E89 Idle Engine Issue (Shutdown or Drops Hard)

[JockinJD]

Having an issue that's existed for a while but seems too potentially more of a problem lately.

It's been at the mechanics to do testing such as air flow tests to see if any pipes are split or sensors and these haven't shown problems.

I'm reading a lot about the IAC Valve (Idle Air Control Valve) needing cleaning due to carbon build ups but online seems to show two completely different models perhaps due to the E85 and E89 using two different ones.

Does anyone know firstly what he IAC Valve looks like on an E89 and where it's positioned?

Attached are two youtube links that give both scenarios where I could drive for 20 minutes pull over and within 15 seconds the idle starts to misbehave or engine stall. Could in a different scenario take 5 minutes before anything starts to happen, but when it does start to go south the car shakes when the rough idling happens.

2009 BMW e89 Sdrive 23i

Uploaded some videos to show behaviour

idling shut down scenario
[youtube] https://youtu.be/Oi1GoA4sY_g [/youtube]

idling rpm dropping scenario
[youtube] https://youtu.be/5M3uQpa33_0 [/youtube]

What i'm asking for in a way is to know if anyone has had this issue on their E89 and what steps they took to resolve? I'm keen to stat with checking the IAC Valve, but really want any insight/assistance from you guys who know more about this great car!

No issues when applying revs ever.

Josh

 

[tintoverano]

hi, what engine?

 

[JockinJD]

Oh whoops good point, updated original post regarding.

Its the 2009 BMW e89 Sdrive 23i

 

[tintoverano]

any fault codes perhaps?

 

[JockinJD]

A fault code does appear when the issue is happening but the mechanic has stated it's not related to it at all, i'll actually get the error it states tomorrow to give that extra detail probably should of waited to have the list of any bits of work done over the last week.

 

[tintoverano]

yeah, try to get all the codes

reason can be a couple of things, depending on what was serviced and when: spark plugs, injectors, ...

 

[tintoverano]

it is also possible to record live engine data

need a laptop, cable and software

see the video I made for such a SW in my signature

 

[Phil40]

Hi JockinJD Hi tintoverano
Quick question : is it possible to increase "default" idle engine ?
Mine (engine T° normal) is around 600rpm. It will be better about 800rpm (better noise engine).... :roll: :driving:

 

[tintoverano]

never tried on a z4, but it is possible using ISTA+

let me know if you want to give it a try

 

[Phil40]

You mean ISTA-D (not ISTA-P) ? It can be great if value (new idle rpm) is saved after engine off...

:driving:

 

[tintoverano]

yeah, D and it gets saved

 

[JockinJD]

Lets put my post back on track hey

So I spent time with my Mechanic and carried out some more tests for this issue after a 15 minute drive. Please read all including the ending.

So putting it through a scanner and running checks whilst idling shows an error 2D06 - Air Mass System error. (See attached) and also included is the graph results of a test. After doing the 15 minute drive, within a minute of the engine running on idle the engine went from 600 rpm to 250 up to 800 (car shaking) then 45 seconds later did the same again then a minute later it went down rpm and then engine shut off.

Work mechanic has done and tested.
- Fuel Pressure Test
- 5-bar running pressure
- 4.5 bar engine pressure
- MAF Replaced (Continental Part (should be oem))
- All connectors cleaned
- Air leaks checked

Now here's the interesting thing, so obviously had the engine immediately running idle after the 15 minute drive, the rpm went crazy twice within 3 minutes with it at the end, the engine dieing.
I then immediately cut the engine and unplug this new MAF sensor, switch back on with the sensor and the engine ran flawless for 12 minutes no issue, no blips nothing...
Then plug the sensor back in, bear in mind this is a new MAF sensor and the engine acted the same before this new part, within 90 seconds the engine had switched off.

Currently looking to find someone with the same model or engine that uses the same Sensor, to test a confirmed working one. Hopefully will get to do this Wednesday evening, praying to god it proves the continental/bmw sensor I have is the problem.

Does anyone know if it must be an exact BMW MAF sensor needed for the car? Had problems using a Continental version? Cost around £250 from BMW, but hopeful this test proves it and i'll pay the cost.

Thanks chaps.

 

[tintoverano]

isn't it something with wrong adaptations?

what does INPA show?

 

[JockinJD]

Can you elaborate?

 

[tintoverano]

I'd check what INPA shows under live analog data, if there's anything

if all seems normal, try cleaning vanos solenoids and/or try using some oil/fuel additives to clean stuff

 

[ph001]

As you have the N52, the first thing to check for would be oil contamination on the eccentric shaft sensor (if you search for that on here you will see plenty of helpful posts). Unplugging the MAF causes the ECU to run on a default map so it may disregard some other sensors also - which can certainly cause confusion!!

I would suspect either a problem with the eccentric shaft sensor or the valvetronic motor.

 

[JockinJD]

Hello,

Just wanted to confirm what the fix was should anyone stumble on this when suffereing from a similar issue.

Issue was: Test for air mass and manifold pressure sensor found pressure to have no signal to DME, so it required a new pressure sensor which now reports and the idle issues have gone.

Thanks for points that lead to the fix chaps.

It can be placed for sale and I feel good it's all working

 

[ph001]

Thanks for updating and thats the first time I have ever heard of the MAP sensor failing so rare indeed. At least it very easy to get to and change

 

[Naylz]

Resurrecting this post…so my 2.3i 2010 E89 decided to cutout when sat stationary in traffic, it starts again no bother. There are two codes 2D2A differential pressure sensor, intake manifold adaption and 2D06 air mass system. Upon reset the 2D06 clears and 2D2A remains, when left idling for a few minutes it just cuts out and 2D06 comes back.

I am planning to check the cleanliness of the throttle body and obviously check for any leaks, splits on my way to the body. I am also going to pull the MAP sensor, does anyone know if this is a cleanable sensor or not?

I know unplugging the MAF sensor means it won’t cut out but also doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the MAF sensor, I have tried and confirmed this.

I have an AUTOPHIX 7910, does anyone know if that can that test the MAP sensor?…ie what would I need to look for on the data stream??

I will also check the DISA and most likely give Vanos solenoids a clean too but don’t think they are the issue here.

Any tips or pointers will be very much appreciated

….ooo just remembered an issue I had on my 2.5i E85 where the wiring looms were loose where they plugged into that big black box thing at the back Righthand side of the engine bay…I will check that too

 

[mcbutler]

Oh whoops good point, updated original post regarding.

Its the 2009 BMW e89 Sdrive 23i

Its in your original post bud