Engine fan on at startup?

When doing it, it's easier to push the snap on pipes into the static you do it before bolting the stat to the pump, as you can get both hands on it at that point.

Mike
 
Ducklakeview said:
When doing it, it's easier to push the snap on pipes into the static you do it before bolting the stat to the pump, as you can get both hands on it at that point.

Mike


Cheers, good to know. That is if I can still feel my hands! Tyupical it would go just as the cold weather sets in!
 
They can be a pain to bleed. You also need to activate the self bleeding procedure as follows;

You MUST have a diagnostic power supply or charger attached to the battery when doing this, as if the voltage falls below a certain level it will stop the procedure. Bear in mind that you will have the ign on, the blower, dipped headlights AND the pump running continuously at max speed, so you will be draining about 50 amps..

After you have finished fitting the pump etc and topped up the coolant, leave the expansion tank cap off.

Turn ign on, do not start engine
Turn dipped headlights on
Set heater temp to MAX
Set blower speed to min, one click NOT off
Sport button needs to be OFF
Then press accelerator Fully to the floor and hold for 10 seconds, the coolant pump will then activate continuously for 12 minutes, you can remove your foot from the accelerator after the 10 seconds once the pump has started!

You will hear all sorts of gurgling and bubbling noises whilst the pump purges air from the system. After 12 minutes it will stop.

Top up coolant, fit cap and start engine, running it up to temp, then re check coolant level.

Mike
 
Smartbear said:
For the life of me I can’t work out why the headlights need to be on, why is this Mike?
Rob

This;

"If the low-beam headlights are not switched on, the ignition (Terminal 15) will switch off automatically after a certain period of time, because the engine is not running and interrupt the bleeding procedure."

Mike
 
It did look a bit involved, I have a decent charger and a mate has just said I can do it in his workshop where he has the diagnostic machine.

Or he could do it for a few beer tokens.
 
Wildfire said:
It did look a bit involved, I have a decent charger and a mate has just said I can do it in his workshop where he has the diagnostic machine.

Or he could do it for a few beer tokens.

Diagnostic machine not needed to do the bleed, unless you want to check /clear codes.

Mike
 
Right, pump ordered, thermostat ordered. Replaced yesterday and bled. All seems ok. I'll check the level later on. Was not cheap to do though, or that easy.
 
Wildfire said:
Right, pump ordered, thermostat ordered. Replaced yesterday and bled. All seems ok. I'll check the level later on. Was not cheap to do though, or that easy.

Good man. Can you give any tips / anything to watch out for? Always good to give back to the forum :wink:
 
ph001 said:
Wildfire said:
Right, pump ordered, thermostat ordered. Replaced yesterday and bled. All seems ok. I'll check the level later on. Was not cheap to do though, or that easy.

Good man. Can you give any tips / anything to watch out for? Always good to give back to the forum :wink:

Biggest tip I can give on this is to push the click on hoses into the stat BEFORE you fix it in place otherwise they are a nightmare to lever on. With it off you can just use both hands.

Mike
 
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