Ed's Zed Thread

Hello everyone,

This has certainly been a long time coming! Here is part one of Ed’s Zed Thread, the rest will follow over the next couple of days.

I've had my '04 3.0i Manual since the end of July 2019. I traded in my trusty '15 1.4L Corsa SE and walked away with just under £1K in my pocket. Best deal I have ever done.

The aim for trading the Corsa was that I wanted something fun and quick - I didn't need any practicality at all any more, it's just me and my Girlfriend. Plus after completely changing jobs from shooting and editing video, into a sales role - I no longer needed to haul kit with me regularly.

It took some searching to find a car I liked that was near enough to me here on the South Coast (Eastbourne ish). I ended up travelling up to Epsom to get the car from Wilson's "Bargain Buys". I got them to do some paint work for me after they tried to knock money off my Corsa for paint! So aside from stone-chips, and corroded 108's the car is was in pretty good condition. It even had full BMW service history, which I will not be continuing with as I try to do everything myself.

PIC 1.jpg

On my test drive a week or two before, I thought I noticed the dreaded tram-lining that I'd read so much about on this very forum. Within a couple of weeks I was 100% positive that the run-flats or the car had to go. It was just awful and honestly quite dangerous in some of the worst cases that I experienced.

I finally got the tyres sorted in September, replacing the front Pozenta’s and rear PS3’s ZP’s with a full set of Uniroyal Rainsport 3’s. The transformation was incredible, there was just so so much more feel when driving and the tram-lining was totally gone. It’s worth noting that the run-flats were actually all pretty new looking, the PS3’s had basically new tread depth, so was able to recoup some money selling these privately. The RS3’s are fantastic in all conditions so far, yes there was a tad more sidewall squish under hard cornering that was noticeable for the first week or so but I don’t notice it anymore. The grip in the wet is almost the same as it is in the dry - incredible - very hard to unstick these. They did get a tad loose when temps dropped below 5c ish though but nothing scary. I only do about 3K miles a year, even with the car as my DD, so these have worn very well so far even with some “spirited” driving.

The next little mod I did was one I knew I wanted to do fairly quickly, the ZHP upgrade. However… I am a bit cheap, so when I discovered via a forum post that there was a knock-off chinese version available for about £6 on eBay, I immediately ordered one. Very happy with how that turned out - I am sure it’s not as good as the real thing but for the price it is fantastic, and way better than the crappy plastic one BMW chose to use.

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Continuing with the interior modding, after seeing a couple of posts on here about all the different interior options the Zed could have come with. I decided I wanted to freshen up my interior. I think the brushed ally is probably the best of the options from the factory, though and I am very glad it wasn’t plastic-y piano black or wood! I settled on carbon after seeing the Z4M option and spending some time in a co-workers A250, the latter of which has a lovely soft touch carbon interior.
I decided to start small with the interior doorhandles as they were already very peely, which is one of the reasons I even looked at wrapping things. I was very happy with how they turned out and definitely wanted to do more bits but hadn’t got the time or the wrap materials.

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A month or so later I was able to get a couple days off in a row and ordered roughly the amount of wrap that I expected to use.
I knew that this was going to be a lot more work than the doorhandles were, mainly due to the way the whole interior is put together. To get all the brushed ally bits out I was going to have to disassemble what was effectively the entire interior. Thanks to a guide over on Pelican Parts I the whole process of taking things out went relatively simply with only a few little struggles along the way. Namely that stupid clip/pin holding the dash piece on!
With everything out of the car and taking up the spare room, I set about disassembling the whole centre console which is held together by an insane number of screws.

Console out.jpg
All the screws.jpg


Allowing myself the best part of two days to take everything out, wrap it and put it back in seemed like plenty of time at the start. It ended up taking several days because I chose to wrap the entirety of the central console, not just the ally bits. I then had to re-do the main aly bit after trimming the wrap back a bit too much on an edge I didn’t think would be visible! This meant waiting for more material to turn up and driving around with a mostly missing interior for a few days. All the buttons were just flopping about with nothing to hold them in place.
It’s been several months since I finished wrapping the dash and centre console and it has held up very well. It really transformed the interior of the car for me and made it a much nicer place to be.

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A few bits aren’t perfectly joined and ideally I’d redo the big ally dash bit as the left edge around the radio is slightly lifted. Thankfully it’s not very obvious and the rest all seems OK!

(I couldn't resist putting this pic in of the dash in it's current state)
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There were a couple of bits I wanted to wrap in carbon that I just never got round to when doing the rest, window switch panels and the steering wheel chrome bits. These have recently been completed during the lockdown and will be covered a little later.

