Same as every other car then; bloody awful job!
Paraffin stove in the footwell instead?
Paraffin stove in the footwell instead?
Electrical assistance needed - N46 cooling pump
- Thread starter enuff_zed
- Start date
Attleborough, Norfolk
Funnily enough, was just saying to bigwinn that I’ll put it back together tomorrow with the pump wired to an ignition live. Live in hope that the fact the pump is running now may help shift the crud. Then leave a woolly hat and gloves in the car and use it anywaysmorris_12 said:
Another little step forwards this morning.
Gave the heater matrix another ten minutes of back and forth flushing, then with the front end on ramps I refilled with properly mixed coolant, whilst having the auxiliary pump connected to the battery terminals to try to help shift any potential air pockets.
Fired it all up and whilst not exactly toasting, it is definitely pushing warm air out. I am still living in hope that this may improve now the pump is circulating water through the matrix.
Only thing left to do now is wire the pump properly to an ignition live and learn to live with it.
Not exactly fixed the initial fault, but bypassed it.
So without a physical link to the motor it is quite possible that the impeller was being stopped by the blocked matrix not allowing any water to flow?
With all the vibration in the engine bay and the smooth running of the pump design it is very difficult to tell if the pump is now running when plugged back in properly. When I get someone to help me I'm going to get them to start the engine while I'm holding the pump, to see if in fact it starts up. I can feel it stop and start, but simply putting my hand on it when it is already running (or not) it is impossible to tell.
Gave the heater matrix another ten minutes of back and forth flushing, then with the front end on ramps I refilled with properly mixed coolant, whilst having the auxiliary pump connected to the battery terminals to try to help shift any potential air pockets.
Fired it all up and whilst not exactly toasting, it is definitely pushing warm air out. I am still living in hope that this may improve now the pump is circulating water through the matrix.
Only thing left to do now is wire the pump properly to an ignition live and learn to live with it.
Not exactly fixed the initial fault, but bypassed it.
[ref]colb[/ref], I dismantled the original pump and found that the impeller is mounted solidly on a magnetic cylinder. The motor is sealed away from the water, the hollow cylinder sits over the sealed section and it spins through an induction principle.colb said:
So without a physical link to the motor it is quite possible that the impeller was being stopped by the blocked matrix not allowing any water to flow?
With all the vibration in the engine bay and the smooth running of the pump design it is very difficult to tell if the pump is now running when plugged back in properly. When I get someone to help me I'm going to get them to start the engine while I'm holding the pump, to see if in fact it starts up. I can feel it stop and start, but simply putting my hand on it when it is already running (or not) it is impossible to tell.
Don't suppose a stethascope will be any good at picking up sound from that impeller then, just the noise from the motor. Might be an idea to temp fix a see through plastic pipe on the outlet and see if you can see a flow, now you have warm air from the heater at least some hot water must be getting through. Leak sealant is all good and well as an emergency fix but best avoided as a long time fix always best to replace the leaking part, easier said than done when its the heater matrix.
When it comes to refilling and getting air out I use a Vaccum Filler like this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393420043034?epid=28011074199&hash=item5b99a9731a:g:L-IAAOSw9DZg3WtX&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8MRAt5O2ZFljVWNV6CkqwBE%2FPaipwIpqnqqUkkBVtfkyCl6nXJXOxjXsI1mp5vXJsSk3EYFVYm%2Bv0PpBPWrMmXeT%2Fj7%2BmfhGtng3P9%2BFh5UtbOdG%2BQbjnhYqUIyNvIu4fwcLBxsUrrJiiVfv7hUg3i%2FLCkQrMnSUenKiCvC4SsKH0L%2BJxGTNBp%2FwPU0bldJOACMJn59GzHxdZ0TncHL%2F0Y9CcpHHXWZS7ZLYgRXaFBNlLFXxom%2Fk%2FBWgEhQRw4L8o0foXJPtCD6JQDuk9tP4QyoSCUuQZpAQRfWJN0zSYDYJSKS%2B5MGNRO5ZLcxBnPUoYQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMxpbBr5Vh
Have done a couple of Z3's with this kit and had no problems with trapped air in the system, it worked really well just needed a second pair of hands to hold the plug secure over the filler on the Rad and maintain the seal. You do need an airline with this kit, suck all the air and coolant residue out so it creates a vaccum in the systen and collapses the hoses. Close the valve on it and check the system maintains the vaccum, if it dosn't then there will be a leak somewhere for you to find. With a good vaccum maintained pick up pipe is dropped into the pre mixed coolant and the intake valve is opened that allows the coolant to be sucked into the system displacving air as it travels into the system. Once full, run the car to temp and have the bleed screw open and monitor for bubbles as any air left is expelled. Tighten the bleed screw when no more air is seen and check the temp guage is steady at 12 o'clock. Test Drive keeping an eye on the guage.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393420043034?epid=28011074199&hash=item5b99a9731a:g:L-IAAOSw9DZg3WtX&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8MRAt5O2ZFljVWNV6CkqwBE%2FPaipwIpqnqqUkkBVtfkyCl6nXJXOxjXsI1mp5vXJsSk3EYFVYm%2Bv0PpBPWrMmXeT%2Fj7%2BmfhGtng3P9%2BFh5UtbOdG%2BQbjnhYqUIyNvIu4fwcLBxsUrrJiiVfv7hUg3i%2FLCkQrMnSUenKiCvC4SsKH0L%2BJxGTNBp%2FwPU0bldJOACMJn59GzHxdZ0TncHL%2F0Y9CcpHHXWZS7ZLYgRXaFBNlLFXxom%2Fk%2FBWgEhQRw4L8o0foXJPtCD6JQDuk9tP4QyoSCUuQZpAQRfWJN0zSYDYJSKS%2B5MGNRO5ZLcxBnPUoYQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMxpbBr5Vh
Have done a couple of Z3's with this kit and had no problems with trapped air in the system, it worked really well just needed a second pair of hands to hold the plug secure over the filler on the Rad and maintain the seal. You do need an airline with this kit, suck all the air and coolant residue out so it creates a vaccum in the systen and collapses the hoses. Close the valve on it and check the system maintains the vaccum, if it dosn't then there will be a leak somewhere for you to find. With a good vaccum maintained pick up pipe is dropped into the pre mixed coolant and the intake valve is opened that allows the coolant to be sucked into the system displacving air as it travels into the system. Once full, run the car to temp and have the bleed screw open and monitor for bubbles as any air left is expelled. Tighten the bleed screw when no more air is seen and check the temp guage is steady at 12 o'clock. Test Drive keeping an eye on the guage.
I must say I've never had any great problems bleeding BMWs.
OTOH, I did once go up a muddy 45deg slope in a 300tdi Disco as the last, and successful, attempt at bleeding the ruddy thing!
OTOH, I did once go up a muddy 45deg slope in a 300tdi Disco as the last, and successful, attempt at bleeding the ruddy thing!