Hi I drove a BMW with a LSD yesterday first time since my cosworth days so I am fitting a quaife into my 3.0si it will come built complete any idea how long diff out/in may take. I was also thinking of changing the antiroll bar and bushes at the same time anybody done either jobs before. Thanks
e86 3.0 si LSD
- Thread starter cossied
- Start date
As Si says i have done it.
If you have all the right tools and accesses to lift (ideally i did mine on axle stands) You could do it in a day or over a weekend. I didn't use a quaife but it should be exactly the same process. Disconnect drive shaft prop shaft and get the diff out. Then drain the oil and remove the back plate.Take the out put shaft oil seal out (you will destroy them doing this so get new ones) Then remove the big curclips make sure you have a big removal tool. remove the tapered spacer and mark them left and right and dont muddle them up. repeat for the other side. Now is the bit that gets tricky take the old diff out. You will need to remove the old bearings. One end is really easy and you can get a bearing puller on. I struggled with the opposite end. I ended up spinning the diff in a lathe and putting in an under cut so i could get the pullers on. Others have knife edge pullers that have worked. Some have used so very careful blows with a hammer and chisel. Once there off remover the gear ring and reassemble with the new diff.
The ARB is easy what are you planing on replacing it with or are you just doing the bushes? I would recommend buying all the little brackets that go with the ARB new your old ones will be very rusty.
I took bluming ages doing mine as i striped the whole rear axle new bushes everywhere. Striped paint and repainted and also made adjustable control arms and RTAB limiting bushes. I also repainted the underside of the car and had to relocate the fuel breather system for the exhaust that i made to go in. So my 2.5 month project was a little different.
I wish you all the best its makes a huge difference and is well worth doing. If you have worked on cars and have an understanding and a decent selection of tools you should be ok. Myself and Yorkie z have done this so if you need a hand just ask.
The only tools i had to buy where torqes sockets.
If you have all the right tools and accesses to lift (ideally i did mine on axle stands) You could do it in a day or over a weekend. I didn't use a quaife but it should be exactly the same process. Disconnect drive shaft prop shaft and get the diff out. Then drain the oil and remove the back plate.Take the out put shaft oil seal out (you will destroy them doing this so get new ones) Then remove the big curclips make sure you have a big removal tool. remove the tapered spacer and mark them left and right and dont muddle them up. repeat for the other side. Now is the bit that gets tricky take the old diff out. You will need to remove the old bearings. One end is really easy and you can get a bearing puller on. I struggled with the opposite end. I ended up spinning the diff in a lathe and putting in an under cut so i could get the pullers on. Others have knife edge pullers that have worked. Some have used so very careful blows with a hammer and chisel. Once there off remover the gear ring and reassemble with the new diff.
The ARB is easy what are you planing on replacing it with or are you just doing the bushes? I would recommend buying all the little brackets that go with the ARB new your old ones will be very rusty.
I took bluming ages doing mine as i striped the whole rear axle new bushes everywhere. Striped paint and repainted and also made adjustable control arms and RTAB limiting bushes. I also repainted the underside of the car and had to relocate the fuel breather system for the exhaust that i made to go in. So my 2.5 month project was a little different.
I wish you all the best its makes a huge difference and is well worth doing. If you have worked on cars and have an understanding and a decent selection of tools you should be ok. Myself and Yorkie z have done this so if you need a hand just ask.
The only tools i had to buy where torqes sockets.
Very easy and a days work 
LSD now fitted took 3 hours on my mates ramp also fitted an Ultraracing antiroll bar after advice from Birds BMW, Its fantastic to drive, just done 200 miles in mid Wales it feels so planted and safe it already has eibach springs on rear will fit the fronts soon.
Just came back after my first 10km with helical lsd.
Have to adjust my driving style o little..
- no difference while all electronic aids are on, maybe the yellow esp lamp flashes not as frequently as it did before
- while in dtc mode car allows for quite a bit more sideways action, and you have to be pretty careful with what you are doing, as just releasing the throtle a bit will corect the oversteer, so no need for such dramatic cou.tersteers as before
- with no electronocs its a different kind of animal - turns much quicker, and power oversteer is easy to provoke, quite easy to control, but you have to watch for quick pointy countersteers, as it has much more tendency to fishtail while realisng the gas pedal - on the other side its quite easy to control it with gentle throttle operating while sliding.
Thats my impression only after 10km, maybe I'm totally wrong
TapaTalking
Have to adjust my driving style o little..
- no difference while all electronic aids are on, maybe the yellow esp lamp flashes not as frequently as it did before
- while in dtc mode car allows for quite a bit more sideways action, and you have to be pretty careful with what you are doing, as just releasing the throtle a bit will corect the oversteer, so no need for such dramatic cou.tersteers as before
- with no electronocs its a different kind of animal - turns much quicker, and power oversteer is easy to provoke, quite easy to control, but you have to watch for quick pointy countersteers, as it has much more tendency to fishtail while realisng the gas pedal - on the other side its quite easy to control it with gentle throttle operating while sliding.
Thats my impression only after 10km, maybe I'm totally wrong
TapaTalking
The clutch type lsd works more less binary, meaning it doesnt lock the other wheel, and the second it detects slip it does fully, whereas helical lsd adjusts the lock according to slip conditions.
Plus of you go for 1,5 or 2 way clutch lsd it also locks the wheels while decelerating.
In many people opinion helical is less agressive plus its great benefit is that its service free, so no need to think about the clutches and other stuff
TapaTalking
Plus of you go for 1,5 or 2 way clutch lsd it also locks the wheels while decelerating.
In many people opinion helical is less agressive plus its great benefit is that its service free, so no need to think about the clutches and other stuff
TapaTalking