Still to come over the next few days are; Painting Brakes, Full DIY detail - including DA polish, Oil change, VANOS, DISA, HID Kit and whatever else I have forgotten! Plus many more pictures.

Thanks for reading.
 
It’s time for part 2!

I am going to start with a short tale of VANOS and DISA issues. A little while ago I attempted to replace the VANOS O-rings. The problem with having a car as old as this, you never really know what has been done or not - even with “full” service history. An example of this is that I have a receipt for a rear shock… Just one! And so I can only assume that one failed but they only did one side and I don’t know which side that is, even after being under the car with wheels off, I couldn’t tell.

Anyway, as far as I could tell I didn’t have any particular issues related to either the DISA or the VANOS so this was all preventative maintenance. Although given that I haven’t ever driven another Zed it’s entirely possible they needed doing as I have nothing to compare mine to.

I assembled all of my tools, parts from X8R for both DISA and VANOS plus a detailed PDF guide. I also watched what I thought was a great video on YouTube about doing the VANOS, made it look really easy. The only difference between the video and my car…. Their engine was on a stand out of a car. Funnily enough, access to bolts is drastically easier when you don’t have a car in the way!!!

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The first time I attempted to do the VANOS was October 2019. Everything was going well until it came to getting at all the bolts to remove the VANOS unit itself. I just couldn't figure out how to reach them all, some I couldn’t even see let alone undo! So, even though I was basically on the last stage of removal I had to put everything back together without completing it. A very frustrating day, however I did manage to at least change the valve cover gasket successfully. Although I did end up losing one of the bolts for this somewhere in my engine bay - I later found this whilst under the car a couple weeks ago sat on the oil service hatch, after 2K miles and 6 months later!!!! - At the time I replaced the bolt after walking down to my local BMW dealer.


The same day of my VANOS failure I did at least manage to fit the DISA upgrade kit from X8R with no real issues. The original plastic flap did seem to be working absolutely fine and was actually quite hard to remove, not sure the upgrade was needed honestly but I now know it shouldn’t fail.
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The above now bring us to the start of lockdown in the UK.

I knew I had plenty of time on my hands for the next few weeks so I got the car up onto axle stands and prepared to tackle the VANOS once again. This time I removed the front fan and all the related engine bay covers. As soon as I did this I was able to see all the bolts I wasn’t able to get at last time, to be fair it was still a faff to get at but I was able to get a socket on all of them.
Skipping ahead to keep a long story short, I failed again. My right angle pliers that I specifically bought for this job last time were nowhere to be found. I suspect they are in the same place my 19mm spanner I bought for the job last time is as well. Likely to never be found again. Not having the pliers meant I couldn’t pull the caps off the left hand threaded TX30 bolts, no matter how hard I tried with various other pliers I couldn’t get access. So this is a lesson in double checking that you have every tool needed for a job before starting it!

Axlestands.jpg

Everything back together it was time for an oil change, the car had done about 13K miles since it’s last one back in Feb 2019. So whilst the cars service indicator suggested it had another 7K to go before anything needed doing, I feel it was overdue. I just hadn’t had the time. This went smoothly and I did not reset the service thingy on the dash, I will just do it in 7K miles time again

My car is leaking oil, I already discovered this a few months ago when I got the car on the lift at work for a rummage. I am still 99% sure it’s the actual sump that is leaking and not the OFHG, which is the more common issue. However at this time I do not have a gasket nor the spare cash (furloughed) to do it, it also is barely leaking. That may change though and I have come across a method that doesn’t involve dropping the subframe!
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=532503
I might end up giving that a go at my next oil change OR will just give it to an indie to do.

Next up, paint! Basically I painted my calipers, strut/firewall brace and whatever the bar behind the kidney grills is, in a blue that is almost the same as the BMW logo blue. I am very happy with how it turned out. I also painted the bit on the discs that goes rusty in black caliper paint.
I was originally going to do the calipers in the black and was also never going to paint anything else. However a mate of mine from work that I borrowed a big trolley jack from happened to have this blue caliper paint left over from when he used to have a Cleo Cup a few years back. I am so glad he had it, as in my opinion it looks fantastic, even with the “small” stock brakes.

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I did not remove the calipers from the car at all. So yes, when the pads get changed next I suspect I will paint the bits I couldn’t reach. (years away due to them being done not long before I got it and I only do about 3K miles).

