End of warranty check

[HillWalker]

So received a letter from the dealer where I had the car from nearly 3yrs ago to say to book it in for its end of warranty check, but as the dealer is a 120 mile round trip away and the car as only done 6000 miles and is as brand new and only goes out when the sun's shining, is it worth the time and effort to take it in, what actually will they do, I know there's nothing wrong with it but did wonder about any software updates etc

 

[Smartbear]

So received a letter from the dealer where I had the car from nearly 3yrs ago to say to book it in for its end of warranty check, but as the dealer is a 120 mile round trip away and the car as only done 6000 miles and is as brand new and only goes out when the sun's shining, is it worth the time and effort to take it in, what actually will they do, I know there's nothing wrong with it but did wonder about any software updates etc

You sound pretty confident, what wheels has your zed got & when was the last time you got underneath to check the inside wheel rims for cracking?
Rob

 

[Nictrix]

If its not broke, dont let them try and fix it :lol:

 

[HillWalker]

Rob, Well of course I haven't it gets such gentle use I never thought about it, and I always thought that if there where any cracks I would get a slow loss of pressure. Where abouts on the rim would I look for these dreaded cracks.

 

[Twin Turbo]

I would seriously recommend having it checked, however, I am not sure if you need to take it to the garage you purchased it from.

I did not take mine to this check and encountered an issue - However, I had the foresight of taking out the warranty out. Plus there was an software update completed as well.

I now have a new gearbox

 

[Smartbear]

Rob, Well of course I haven't it gets such gentle use I never thought about it, and I always thought that if there where any cracks I would get a slow loss of pressure. Where abouts on the rim would I look for these dreaded cracks.

It’s the lip on the inside edge of the wheel where it meets the tyre, mine suffered this fate 2 months out of warranty when I took it for a service :x
It’s fairly common on 19” wheels & my car lost no pressure....
Rob

 

[HillWalker]

Yes got the 326 alright, I've just decided to bite the bullet and upgrade to Michelin Pilot Sport 4S, not an easy decision to spend 800 quid on new tyres when the ones that are on still look like new.

 

[Twin Turbo]

Yes got the 326 alright, I've just decided to bite the bullet and upgrade to Michelin Pilot Sport 4S, not an easy decision to spend 800 quid on new tyres when the ones that are on still look like new.

Sell them on ebay?

 

[ric19]

Rob, Well of course I haven't it gets such gentle use I never thought about it, and I always thought that if there where any cracks I would get a slow loss of pressure. Where abouts on the rim would I look for these dreaded cracks.

Both mine where cracked and I didn't lose pressure in either rear wheels

 

[HillWalker]

Thanks for the picture ric19, I'll be under there with my torch tomorrow, I know all about the cracking wheels but having done such a low mileage never gave it a second thought

 

[HillWalker]

P.S. Is it only ever the rears that crack ?

 

[Smartbear]

Thanks for the picture ric19, I'll be under there with my torch tomorrow, I know all about the cracking wheels but having done such a low mileage never gave it a second thought

Mine had covered 19k when cracks were discovered :thumbsdown:
Rob

 

[Smartbear]

P.S. Is it only ever the rears that crack ?

They seem to suffer more but the fronts can fail as well, getting shot of the rock hard rf tyres seems to pretty much stop it happening.
Rob

 

[ric19]

Thanks for the picture ric19, I'll be under there with my torch tomorrow, I know all about the cracking wheels but having done such a low mileage never gave it a second thought

Well good luck with that, I tried to inspect mine pre MOT but couldn't see any cracks so also jacked it up and found the wheels were seized on the hub , so at some point in the near future I'm having the new wheels off and slapping some antiseize grease on to make sure I can get them off to check

 

[tomscott]

Get rid of the run flats.

