E89 roof won't close.

[Classiccarman2]

The roof closing sequence won't start on my E89. You get the dreaded dong and red roof symbol on the dash.
I had trouble last winter with water leaks which soaked the pump motor which I had to strip down and dry out. Luckily it cured the problem. This time it was perfectly dry inside with a bit of a damp cradle sponge. I have checked the salmon relays which look ok but is there any way of manually closing the roof? Is there anything elsewhere I can check with the roof retracted? I will have to dig out my dongle to read the fault codes if there is any.

 

[Ole gits rule]

Is it the microswitches, they seem to be a common fault, plenty of threads on here if you do a search but Robbie Z4 is the go to guy for roof issues

 

[RobbiZ4]

I have my roof stuck in the closed condition.
Last winter I discovered a flooded battery well which I dried out. The sponge was sodden. I removed the pump motor which was full of black water and cleaned and dried it. I topped up the fluid reservoir and luckily this seemed to cure the problem after a few cycles to bleed the hydraulics.

This spring I checked for water and the sponge cradle was damp, blut the motor was ok. The roof opened ok but now I can't close it. You just get the dong and the red roof symbol on the dash. I have removed and checked the salmon relays which seem to work ok. I noticed they are different pin connections from standard relays so you have to buy the BMW item

Is there anything else I can check? It's a bit difficult to check anything with the roof stuck in the boot.

The roof closing sequence won't start on my E89. You get the dreaded dong and red roof symbol on the dash.
I had trouble last winter with water leaks which soaked the pump motor which I had to strip down and dry out. Luckily it cured the problem. This time it was perfectly dry inside with a bit of a damp cradle sponge. I have checked the salmon relays which look ok but is there any way of manually closing the roof? Is there anything elsewhere I can check with the roof retracted? I will have to dig out my dongle to read the fault codes if there is any.

The internal NTC component may be destroyed due to the long lasting water in the pump's motor.


You can measure its resistor value with a multimeter on the 2 pins of the violett wires on the 4-pole motor plug. Should be about 50kOhm at room temperature. If it's much lower or below 7 kOhm, the value get's interpreted as an overheated pump.