Engine HELP!!!

L

lkhc123

Member
 Bath
Hi all fairly new to all of this but today I looked under the bonnet Took off the engine cover and found oil pooled around the spark plug and all around the oil cap and noticed a clattering noise. I only did this cos I noticed that the oil level had gone down. Any help would be appreciated

Edit... the cars done about 90k with the N52 engine :D

Here I’ve clean up most of it but you can just about see it
45944F69-F894-4CC0-A16D-9400DB072D67.jpeg
 
I'm sure the experts here will want to know what engine it is and how many miles or kilometres on it.
 
Check the rocker cover gasket. They're not expensive so might be worth replacing. Also make sure you do the rubbers around the bolts......when I did mine they had basically dissolved
 
Cam cover gasket and the centre spark plug well gasket need changing also all of the round rubber seals under the cover retaining bolts will need replacing. The gaskets and seals go hard and brittle over time and this results in oil leaks developing. When the new gasket is fitted use some gasket sealant around the half moon shapes at the front and rear of the cover to ensure a good seal where the gasket changes direction into the half moon shapes. I use Blue Hylomar gasket sealant when I do this.
 
I have this job in my near future. Any advice on the full set of parts? Is this enough: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/reinz/980449
 
Liam22 said:
I have this job in my near future. Any advice on the full set of parts? Is this enough: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/reinz/980449
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No, you'll need the bolt rubber washers too! This kit will have it all. You just need an 8mm and a 10mm plus a torque wrench that does 8nm.

Edit: need a gasket paste too.

https://m.autodoc.co.uk/elring/7625587
 
bearded_ed said:
This kit will have it all.
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Thank you! I'll add the valvetronic seal while I'm there! https://www.autodoc.co.uk/elring/7638071

I have Hylomar on the shelf ;)
 
Super easy job on the Z4. You don't even need to remove the fuel rail, just remove the electrical harness from the ejectors and push it aside. Remember to buy the full gasket kit. Lastly check the eccentric sensor for internal oil leaks. If there is oil inside the plug the sensor is defective. In this case you will want to replace it now, otherwise you will eventually have to do the whole job over.
 

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javis20 said:
Lastly check the eccentric sensor for internal oil leaks. If there is oil inside the plug the sensor is defective.
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Wow! They're not cheap... however, I think mine is weeping, so I'll double-check and add it to the list.

Thanks for the tip :thumbsup:
 
There is electrical circuitry inside the electrical connector. If you have oil pooling around the gold pins, it means oil is leaking into the electronics and will soon fail. I went with the VDO sensor.
 
thanks for all the help guys. I'm not exactly technically with it so I might just take it into the indy and get them to sort it out, But if I was to Do It Myself how long would it possibly take?
 
Probably 4 hours. Only because you will find your missing a tool. Or struggle a bit to figure out how to remove injector harness.
 
javis20 said:
Probably 4 hours. Only because you will find your missing a tool. Or struggle a bit to figure out how to remove injector harness.
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sounds reasonable anything I need to be wary off when doing this?
 
I'd personally avoid Autodoc like the plague. I ordered disc's back in Feb (based on reg and listings for my car) and had to return them after they didn't fit - 6 months later and i'm still trying to get a refund, possibly ok when everything goes well but their customer service when things go wrong is terrible from my experience, currently £175 out of pocket.
 
I used the BMW gasket kit and the VDO Eccentric sensor.


1st. Make sure you have the correct torz bit for the strut brace. Here in the states we have bastardized versions of some metric tools. Meaning the torx tip is correct but the taper is incorrect, so the bit isn.t in deep enough and slips out of the bolt under high torque.

2nd. Take your time with the electrical connectors on the ejectors. They are held on with spring clips. Start at the front of the engine and use a small screw driver to spread the first spring clip and lift up on it. Then move to the second and again spread the clip and lift up. and so on... Gradually the clip rail will lift up from the injectors. Do not remove the springs, just spread them enough to unplug the connector.

3rd If you have to replace the eccentric sensor be very careful not to drop the bolt into the engine. If you look up DIY's, you will see what I mean. Some places sell a magnetic socket/extension which is very helpful. If you don't have one, shove some rags all around the bolt area to prevent losing the bolt.

4th. If I recall, the E85 requires a dab of black permatex sealant in a few areas. You might want to have some on hand.

Other that the above, it's a pretty easy job.
 
davegt said:
I'd personally avoid Autodoc like the plague. I ordered disc's back in Feb (based on reg and listings for my car) and had to return them after they didn't fit - 6 months later and i'm still trying to get a refund, possibly ok when everything goes well but their customer service when things go wrong is terrible from my experience, currently £175 out of pocket.
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i second that. i have had an issue with them when buy just some pads.

javis20 said:
I used the BMW gasket kit and the VDO Eccentric sensor.


1st. Make sure you have the correct torz bit for the strut brace. Here in the states we have bastardized versions of some metric tools. Meaning the torx tip is correct but the taper is incorrect, so the bit isn.t in deep enough and slips out of the bolt under high torque.

2nd. Take your time with the electrical connectors on the ejectors. They are held on with spring clips. Start at the front of the engine and use a small screw driver to spread the first spring clip and lift up on it. Then move to the second and again spread the clip and lift up. and so on... Gradually the clip rail will lift up from the injectors. Do not remove the springs, just spread them enough to unplug the connector.

3rd If you have to replace the eccentric sensor be very careful not to drop the bolt into the engine. If you look up DIY's, you will see what I mean. Some places sell a magnetic socket/extension which is very helpful. If you don't have one, shove some rags all around the bolt area to prevent losing the bolt.

4th. If I recall, the E85 requires a dab of black permatex sealant in a few areas. You might want to have some on hand.

Other that the above, it's a pretty easy job.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the tips Javis20 much appreciated.
 
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