 

[mcbutler]

Thanks for the picture ric19, I'll be under there with my torch tomorrow, I know all about the cracking wheels but having done such a low mileage never gave it a second thought

Well good luck with that, I tried to inspect mine pre MOT but couldn't see any cracks so also jacked it up and found the wheels were seized on the hub , so at some point in the near future I'm having the new wheels off and slapping some antiseize grease on to make sure I can get them off to check

Wheels seizing on the hub is a well known BMW/AUDI thing. I had my rear tyres changed recently. It took nearly 4 hours! The locking wheel nut tool sheared off instantly making it impossible to get the special tools into the head of the locking wheel nut to remove it. Only after hours of patient picking, magnets, special gadgets that you hammer into the 'slot' on the locking bolt, turbo sockets etc etc did they get them off. If you have not already done it, back off your wheel bolts one at a time and spray a little copper grease in.

The problem is that the bolts are slightly too long and protrude through the hub a few millimetres. Rust forms on the bolt and prevents it from being extracted by the piss poor quality 'special wheel nut tool' which is apparently made from play-doh...

Do it now, you have been warned...... wah wah waaaaahhhhhhh

 

[mcbutler]

Thanks for the picture ric19, I'll be under there with my torch tomorrow, I know all about the cracking wheels but having done such a low mileage never gave it a second thought

Well good luck with that, I tried to inspect mine pre MOT but couldn't see any cracks so also jacked it up and found the wheels were seized on the hub , so at some point in the near future I'm having the new wheels off and slapping some antiseize grease on to make sure I can get them off to check

Wheels seizing on the hub is a well known BMW/AUDI thing. I had my rear tyres changed recently. It took nearly 4 hours! The locking wheel nut tool sheared off instantly making it impossible to get the special tools into the head of the locking wheel nut to remove it. Only after hours of patient picking, magnets, special gadgets that you hammer into the 'slot' on the locking bolt, turbo sockets etc etc did they get them off. If you have not already done it, back off your wheel bolts one at a time and spray a little copper grease in.

The problem is that the bolts are slightly too long and protrude through the hub a few millimetres. Rust forms on the bolt and prevents it from being extracted by the piss poor quality 'special wheel nut tool' which is apparently made from play-doh...

Do it now, you have been warned...... wah wah waaaaahhhhhhh

Point of note, no power tools were used, socket broke under 'bicep power'...

 

[R.E92]

I would seriously recommend having it checked, however, I am not sure if you need to take it to the garage you purchased it from.

I did not take mine to this check and encountered an issue - However, I had the foresight of taking out the warranty out. Plus there was an software update completed as well.

I now have a new gearbox

Did you re-install the JB4 after the gearbox was replaced? Those piggyback units eat gearboxes!

 

[Smartbear]

Thanks for the picture ric19, I'll be under there with my torch tomorrow, I know all about the cracking wheels but having done such a low mileage never gave it a second thought

Well good luck with that, I tried to inspect mine pre MOT but couldn't see any cracks so also jacked it up and found the wheels were seized on the hub , so at some point in the near future I'm having the new wheels off and slapping some antiseize grease on to make sure I can get them off to check

Wheels seizing on the hub is a well known BMW/AUDI thing. I had my rear tyres changed recently. It took nearly 4 hours! The locking wheel nut tool sheared off instantly making it impossible to get the special tools into the head of the locking wheel nut to remove it. Only after hours of patient picking, magnets, special gadgets that you hammer into the 'slot' on the locking bolt, turbo sockets etc etc did they get them off. If you have not already done it, back off your wheel bolts one at a time and spray a little copper grease in.

The problem is that the bolts are slightly too long and protrude through the hub a few millimetres. Rust forms on the bolt and prevents it from being extracted by the piss poor quality 'special wheel nut tool' which is apparently made from play-doh...

Do it now, you have been warned...... wah wah waaaaahhhhhhh

I think you’ll find it’s not advisable to grease the wheel bolts, the torque settings are for dry bolts & will be wrong for greased bolts :?
Rob

 

[Twin Turbo]

I would seriously recommend having it checked, however, I am not sure if you need to take it to the garage you purchased it from.

I did not take mine to this check and encountered an issue - However, I had the foresight of taking out the warranty out. Plus there was an software update completed as well.

I now have a new gearbox

Did you re-install the JB4 after the gearbox was replaced? Those piggyback units eat gearboxes!

No JB4 installed as of yet, and I have a manual gearbox

As its getting close to fitting winter tyres - so little benefit with skinnies on