I just replaced front struts and tower mounts on my 2010 E89. We are not BMW mechanics. We are experienced mechanics and common safe practices were applied. We used a 2 post lift. 2 18v impacts 1/2 and 3/8ths, and various hand tools and torque wrenches, common to any garage. I read a recent post were a member paid $2200 for front strut replacement.
These Bilstein B4 #22-183897 and 22-183903 at $122 each were a fair price. Sachs top mounts #SAC-803148 at $41 each
We did each side a bit different in the way we put the strut assembly back in the car. Both ways work ... neither way is really easy. (old guys opinion)
Strut removal notes first are
Lift the car
Remove the drivers side wheel & tire
Spray lube (WD40) on small rubber lines where they clip into holders on the struts.
remove line(s) from retainers by hand. Repeat at the body for maximum movement of these lines later.
Remove 17mm nut from strut tab releasing the brake line. Remove the 18mm pinch bolt at the lower mount.
Remove 2 of 3 top 13mm nuts at the tower leaving the one furthest from the center of the car. Loosen the remaining one until the nut is flush with the end of the threads. Drive a wedge into the split in the lower mount. Any chisel or drift of the proper size works good. The object it to force open the collar the strut base is in. You may need to spray a bit of rust solvent in here. We used a pair of spring compression clamps here to reduce the length of the strut assembly by about 50mm. You will need spring compressors for the job. I used these here > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR8BBZL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I ended up shortening them 50 mm and putting a 13mm ID pipe spacer about 140mm on the thread nearest the drive nut.
We used a long steel bar commonly called a pry-bar put in over the caliper and the bar tip in under the frame, making it easy to apply downward force on the wheel hub and brake assembly to ultimately slide the pinch collar off of the strut. Then moving the strut end to one side being careful not to injure the small rubber lines all the time. Remove the 3rd top bolt and lower the strut assembly out of the car. The strut comes out with the mount assembly installed. Phew.
Strut exchange Note you have right and left struts!
Now on the bench we remove the top center nut to release the strut mount... not the position of the 2 washers between the spring cap and the mount. They will be reused in the same positions. Pull the rubber boot off through the top of the spring and pull the strut out the bottom of the spring. Remove the rubber bumper from the strut's spring base and place it on the new strut. Put the new strut in the spring aligning the spring end with the rubber bumper end. Ultimately this is where the end of the spring must be - keep an eye on it. It likes to move around.
Stand the strut up on the bench top with the spring in place. Place the spring top on the spring and again rotate until the spring coil end aligns with the stop. Place the 2 washers from the old assembly on to the new strut shaft and fit the new (or used) top mount. Install the retaining nut. If the strut shaft spins when the nut is tightened (we used 1/2 " electric impact) release spring compressors until much force is applied to the mount and shaft making it possible to run the nut down good and solid. Re-tension the springs for installation if needed.
Strut install
Put the strut back in in the opposite order. For us it took 2 men. One handling the strut, one bolt to the top mount, and the other with the pry bar lowering the hub until the strut could pop into the pinch collar.
This was pretty much a bitch for 2 old guys - lol. Which is why we tried method #2 on the second side. Side 2 we inserted the strut into the pinch collar. Lubing and fully seating the strut with a hammer...then prying the hub down and tilting the top in.......easier said than done. THis method required more force prying the hub downward Note! on the right side we found a small switch and linkage arm that needed to be disconnected before strut removal. ( 10 mm)
Both ways worked if I did it again I would use the top first attachment.
When we attached the top first we used the weight of the car to seat the strut fully into the collar by placing a post under the support arm and lowering the car until the strut was pushed fully into the collar. Easy Peasy.
Reverse order of fastening... and wheels afixed... refreshments all around.
I'm happy to answer any question I can about this, just ask.
These Bilstein B4 #22-183897 and 22-183903 at $122 each were a fair price. Sachs top mounts #SAC-803148 at $41 each
We did each side a bit different in the way we put the strut assembly back in the car. Both ways work ... neither way is really easy. (old guys opinion)
Strut removal notes first are
Lift the car
Remove the drivers side wheel & tire
Spray lube (WD40) on small rubber lines where they clip into holders on the struts.
remove line(s) from retainers by hand. Repeat at the body for maximum movement of these lines later.
Remove 17mm nut from strut tab releasing the brake line. Remove the 18mm pinch bolt at the lower mount.
Remove 2 of 3 top 13mm nuts at the tower leaving the one furthest from the center of the car. Loosen the remaining one until the nut is flush with the end of the threads. Drive a wedge into the split in the lower mount. Any chisel or drift of the proper size works good. The object it to force open the collar the strut base is in. You may need to spray a bit of rust solvent in here. We used a pair of spring compression clamps here to reduce the length of the strut assembly by about 50mm. You will need spring compressors for the job. I used these here > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR8BBZL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I ended up shortening them 50 mm and putting a 13mm ID pipe spacer about 140mm on the thread nearest the drive nut.
We used a long steel bar commonly called a pry-bar put in over the caliper and the bar tip in under the frame, making it easy to apply downward force on the wheel hub and brake assembly to ultimately slide the pinch collar off of the strut. Then moving the strut end to one side being careful not to injure the small rubber lines all the time. Remove the 3rd top bolt and lower the strut assembly out of the car. The strut comes out with the mount assembly installed. Phew.
Strut exchange Note you have right and left struts!
Now on the bench we remove the top center nut to release the strut mount... not the position of the 2 washers between the spring cap and the mount. They will be reused in the same positions. Pull the rubber boot off through the top of the spring and pull the strut out the bottom of the spring. Remove the rubber bumper from the strut's spring base and place it on the new strut. Put the new strut in the spring aligning the spring end with the rubber bumper end. Ultimately this is where the end of the spring must be - keep an eye on it. It likes to move around.
Stand the strut up on the bench top with the spring in place. Place the spring top on the spring and again rotate until the spring coil end aligns with the stop. Place the 2 washers from the old assembly on to the new strut shaft and fit the new (or used) top mount. Install the retaining nut. If the strut shaft spins when the nut is tightened (we used 1/2 " electric impact) release spring compressors until much force is applied to the mount and shaft making it possible to run the nut down good and solid. Re-tension the springs for installation if needed.
Strut install
Put the strut back in in the opposite order. For us it took 2 men. One handling the strut, one bolt to the top mount, and the other with the pry bar lowering the hub until the strut could pop into the pinch collar.
This was pretty much a bitch for 2 old guys - lol. Which is why we tried method #2 on the second side. Side 2 we inserted the strut into the pinch collar. Lubing and fully seating the strut with a hammer...then prying the hub down and tilting the top in.......easier said than done. THis method required more force prying the hub downward Note! on the right side we found a small switch and linkage arm that needed to be disconnected before strut removal. ( 10 mm)
Both ways worked if I did it again I would use the top first attachment.
When we attached the top first we used the weight of the car to seat the strut fully into the collar by placing a post under the support arm and lowering the car until the strut was pushed fully into the collar. Easy Peasy.
Reverse order of fastening... and wheels afixed... refreshments all around.
I'm happy to answer any question I can about this, just ask.
