this a manufacturer issue...

Anyway, it goes on the thursday for a closer look, hopefully wont involve a new gearbox...

I've read all the comments above and the option of "living with it".. what happens when I try and sell it and it sounds sick? I wouldn't touch it... Is it too much to ask for a nice, fast, reliable sports car with no issues???
 
I think I would jump at the chance to get a new transmission for £250 (therefore you should be hoping that they ***do*** decide it needs replacement). Yes, you would think that it should definitely last more than 27k miles, but sometimes stuff happens (and you never know how it was treated before you bought it). Take advantage of the chance to get it replaced under warranty because if you don't and it completely fails in the future after the warranty has expired, you will be out a ***bunch*** of money (call around and find out how much).

I had the manual transmission replaced on my 2004 Z4 3.0 at about 50k miles under BMW CPO warranty because of intermittent balky shifting. I bought the car used so I can't know how it was treated before me. I had them replace the clutch while they had it apart, even though it is unlikely it would have needed replacement any time soon. I figure that way I am good to go for many, many miles into the future. Yes, I was quite disappointed that the transmission needed replacement at so few miles, but I was very grateful for the warranty coverage.

If you get a new transmission (and even if you don't), I would recommend periodically changing the transmission fluid, rather than relying on the BMW "lifetime fill" fluid. That will maximize the life of the transmission. The interval I think I've heard is an initial change after break-in at something like 1200 miles, then change it every 30K miles after that (you should get some more recommendations for intervals from people more knowledgeable than me). You can use the genuine BMW fluid (I understand it is good, but very expensive), but I think most people use Red Line MTL or Royal Purple Synchromax.
 
Thanks for that reply, think I was just a little anoyed at more car trouble, (why me!?)

You're right, a new gearbox for a fraction of the price is a good deal, but do you think it affects future resale? AS it can be spun both ways, positive: new gearbox negative: why did it need it!? Think I'm just a little paranoid on the resale, as I got burnt on the boxster I had before (cost me 10k all in all...)
 
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