EDIT: issue sorted (cyl 6 coil pack) EML dash light on, engine 'grumbling'

[Chris_D]

Good move archie. I know how disconcerting it can be pulling ur engine to bits for the first time and ive also gleaned most of my knowledge from youtube how-to's.
Good that you id'd the 6th coilpack but did you actually swap it for a good one to confirm its actually the coil and not the sparkplug or cable?

No, not yet replaced it as i don't have a spare and as i said i will get a dignostic tool to confirm before i order parts...but based on what i have read its highly likely to be the issue.

Cheers

No, i meant more that you could establish if it is in fact the coilpack by swapping with number 5.
If you notice a change in the engine note by energising then de-energising cylinder 5 with coilpack 6 then you can assume its the coilpack.
If you dont notice a change then it's the number 6 sparkplug, cable or other issue.
a diagnostic tool/software could also confirm this of course. I think you're going to be looking for generic 'misfire' codes though which can point you to several totally different issues.

 

[archieuk84]

Good move archie. I know how disconcerting it can be pulling ur engine to bits for the first time and ive also gleaned most of my knowledge from youtube how-to's.
Good that you id'd the 6th coilpack but did you actually swap it for a good one to confirm its actually the coil and not the sparkplug or cable?

No, not yet replaced it as i don't have a spare and as i said i will get a dignostic tool to confirm before i order parts...but based on what i have read its highly likely to be the issue.

Cheers

No, i meant more that you could establish if it is in fact the coilpack by swapping with number 5.
If you notice a change in the engine note by energising then de-energising cylinder 5 with coilpack 6 then you can assume its the coilpack.
If you dont notice a change then it's the number 6 sparkplug, cable or other issue.
a diagnostic tool/software could also confirm this of course. I think you're going to be looking for generic 'misfire' codes though which can point you to several totally different issues.

Right I see, no i didnt remove the coil packs and switch over but will do. They were not easy to pull out and i didnt want to push my luck!

Cheers

 

[Chris_D]

It's a pretty simple procedure- run engine and remove the cable from the coilpack when in place and listen for changin engine note.
Alternatively this guy is pretty handy with a multimeter testing various components including coils-
[youtube]XcmWa2Bt12U[/youtube]

 

[archieuk84]

It's a pretty simple procedure- run engine and remove the cable from the coilpack when in place and listen for changin engine note.
Alternatively this guy is pretty handy with a multimeter testing various components including coils-
[youtube]XcmWa2Bt12U[/youtube]

What you have described is exactly what I did and described quite clearly myself in my earlier post...what I did not do is remove or swap the actual coils because they were not easy to remove.

 

[Chris_D]

It's a pretty simple procedure- run engine and remove the cable from the coilpack when in place and listen for changin engine note.
Alternatively this guy is pretty handy with a multimeter testing various components including coils-
[youtube]XcmWa2Bt12U[/youtube]

What you have described is exactly what I did and described quite clearly myself in my earlier post...what I did not do is remove or swap the actual coils because they were not easy to remove.

Clear. But you still have to exchange coilpacks to test for coilpack failure. Or just buy a new one and swap in, theyre not that expensive. If it is indeed the coilpack then everythings hunkydory. If it isnt, then you have to diagnose further but at least you wil have a spare coilpack.
There are two types: one with a flap that flips up with a loop that you can use to lift out after removing the cable connector (these are the ones i have and come out easily with a bit of a tug. Always flip the top cover fully up before removing or reinserting the cable connector as it acts as a locking mechanism. The other type i think you have to undo a few screws around each coilpack.
I cant find it back right now but the youtube video i found and followed was by 'nate's diy' channel. Maybe you can take a look there or search for something like 'remove coilpack m54'

 

[archieuk84]

It's a pretty simple procedure- run engine and remove the cable from the coilpack when in place and listen for changin engine note.
Alternatively this guy is pretty handy with a multimeter testing various components including coils-
[youtube]XcmWa2Bt12U[/youtube]

What you have described is exactly what I did and described quite clearly myself in my earlier post...what I did not do is remove or swap the actual coils because they were not easy to remove.

Clear. But you still have to exchange coilpacks to test for coilpack failure. Or just buy a new one and swap in, theyre not that expensive. If it is indeed the coilpack then everythings hunkydory. If it isnt, then you have to diagnose further but at least you wil have a spare coilpack.
There are two types: one with a flap that flips up with a loop that you can use to lift out after removing the cable connector (these are the ones i have and come out easily with a bit of a tug. Always flip the top cover fully up before removing or reinserting the cable connector as it acts as a locking mechanism. The other type i think you have to undo a few screws around each coilpack.
I cant find it back right now but the youtube video i found and followed was by 'nate's diy' channel. Maybe you can take a look there or search for something like 'remove coilpack m54'

Thanks - I know how to remove them (it was clear from BMTroubleU's vid) I just didn't do it last night. As I said they were pretty stubborn. Have the decoder arriving today which will avoid the need for guesswork and a spare coilpack on order, assuming that's the issue.

Cheers

 

[stupot67]

Well done Arthur, I thought it would be a coilpack, but a proper bit of detective work on your part seems to have proved it

Word to the wise, these coil packs are relatively inexpensive (25 quid ish) - buy 2 and keep 1 in the boot, as you've found they can pack up with zero notice.

Stu.

 

[Chris_D]

Well done Arthur, I thought it would be a coilpack, but a proper bit of detective work on your part seems to have proved it

Word to the wise, these coil packs are relatively inexpensive (25 quid ish) - buy 2 and keep 1 in the boot, as you've found they can pack up with zero notice.

Stu.

I don't think the jury is in yet.....

 

[archieuk84]

Well done Arthur, I thought it would be a coilpack, but a proper bit of detective work on your part seems to have proved it

Word to the wise, these coil packs are relatively inexpensive (25 quid ish) - buy 2 and keep 1 in the boot, as you've found they can pack up with zero notice.

Stu.

Thanks Stu

The code reader (went with the C110 device in the end) confirmed a misfire in cylinder 6 and swapped out the coil packs last night and it was indeed the issue (rather than the spark plug or any cabling).

Got one arriving today to change and agree it's best to get another one as I understand a single cylinder coil pack failure can stress the others making them more likely to go.

I was going to change them all (with new plugs to boot) but not sure it's necessary. I only have 3,500 miles to Inspection 2 and understand this will be done then anyway - albeit may be cheaper to do so now myself?

Cheers

 

[archieuk84]

Just to box this one off, pleased to report a fully fit, firing and fast zed again this evening.

Swapped out the failed coil pack in cylinder 6 with a new Bosch component (£30 ish from EuroCarParts delivered in 48 hours) and worked perfectly.

Dash warning light gone and fault code erased and out for a blast with the top down on a perfect autumn evening.

It's only been two short drives with the misfiring cylinder but I had already started to forget the pure pleasure from this machine at its best. It also sounded so quiet at idle / low revs.

What a great hour or so behind the wheel!

 

[GuidoK]

if one goes usually more will follow, due to long exposure to heat. Thats why usually cyl5 or 6 is the first one to go (those cylinders get the hottest because they are at the rear of the block)
So be prepared to swap more (my advice: swap them all)

 

[archieuk84]

if one goes usually more will follow, due to long exposure to heat. Thats why usually cyl5 or 6 is the first one to go (those cylinders get the hottest because they are at the rear of the block)
So be prepared to swap more (my advice: swap them all)

Noted, will heed your advice I think. Assume best to change plugs at the same time?

 

[GuidoK]

You can always do plugs but its not necessary. plugs can last a really long time. 100k miles or more is very normal for todays plugs.