Simon 3.2M
Senior member
Whilst the subject of poly bushes for the lollipops is being discussed, what are people's thoughts on engine mounts - OEM or uprated?
Engine mounts
- Thread starter Simon 3.2M
- Start date
I'd check they actually need doing before committing, I had mine checked during Inspection 2 based on recommendation on this forum. I was also in an open wallet mentality towards the car during this and my independent knew this... great opportunity to say they need doing and charge me but they said they were fine, original, 2007 car with 55k miles.
The vibratech mounts make the car feel more planted but I seem to remember members who have installed them have reported creaking. Beedub has them I think so worth asking him 
On the case of doing them. These are IMO just as important if not more important than the bearings as these are age related items just as they are mileage. They are rubber and I think its the passenger side that is right next to the heat shield making that one perish faster, they compress and perish. In some cases they completely separate. At the age of these cars 10-12 years old I would say regardless of mileage they should be on the list.
There are signs. They can leak but there is a shield so unlikely you will see any fluid on the driveway. When the mounts have compressed there is more vibration from the engine and the engine itself can move more than it should under torque if the mounts have separated. This is why having the engine bolts changed is a good idea too as these were a fault anyway but they can get loose and under more strain can also snap. I think TomK had this issue the bolts had sheared completely.
At the end of the day they are hard to get to and you cant see them unless you remove the undertray, they could well be perished or separated but while the engine is off all weight is on them so you wouldn't know if they were separated. You would also only be able to compare when they come out.
Again if your having the bearings done it makes sense to have them do at the same time for piece of mind it shouldn't cost a lot. Engine movement can cause big bills as its connected to the trans etc and the vibration and torque movement will flow to everything connected.
Failure and separation
Compression
Complete failure
[youtube]JtHem8KpFOw[/youtube]
On the case of doing them. These are IMO just as important if not more important than the bearings as these are age related items just as they are mileage. They are rubber and I think its the passenger side that is right next to the heat shield making that one perish faster, they compress and perish. In some cases they completely separate. At the age of these cars 10-12 years old I would say regardless of mileage they should be on the list.
There are signs. They can leak but there is a shield so unlikely you will see any fluid on the driveway. When the mounts have compressed there is more vibration from the engine and the engine itself can move more than it should under torque if the mounts have separated. This is why having the engine bolts changed is a good idea too as these were a fault anyway but they can get loose and under more strain can also snap. I think TomK had this issue the bolts had sheared completely.
At the end of the day they are hard to get to and you cant see them unless you remove the undertray, they could well be perished or separated but while the engine is off all weight is on them so you wouldn't know if they were separated. You would also only be able to compare when they come out.
Again if your having the bearings done it makes sense to have them do at the same time for piece of mind it shouldn't cost a lot. Engine movement can cause big bills as its connected to the trans etc and the vibration and torque movement will flow to everything connected.
Failure and separation
Compression
Complete failure
[youtube]JtHem8KpFOw[/youtube]
Simon 3.2M
Senior member
tomscott said:The vibratech mounts make the car feel more planted but I seem to remember members who have installed them have reported creaking. Beedub has them I think so worth asking him
On the case of doing them. These are IMO just as important if not more important than the bearings as these are age related items just as they are mileage. They are rubber and I think its the passenger side that is right next to the heat shield making that one perish faster, they compress and perish. In some cases they completely separate. At the age of these cars 10-12 years old I would say regardless of mileage they should be on the list.
There are signs. They can leak but there is a shield so unlikely you will see any fluid on the driveway. When the mounts have compressed there is more vibration from the engine and the engine itself can move more than it should under torque if the mounts have separated. This is why having the engine bolts changed is a good idea too as these were a fault anyway but they can get loose and under more strain can also snap. I think TomK had this issue the bolts had sheared completely.
At the end of the day they are hard to get to and you cant see them unless you remove the undertray, they could well be perished or separated but while the engine is off all weight is on them so you wouldn't know if they were separated. You would also only be able to compare when they come out.
Again if your having the bearings done it makes sense to have them do at the same time for piece of mind it shouldn't cost a lot. Engine movement can cause big bills as its connected to the trans etc and the vibration and torque movement will flow to everything connected.
Failure and separation
Compression
Complete failure
[youtube]JtHem8KpFOw[/youtube]
I've had the bearings done Tom and the Indy said they were fine and didn't recommend uprated mounts. They don't look difficult to change - just remove the under tray and aluminium support and you can access the bolts through the wishbone.
Liverpool
tomscott said:
Nope, not me.
I changed mine at about 60k for the vt road mounts. Original bolts hadn't backed out at all and the mounts themselves looked absolutely fine.
I can't say I noticed much difference really, although I would say the 2nd gear denial syndrome was definitely improved, so worth it for that alone imo, especially as it takes provably 10 mins to do on a lift.
How many mounts are needed? 2?
TomK said:
And with no lift available? Could you safely put the car on axle stands and use a jack plus some kid of load spreader (aka a plank) to take the weight of the engine while you replace the mounts? Is there enough clearance to torque the bolts properly?
Lots of questions, sorry. It’s just not something I’d considered I could do myself before.
MrPT said:TomK said:
And with no lift available? Could you safely put the car on axle stands and use a jack plus some kid of load spreader (aka a plank) to take the weight of the engine while you replace the mounts? Is there enough clearance to torque the bolts properly?
Lots of questions, sorry. It’s just not something I’d considered I could do myself before.
You could hire a ramp for an hour MrPT at one of those places with a few ramps for the public to use. Use a gearbox stand to take the engine once it’s in the air.
Or hire an engine hoist on wheels and chain the engine that way. Planks sound a bit heath Robinson and would be in the way.
Simon 3.2M
Senior member
MrPT said:TomK said:
And with no lift available? Could you safely put the car on axle stands and use a jack plus some kid of load spreader (aka a plank) to take the weight of the engine while you replace the mounts? Is there enough clearance to torque the bolts properly?
Lots of questions, sorry. It’s just not something I’d considered I could do myself before.
I think you can put axle stands on the front, remove the aluminium under tray, undo the mount bolts , jack the engine (place wood in between) swap the mounts and reverse what you've just done. Not sure if I'm over simplifying the procedure but I'm sure others can comment. I'm not sure of torque figures though.
I fitted the Vibratech "road" engine mounts a few years ago. Even though I'd already uprated the suspension, the effect of fitting these mounts was very noticeable and was like a further suspension upgrade.
I posted a bit about fitting these things which some might find useful:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=77593&p=1143255&hilit=vibratech#p1143255
I posted a bit about fitting these things which some might find useful:
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=77593&p=1143255&hilit=vibratech#p1143255
Simon 3.2M
Senior member
exdos said:
Thanks exdos - is it essential to replace the bolts to the aluminium undertray? I doesn't look my Indy did when they did the bearings the other week.
Simon 3.2M said:
IMO it is because the undertray gives rigidity to the engine bay structure and the bolts used are "one time only". It seems pointless improving the stability of the engine with the VT mounts only to reduce the rigidity of the structure to which it is attached by reusing the bolts. A case of spoiling the ship...
Simon 3.2M
Senior member
BMWZ4MC said:
