E89 Roof Problem / Query

Hi All

I have a bit of a weird one with my E89 roof at the moment, the timing for it to lower seems to be out of sync, and all the components are sort of crashing into each other

Has anyone had this before ? I haven't tried to put it down for a little while as I've had the car off the road, whilst I save money to go abroad.
 
Never heard of this, and I'm sure I've read RobbiZ4 state this cannot actually happen.
Has someone fitted the wrong pump/motor at some point perhaps? Definitely needs a specialist on this one.
 
Stash36 said:
Never heard of this, and I'm sure I've read RobbiZ4 state this cannot actually happen.
Has someone fitted the wrong pump/motor at some point perhaps? Definitely needs a specialist on this one.

Cheers bud, it was working OK- I will try it again to see.
 
when you say lower, do you mean lower the roof sections into the boot on the way down?

if so it sounds exactly like my issue which I've literally just finished sorting out this morning - the two hall sensors needed replacing in my boot (right hand side, under the hydraulic arm) - once the rear window (the cowl / glass bit) had lifted onto the roof it immediately started cycloing backwards before the boot had had a chance to fully open and they would smash into each-other, or at least would have if I hadn't stopped the cycle.

i'd wait and see if robbie confirms it (do you have or have access to a code reader at all, like a carly or a foxwell?) but you might be needing to do a little bit of dyi.
 
So as you can see from the photo, the boot appears to be out of movement /sync with the opening operation, therefore can't really use it at the moment
 

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Is the battery fully charged given its been standing?

My roof has been playing up similarly to yours, do you have a flashing red light?

I had a flashing red light and mine got stuck in a similar position to your picture, but bizarrely I just thought I'd try charging the battery and as soon as I hooked up the battery the red light went out.

Might be coincidence might not
 
EXACTLY the same problem I had, and like I said, solved it on Sunday by changing two small sensors on the right hand side of the boot space. As Robbie described it to me, the sensors essentially tell the roof the boot is open and in this case (with them broken) the roof thinks its open when it is not.

I can talk you through the repair if you want but there are many many threads on here about changing 'hall sensors', I'd suggest that you read this - https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=122832 as a start.

if you have trouble finding the parts you need feel free to drop me a message and I'll dig out my emails from a few months back. be happy if you needed to call me too, I dealt with the frustration for a long time!
 
bte123 said:
EXACTLY the same problem I had, and like I said, solved it on Sunday by changing two small sensors on the right hand side of the boot space. As Robbie described it to me, the sensors essentially tell the roof the boot is open and in this case (with them broken) the roof thinks its open when it is not.

I can talk you through the repair if you want but there are many many threads on here about changing 'hall sensors', I'd suggest that you read this - https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=122832 as a start.

if you have trouble finding the parts you need feel free to drop me a message and I'll dig out my emails from a few months back. be happy if you needed to call me too, I dealt with the frustration for a long time!

Oh right, if you can dig out the parts needed that will be very very helpful, are they easy to change ?

The car has been standing but I do start it on a weekly basis and take it around my road, so wouldn't think the battery would be an issue
 
Msport said:
Is the battery fully charged given its been standing?

My roof has been playing up similarly to yours, do you have a flashing red light?

I had a flashing red light and mine got stuck in a similar position to your picture, but bizarrely I just thought I'd try charging the battery and as soon as I hooked up the battery the red light went out.

Might be coincidence might not

Maybe I will see if I can do this too.
 
Did you find out what the problem was and did you manage to fix it? I have the exact same problem. The battery seems ok as I've just done 1000 mile trip and no problems starting.
The boot section doesn't open quickly enough before the rear screen section fouls it just as your blue circles on your photo indicate. I can assist the boot section manually or jiggle up then down a few times and it will eventually open right up to allow the window section to fold right down without fouling. There is plenty of hydraulic oil in the reservoir although the foam is wet at the bottom, just drying it out.
 
Thanks for your PM bte123. It appears I cant reply directly yet as not enough posts but I shall order the sensors as so excellently described and will get back to you if I have problems. A neighbour who has had many BMWs has a scanner I can ask him to scan for codes when he has time just to make sure there is nothing else. I suspect it is the sensors in the boot as there was water in the hydraulic motor foam presumably making a damp environment.
 
Cymbaline said:
Thanks for your PM bte123. It appears I cant reply directly yet as not enough posts but I shall order the sensors as so excellently described and will get back to you if I have problems. A neighbour who has had many BMWs has a scanner I can ask him to scan for codes when he has time just to make sure there is nothing else. I suspect it is the sensors in the boot as there was water in the hydraulic motor foam presumably making a damp environment.

Hope you get it sorted mate. i hope to get mine sorted soon, once the car passes the MOT this week
 
Something that surprised me about the Hall sensor design, they can be activated by passing steel next to them.
Would have been more logical to have the magnet in the piston, not built into the sensor.
So if a Hall switch comes lose, it has to only lie next to steel to be triggered.
 
IMG_20230623_092008.jpgIMG_20230623_092024.jpg
My neighbour put his scanner on this morning and low and behold.................Seems like confirmation of the problem. Luckily no other faults flagged up so that was reassuring. Awaiting the parts to arrive.
 
Stash36 said:
...and I'm sure I've read RobbiZ4 state this cannot actually happen.
No, no, no.
It can and it will happen sooner or later!
Reason is a rusty hallsensor on the right ram in the trunk.
 
RobbiZ4 said:
Stash36 said:
...and I'm sure I've read RobbiZ4 state this cannot actually happen.
No, no, no.
It can and it will happen sooner or later!
Reason is a rusty hallsensor on the right ram in the trunk.

I've purchased a few items that BTE123 has PM'ed me with. including a 2 series hall sensor, hopefully i get this resolved soon
 
This driving me nuts. I replaced the two hall sensors and the roof went straight up as it should, the boot lid opened fully (which it didn't before) then the roof folds down into the boot (I was thinking "great I've cracked it) but then the boot lid wont close. Is there any way to check the sensor in case it's faulty or is there some other switch which tells the system that the roof is fully stowed and then allows the boot to close that isn't working. Any help appreciated.
 
Cymbaline said:
...or is there some other switch which tells the system that the roof is fully stowed and then allows the boot to close that isn't working. Any help appreciated.
There is another microswitch on the upper right in the trunk, that detects the landing of the roof package. It's very seldom, that there is a fault on it. Typically you can measure it's resistance, 570 or 2.770 ohms.

In addition, the front locking system also locks in the trunk before the trunk lid starts lowering. Are the any covers or other parts blocking the package?
 
RobbiZ4 said:
Cymbaline said:
...or is there some other switch which tells the system that the roof is fully stowed and then allows the boot to close that isn't working. Any help appreciated.
There is another microswitch on the upper right in the trunk, that detects the landing of the roof package. It's very seldom, that there is a fault on it. Typically you can measure it's resistance, 570 or 2.770 ohms.

In addition, the front locking system also locks in the trunk before the trunk lid starts lowering. Are the any covers or other parts blocking the package?

Oh man thanks so much. The roof section wasn't quite locating properly. slight pressure on it whilst operating switch and it closed. Now it works fine every time. I don't know what it was but what pleasure to see it operate as it should. Just have to tidy up wiring and put the lining back. Thanks to all who have helped on here especially bte123.
 
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