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The only prep work I did on the calipers was a scuffing pad, brushing down and then wiping with “paint prep” wipes from Halfords. However for the front grill bar thing I did sand that a lot more aggressively as the factory finish had completely failed in places and was peeling off.

(please excuse the filter paper thing... temp fix for a cockup! Replacement airbox is delayed due to lockdown)
strutbrace painted.jpgPeeling Kidney.jpgIMG_20200412_120303.jpg

A few other bits and bobs to go through in my next post soon! That will include a full multi-stage paint correction and lighting mods.
 
Great updates! Well done for all you've and are attempting. Good to see you have a glass of vodka always at the ready....
 
Some impressive progress already Ed. :thumbsup:

I'm looking forward to future instalments!
 
bearded_ed said:
Basically I painted my calipers, strut/firewall brace and whatever the bar behind the kidney grills is,

Well, whatever the bar behind the kidney grilles is, could you tell me if you removed it through the kidney grilles, or does the top panel have to come off? Thanks.
 
enuff_zed said:
Well, whatever the bar behind the kidney grilles is, could you tell me if you removed it through the kidney grilles, or does the top panel have to come off? Thanks.

I did mine today :)

Very easy to remove it through the kidney grill opening. I used a short 1/4" ratchet with the required T30 bit on it. Plenty of space to access to top two bolts.
The bar is manufactured from aluminium tube so best to have some etch primer in hand if you want to do a 'proper' job.
The factory powder coat seemed to mostly flake off leaving just a few stubborn bits to remove with sandpaper or a dremel.
Last step is to paint it the loudest most garish colour of choice, refit and enjoy a cold beer :thumbsup:
 
enuff_zed said:
bearded_ed said:
Basically I painted my calipers, strut/firewall brace and whatever the bar behind the kidney grills is,

Well, whatever the bar behind the kidney grilles is, could you tell me if you removed it through the kidney grilles, or does the top panel have to come off? Thanks.

Sorry for the late response!!! But yes Goldfish has it right, I was pleasantly surprised to find it comes out without removing the bumper!!
 
Jfgoldfish said:
enuff_zed said:
Well, whatever the bar behind the kidney grilles is, could you tell me if you removed it through the kidney grilles, or does the top panel have to come off? Thanks.

I did mine today :)

Very easy to remove it through the kidney grill opening. I used a short 1/4" ratchet with the required T30 bit on it. Plenty of space to access to top two bolts.
The bar is manufactured from aluminium tube so best to have some etch primer in hand if you want to do a 'proper' job.
The factory powder coat seemed to mostly flake off leaving just a few stubborn bits to remove with sandpaper or a dremel.
Last step is to paint it the loudest most garish colour of choice, refit and enjoy a cold beer :thumbsup:
bearded_ed said:
enuff_zed said:
bearded_ed said:
Basically I painted my calipers, strut/firewall brace and whatever the bar behind the kidney grills is,

Well, whatever the bar behind the kidney grilles is, could you tell me if you removed it through the kidney grilles, or does the top panel have to come off? Thanks.

Sorry for the late response!!! But yes Goldfish has it right, I was pleasantly surprised to find it comes out without removing the bumper!!

Thank you both for the responses.
I was looking at spraying it with Hammerite Smooth Yellow, but now not sure how well that would take to aluminium?
 
enuff_zed said:
not sure how well that would take to aluminium?
I don't think it would take well at all without a primer.
I primed mine but I used the wrong stuff. I can't see it lasting too long before I need to do it again properly.
Painting aluminium is a pain compared to ferrous metals, the finish will fail if it's not done right unfortunately.
I would recommend grabbing some of the hamerite special metals primer or spray etch primer to give it a better chance. It's an easy job but you would probably rather do it just once :thumbsup:
 
Jfgoldfish said:
enuff_zed said:
not sure how well that would take to aluminium?
I don't think it would take well at all without a primer.
I primed mine but I used the wrong stuff. I can't see it lasting too long before I need to do it again properly.
Painting aluminium is a pain compared to ferrous metals, the finish will fail if it's not done right unfortunately.
I would recommend grabbing some of the hamerite special metals primer or spray etch primer to give it a better chance. It's an easy job but you would probably rather do it just once :thumbsup:

OK thanks :thumbsup:
 
bearded_ed said:
Well, it'll last for a bit.

It will. I hope to get atleast a couple of years out of it.
A caliper paint is probably far better at adhering to alloy than hamerite would be.
If I knew it was ally I would have spent the extra fiver on some etch primer.

I am a big fan of the blue you put on yours. Really suits the car.
 
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