I've seen lots of things written about repairing the retractable hardtops on the E89 Z4. I did a repair on mine last year to fix a broken wire. This time the roof was in the trunk when the malfunction symbol came up. Did some checking and found code A68B for microswitch left side. I understand this could be a failed microswitch or a broken wire to the microswitch. I have the 2009-2011 Factory Service Manual and found the section on Emergency roof closing. I made the tool to unlatch the rear lid and that allowed me to get to the roof panels. The next step in the manual (pp 1392-1393) is to "Release screw (1) on left and right from the holder". Any tips on how to release the locking mechanism so the roof panels can be lifted? The manual shows the screw but you have to work blind to get to it. I think it is a #20 torx bit but I can't get enough pressure on it to turn the screw. Is there some other way to get the roof panel unlocked? If I can get the roof panels up I think I can get the wire repaired or replace the microswitch. Anyone have experience with getting the roof panels unlocked when doing an emergency close for the roof?
Emergency roof closing E89 Z4 - unlocking roof package
- Thread starter nevwagner
- Start date
San Francisco, CA
Thanks Marcoose for the suggestion. I've seen several several posts that say RobbiZ4 is no longer posting to the Z4-Forum and he is now posting on Bimmerpost. I did find some related comments of his there, but it looks like he is directing people to a business in Germany for questions about Emergency closing of Z4 roof. I saw one other post by someone that got as far as I did. Getting the rear lid unlatched but not being able to unlock the roof package from the stowed position. I saw one post that mentioned not being able to turn the Torx screws to release the roof package as the instructions in the Service Manual says to do. I'm getting the impression that my only option might be to take it to an auto shop to get it fixed.
If you can get in the trunk, go to the CTM connector and jumper pin 7 to pin 10. Pin 7 is for the left side microswitch and pin 10 is for the right side microswitch. If you short them together you top will work again as normal. You can then locate and fix your broken wire. Don't do any thing with the hydraulics.
see this tread... https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=147583
see this tread... https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=147583
Well, no success in jumpering pin 7 to pin 10 because I can't get to the CTM. I can open the trunk but with the cargo partition latched down in place and the roof package locked down into the trunk, I am not finding a way to remove any of the truck liner & trim pieces. So no access to the CTM. I have removed all of the plastic push pins that secure the liner panels, but I can't get any of them removed because they all interlock or overlap with each other. Not able to shift or bend them out of the way with the cargo partition down. Any other options besides cutting or breaking the liner panels or trim in the trunk?
I guess you will have to do it the hard way. I've never done it, but have been preparing for this scenario. Release hydraulic pressure and then use that long rod to unlatch the trunk section to manually lift it up and then subsequently manually lift up the glass roof section.
https://youtu.be/kkRcmRzAXTs
https://youtu.be/kkRcmRzAXTs
I'm already beyond that point. I used the rod to unlock and lift open the rear lid to access the roof panels. The roof panels cannot be lifted until they are unlocked. (The same mechanism that locks the roof panels in the closed position also locks them down when stored in the trunk. The service manual says this is designed as a safety feature in case of a crash.) The service manual also says to release the screw from the hooks that lock it down. That's all it says, just release the screws. It sounds simple but it isn't. The screws are down underneath the locked down roof panel so you are working blind with not much space to get a small ratchet with the Torx bit to break the screws loose and turn them. The screw goes through a pin that gets captured by a hook in the locking mechanism on each side. This is why I am wondering if having the right code scanner would allow for a forced unlocking of the locking mechanism when the roof is locked in the trunk.
I can be done with ISTA-D on a laptop and some decent scanners although I couldn’t which ones.nevwagner said:
If you have a laptop running windows 10 then my advice would be to get ISTA-D, it can seem a bit daunting to install but there are plenty of guides out there.
I question if ISTA_D can actually do this. Why would BMW's manual instruct manual ways of accomplishing this, if it could be done with their software. The manual is written for the dealer, not the general public.
But, I really hope it can. If ISTA_D can do it, ProTool probably can if you know the expert code.
But, I really hope it can. If ISTA_D can do it, ProTool probably can if you know the expert code.
Update: I did get the roof shells unlocked from the stowed position in the trunk! I do not have a code scanner, so I took the car to my excellent Tech-Net Professional mechanics (father & son business). These guys have saved me thousands of dollars with car repairs over 30 years. They tried to access an unlock code with 3 different code scanners, but none of them were suitable. We then made further attempts to remove the screws that are mentioned in the BMW Z4 E89 service manual. A couple of key points to help with the removal of these screws. They are #20 Torx screws. We took the time to remove a liner panel that covers the wall/partition that separates the cockpit from the trunk area. This liner panel has some depth to it which makes it an obstruction for getting a Torx bit on the screws to turn them. With the panels removed, it was possible to put enough pressure on the screw so it could be loosened and turned. (The screws did not turn very easy - seemed like there might be lock-tight on them.) It is important to have the right length Torx bit to turn the screws. Another significant point is that the screws are at somewhat of an angle, so the Torx bit cannot be placed at 90 degrees to the edge of the roof panel. If you don't angle the Torx bit correctly, the result will be stripping out of the head of the screw. The screw passes through a bushing that is about 3/4" long. The hook of the locking mechanism hooks around the bushing. The screws with bushings must be removed from both sides because the locking mechanism has 2 hooks (left & right). Thanks everyone for all your comments!
I also need help. The fuses blew and the roof pack is stowed and locked. The rear module is not locked so I can lift the front of it up. I can also open the trunk lid (thanks to the safety string I added). I opened the two hydraulic valves. I can lift the rear module and roof panel 2 but I can't lift the roof panel 1 as it is locked. I don't understand how to unlock roof panel 1 from the stowed position.
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