E89 Roof Grief and windows won't go up

W

wentworth3

Member
 Houston, TX
Howdy Chaps!

So I attempted to put the top down via the key and it went part way, then gave up about 10 days ago. I manually shoved the rear shell down and drove home. My Foxwell 510 Elite code reader indicated that there is a hall sensor issue. I ordered another hall sensor, which doesn't seem to have resolved the issue. So, I made my own version of the BMW top locking tool and secured the rear shell (yeah!) but I cannot put the windows up. Side bar - I am not even remotely well pleased at present.

My wife has acknowledged my valiant efforts, but has indicated that I should take it to the dealer.

Does anyone know of a window reset override? Fortunately I have a much loved and well maintained 2003 330xi E46 to drive to work, but the Zed4 is seriously chapping my hide.

https://i.imgur.com/F3aj7KQ.jpg

Any tips to get the windows to work? Thanks in advance!!

https://i.imgur.com/3tARuLU.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/694f55p.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iaS3E71.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mt1Kew0.png
 
An old battery which is below par can cause issues, the salmon relays down by the battery are advised to be changed every 5years or so as well. These items may help.
Rob
 
I'm assuming if the system doesn't know the roof is locked, it won't allow the windows up.

My window problem was a bad connection on the door switch. Windows got stuck down. I did notice the internal illumination wasn't on in the switch, so assumed a bad earth. Door panel off, i removed the connector, cleaned and made sure all the pins were all pushed home. Reconnected and no problem since.
 
flybobbie said:
I'm assuming if the system doesn't know the roof is locked, it won't allow the windows up.

My window problem was a bad connection on the door switch. Windows got stuck down. I did notice the internal illumination wasn't on in the switch, so assumed a bad earth. Door panel off, i removed the connector, cleaned and made sure all the pins were all pushed home. Reconnected and no problem since.
Click to expand...

I disconnected my battery and wiggled all the connectors and my problem went away. Think my battery is on it's way out though so pretty sure that was the culprit
 
Windows won't go up unless the root has latched. It could be a multitude of things, but trying the battery is free, quick and might sort you out. Full details of my problems are here: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=118838
 
Thanks for the suggestions and links! I know an awful lot more about convertible tops than I ever wanted to at this point. I already switched out the salmon relays and ordered a new wiring harness, since I am now convinced there is a broken wire which is causing the A68C Hall Sensor, roof shell 2, packed message.
 
I had a problem with my windows staying down, no matter what I did they wouldn't wind up.
Someone then said take the key out of the fob and lock and unlock the car manually, was told it's a system reset.
Anyway long story short it worked and not had the issue again 🤞
 
Semi-update. I got thoroughly fed up and brought it to a indy BMW shop. The shop found a broken wire in the harness and that seemed to fix the issue. They got the top to go up and down about 6 times, then they buttoned everything up and got the same hall sensor error. TNow the top is up and the windows work, so I can drive the sucker at least. The indy shop is convinced that the issue lies with a faulty convertible top module. They are 100% certain that there are no other wiring faults... They swapped the hall sensors around including using the new one that I bought and get the same error. I ordered another control module from ECS Tuning and hope that will resolve the issue.

During the interim, I am going to pull fuse 12 in hopes that will make the damn top error beeping chime thingy stop :headbang: .
 
Much appreciated! I thought that fuse 12 might do the trick per the last line of this article. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/...-sunroof-soft-top/54-37-folding-roof/9fxdHrMZ No dice. Much to my dismay, I discovered that the gong sound is provided via the speakers / amp, so as you correctly noted, pulling the amp fuse is the only way to defeat it.

I was able to make it much less annoying by turning my surround volume all the way down and the gong volume all the way down via the audio controls on the stereo. Again, thanks for the clue about the amp!
 
Much appreciated RobbiZ4. I have read a number of your posts and I appreciate you sharing your deep Z4 knowledge re: Salmon relays and the like. I responded to your extremely helpful post at https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681475 and any insight you could provide as to whether or not I have the right CTM or whether the new one can be programmed to go into backwards compatibility mode would be most welcome!
 
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