E89 N20 Timing Chain and Oil Drive Chain
- Thread starter Reamesy
- Start date
Scottish Borders
Whitchurch
So….got my car back last week. They rechecked everything and “apparently” found nothing wrong. They updated the DME and it’s been fine since.
My thoughts are; either they found something and are not being honest, or the engine management had adjusted over time to my very slack timing chain then through a wobble when it all became tight.
Resetting adaptations may have set it right. I will never know.
I would like to think the latter but they seamed very confident it was sorted
It only through one code after numpty here forget to connect the MAF sensor after detailing the bay
My thoughts are; either they found something and are not being honest, or the engine management had adjusted over time to my very slack timing chain then through a wobble when it all became tight.
Resetting adaptations may have set it right. I will never know.
I would like to think the latter but they seamed very confident it was sorted
It only through one code after numpty here forget to connect the MAF sensor after detailing the bay
FWIW I don’t buy DME adaptive cam chain slack / timing…
For sure fuel trims, ignition timing…
With hindsight I’d suggest that anyone with an E89 treats the sets a decent code reader…but like people used to buy spark plug spanners…
As you say, it’s fixed now, hopefully many trouble free miles of motoring now
For sure fuel trims, ignition timing…
With hindsight I’d suggest that anyone with an E89 treats the sets a decent code reader…but like people used to buy spark plug spanners…
As you say, it’s fixed now, hopefully many trouble free miles of motoring now
Moral of the story for me is next time, do it myself.B21 said:FWIW I don’t buy DME adaptive cam chain slack / timing…
For sure fuel trims, ignition timing…
With hindsight I’d suggest that anyone with an E89 treats the sets a decent code reader…but like people used to buy spark plug spanners…
As you say, it’s fixed now, hopefully many trouble free miles of motoring now
I knew it needed doing when I bought it but didn’t realise just how bad it was.True-Blue said:It looks like you weren’t too far away from a disaster there :?
I bet you’re breathing a big sigh of relief after seeing those pics
First time I’ve had it over 3500rpm. Pleasantly surprised by the performance
Deepseaskateboard
Senior member
Reamesy said:I knew it needed doing when I bought it but didn’t realise just how bad it was.True-Blue said:It looks like you weren’t too far away from a disaster there :?
I bet you’re breathing a big sigh of relief after seeing those pics
First time I’ve had it over 3500rpm. Pleasantly surprised by the performance
What did you notice prior to this?
Is the scoring on the plastic a bad thing, or the broken ring clip thing more the major thing here?
I didnt think the damage looked too bad, but:
A: I don’t know what I’m looking for
B: Don’t know too much about engines!
Any advice would be appreciated.
I would suggest this engine was possibly likely to be terminally compromised at any time for two sets of reasons..
You don’t know how much more tensioner plastic disintegration would result in the cam chain loosing tension and as a result jumping one or more sprockets with the result that the valves would hit the pistons….good night Vienna in a very sudden way…
Separately the plastic swarf from this destruction could clog up the oil passages and /or oil filter resulting in oil starvation to one or more critical bearing surfaces and / or oil pump…
If you were lucky you could get all 3..however any one is an engine write off..
You don’t know how much more tensioner plastic disintegration would result in the cam chain loosing tension and as a result jumping one or more sprockets with the result that the valves would hit the pistons….good night Vienna in a very sudden way…
Separately the plastic swarf from this destruction could clog up the oil passages and /or oil filter resulting in oil starvation to one or more critical bearing surfaces and / or oil pump…
If you were lucky you could get all 3..however any one is an engine write off..
Agree with B21. Sump and filter were clean with all the bits accounted for.
It was the noise on start up which has now gone from the rattle of the chain plus a wine caused by slack on the guides and tensioner. Also chain stretch.
Everything is quite and drives perfectly but it did drive well before.
It was the noise on start up which has now gone from the rattle of the chain plus a wine caused by slack on the guides and tensioner. Also chain stretch.
Everything is quite and drives perfectly but it did drive well before.
Deepseaskateboard
Senior member
Reamesy said:
As I see, thanks.
I didn't consider the plastic swarf.
I will upload a video of mine running, perhaps you could listen to it and see if it sounds bad!! I have no idea.
This is a job I would like to do after Christmas, because N20.
Update
After covering 500 miles, tonight I got the engine management light again. This time the code was 2D60: 0x2D60 VANOS, outlet: control error, camshaft jammed. This is relating to the exhaust vanos valve again.
On reading, BMW advise when replacing the timing chain and components that this is a use once bolt/valve. It is made from aluminium so it stretches. I thought I could get away with this but obviously not.
Next step. Check the oil filter cap is intact internally, as if the cage has been discarded (often done by spanner monkeys that don’t know what they are doing) then oil pressure will not be obtained (had this on my previous N52 engine Z4).
Replace both VANOS valves with genuine updated new parts. It should have been done as a recall but you never know.
I will need to buy a timing locking kit which I can loan out if anyone else needs it.
I will be doing this myself as its no major procedure. Just a lot of removal of parts to get to the area required.
I will update shortly after the work has been done.
After covering 500 miles, tonight I got the engine management light again. This time the code was 2D60: 0x2D60 VANOS, outlet: control error, camshaft jammed. This is relating to the exhaust vanos valve again.
On reading, BMW advise when replacing the timing chain and components that this is a use once bolt/valve. It is made from aluminium so it stretches. I thought I could get away with this but obviously not.
Next step. Check the oil filter cap is intact internally, as if the cage has been discarded (often done by spanner monkeys that don’t know what they are doing) then oil pressure will not be obtained (had this on my previous N52 engine Z4).
Replace both VANOS valves with genuine updated new parts. It should have been done as a recall but you never know.
I will need to buy a timing locking kit which I can loan out if anyone else needs it.
I will be doing this myself as its no major procedure. Just a lot of removal of parts to get to the area required.
I will update shortly after the work has been done.
Update
Finally got everything I needed. Calibrated torque wrench and torque angle dial. Along with locking timing tool and the new parts. £197 from BMW.
On checking the timing the exhaust cam was approximately 2 degrees out. New valves installed. Timing checked twice. All good so far. Time will tell.
Total time was four hours and two cup of teas.
Finally got everything I needed. Calibrated torque wrench and torque angle dial. Along with locking timing tool and the new parts. £197 from BMW.
On checking the timing the exhaust cam was approximately 2 degrees out. New valves installed. Timing checked twice. All good so far. Time will tell.
Total time was four hours and two cup of teas.
Attachments
USA
Deepseaskateboard
Senior member
ric19 said:
Possibly, but there are clauses.
They can only replace with new genuine parts, and most warranties won’t pay for a repair worth more than the value of the car, or a set value per claim. They won’t use a donor engine etc.
They always find a way not to pay out!
Have a look in your small print.