Emergency boot release addition

flybobbie

Lifer
Stourbridge
So a few folks having problems raising the boot when the roof fails with rear shell over the top.

I scrapped idea as cable broke, but wired a better solution elsewhere on forum. (2023 edit),
 
It sounds like the wire activates a solonoid to unlatch the lid, so still electrically operated rather than solely mechanical.
Good plan B if the roof malfunctions & keeps the boot shut.
Rob
 
flybobbie said:
Wires seem to pull on something that is hard to see. Well that's the idea, not find myself in a situation where i can't access the boot area, other than using a reader to command it open. Not sure if the Foxwell reader i have has that function.
I can't see how any purely mechanical method would open it unless directly linked to the hooks clamping the boot down. I think the assumption is that power can always be applied via under the bonnet, even with a flat battery.

I suppose if the solonoid goes faulty things would really get difficult? :?
Rob
 
flybobbie said:
So a few folks having problems raising the boot when the roof fails with rear shell over the top.
Unless you have a high level reader, can't open boot to access any boot electronics or valves.
Some folks have fitted the hand pull on those cars not equipped, but still needed access to the boot from the load through hatch if fitted and modded so that it can be removed from inside the cabin.

I was thinking of adding a solenoid to operate what the hand pull would operate, but there is some difficulty tracing any wires out of the boot. So needed some physical entry point to boot.

By chance i looked under the boot badge and there is a black rubber buffer. I pulled it off to reveal a hole (1).
When i poked a drill in it was solid, so i looked behind to see a ring clamping the mechanism in place (5) held by three screws. I removed the screw and could see why the drill was stopped. There is a small semicircle of metal (2).
So i drilled a 4.5mm hole in it. Very easily only thin zinc alloy (3), so that i could pass a 4mm OD nylon tube.
Then refitted the ring (5).
Next i attached the tube via cable ties, then threaded a piece of electrical wire from the outside down the nylon tube and tied it off on the white plastic lever(6) and (7).

Then reassembled the motor mechanism to the boot and trim.
The wire now pokes outside the car under the badge.
For now just left a few centimetres of slack and tied it off with a knot.
So now when i gently pull the wire the boot unlocks and opens, which it won't if the roof has risen and stopped.

Sorry about the noise, was a bit windy today.


Looks like a great idea! is There a chance that while using it, it will damage the electrical system?
 
kunta said:
Looks like a great idea! is There a chance that while using it, it will damage the electrical system?
No, it doesn't.
The only disadvantage I see is, that with this solution in place everybody can open the boot from outside without a key.
 
flybobbie said:
RobbiZ4 said:
kunta said:
Looks like a great idea! is There a chance that while using it, it will damage the electrical system?
No, it doesn't.
The only disadvantage I see is, that with this solution in place everybody can open the boot from outside without a key.

Sush...it will be our little secret 😉

Later i will lock car and see if i can open the boot, i should be able to and see if alarm goes off.

t/you.... i weell
try ... see how it goes ...
 
Smartbear said:
RobbiZ4 said:
flybobbie said:
Well with car locked, can open the boot ...
:whistle:

How would anyone know there’s a home brewed release cable there, a scumbag operating the roundel as normal won’t gain access.
Rob
Indeed, nobobody knows except some guys from a small village, called internet. 🤣
 
thanks for posting this idea

I combined
  • using a bicycle bowden cable (it snaps right into the factory prepared slot)
with
  • leading it out (you know where)


fully insured for boot-lock now, microswitches are on their way
 
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