E85 Steering Column Removal Issues

SimonR said:
When @Umfaan helped me remove mine, the same issue to pull the column out of the UJ meant I had to cut off part of the end of my biggest ( longest) flat head screwdriver with an angle grinder so that the 'wedge' of the screwdriver head was already 3-4mm wide before it went into gap you are needing to open slightly. Being about a foot long handle, I could tap the end of the screwdriver from above the heatshield with a lump hammer and this opened up the gap enough to release the column from the UJ. Having two people also helped as one could pull from the cockpit while the other tapped open the UJ. Remember to mark both the column and the UJ before you pull them apart so you can see what orientation to put it back together or to put in your replacement one
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I strongly advise against pulling the column! If the UJ doesn't loosen then you will over-extend the intermediate shaft and knacker the bearing in it.
Keep the column mounted solidly in the car and tap the UJ downwards.
 
I’ve ended up sourcing and fitting a used steering column, is there anything I need to be mindful of with regards to ribbon cables etc. in the torque sensor, sas or clock spring?

I’ve tried to not rotate the clock spring but it may have been done, is there anything I can check?

Also, I’ve transplanted my eps motor onto the column to rule out any coding issues.

I’ve got the car running without any warnings but I’m hesitant to turn the wheel lock to lock as the used column may have been rotated, therefore effecting the torque sensor?

I’m also aware I need to recalibrate my sas using INPA.
 

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You can turn the clock spring by hand, gently. You will feel it start to have resistance/go taught when it gets to the end of the ribbon cable.

So, with that in mind, turn it all the way clockwise, until you feel resistance. Now go all the way anticlockwise, counting how many turns it takes, until you feel resistance. Now repeat going clockwise again to verify.

Once you know the number of turns in the clock spring/ribbon cable (something like 4.5 from memory), turn it half way back (so 2.25ish turns, with the clock spring facing upright to accept the steering wheel). Now the clock spring is in the middle.

The steering rack is something like 3 to 3.5 turns lock to lock, so 2 complete turns either way of the clock spring will be safe.

I can't comment on turning the column itself
 
Thanks for the info re the clock spring, I’m going to do that tonight.

Does anyone know if there’s anyway of ensuring the steering column hasn’t been turned and therefore the torque sensor could be damaged when I drive the car? I just want to cover all bases, before I take it for a run out.

Thanks
 
Z4OnABudget said:
Thanks for the info re the clock spring, I’m going to do that tonight.

Does anyone know if there’s anyway of ensuring the steering column hasn’t been turned and therefore the torque sensor could be damaged when I drive the car? I just want to cover all bases, before I take it for a run out.

Thanks
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Don't think so really. The mechanism is a bit to heavy for you to feel resistance at the ends of the ribbon. Obviously the master spline on the wheel should be aligned, but you really take a bit of a gamble that it isn't one whole turn out.
Piece of advice for you though; initially drive it with your thumbs outside the wheel as the torque sensor failing makes it kick back badly.

In fact, put the front up on axle stands, ignition on to get the motor powered up, then turn it lock to lock to see if there's an issue.
 
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