Dreaded Trifecta - ABS, TC and Handbrake light

[aknight]

Hi all,

As it says in the title I have unfortunately got the ABS, Traction Control and Handbrake warning lights on my dash. I have read some of the articles on here and have decided to try and have a crack at fixing it myself before sending it to a professional to fix my mess and bankrupt me. From my reading though it looks like its a fairly complex issue and can have many causes so I thought it would be wise to explain the details of my issue in the hope that someone knows something I don't.

I first got the 3 lights on a wet day about 200 miles after getting my wheels refurbished on a very wet long drive. After some reading I had hoped it was a dirty sensor from the very wet day combined with having the wheels removed maybe knocking something. The lights sometimes went off for a period of time and would then return, although the longer this went on the less it did it and the shorter time it would work for. Again, this fed into my hope of sensor issue. The lights have been on solidly for quite a while now. I got it up on a ramp and took the front sensors out, they were dirty but no luck unfortunately. I didn't remove the rear sensors due to it being a lot harder to access.

I have read that the issue can also be down to the ABS pump, which is phenomenally expensive to replace. Having looked at the part numbers it seems that there is a difference between the pre facelift and post facelift ABS pumps, at least in terms of the part number, does anyone know if there is actually a difference as there seems to be lots of pre facelift ones about but hardly any post facelift ones, which is what my Z4 is?

I have a diagnostics computer which did initially pick up a code, in my naivety though I did not note this down, and it no longer registers any faulty codes, leading me to think it could be a problem with an ECU?

I know some people have had luck taking the ABS pump off and then sending it off to a company to get refurbished, but as I'm not actually sure what's the problem I don't want to go taking that off the car, sending it off and spending £200+ for nothing. Being that it has worked since getting the lights and then stopped again makes me think its some electrical system stopping it working and not actually a mechanical fault.

Has anyone had any experience with fixing this issue that could offer any ideas or thoughts?

Cheers in advance!
Andy

 

[Chris_D]

Battery condition?
Undervoltage can cause a myriad of issues.
Get ur multimeter out and do all the standard voltage checks.
Good luck.

 

[GJC72]

Had this on my old 3.0si. Similar circumstances in that the lights first appeared whilst driving in the rain. Local garage read the codes which pointed to a faulty pump, cleared codes and all was fine for a couple of months. Lights re-appeared, codes cleared again and within 5 miles of driving they were back. Garage removed the ABS pump and sent to ECU Testing (www.ecutesting.com) who tested but could not diagnose a fault but they did advise this was not uncommon. I decided to go ahead with the repair anyway. After refitting the pump, issue never re-occurred so clearly the problem was the pump. From memory the test costs £45 refundable against the cost of repair. Repair was in the region of £200.00 plus the labour for my local garage to removal and refitting.

This was about 18 months ago so would expect prices ECU Testing charge would be similar. Personally for £45 I'd send the unit away to be tested.

 

[Geezah]

You really need to get the fault codes logged down, they will guide you to your next step. If your code reader can't get them, take it to someone who can. Surely anything else is just speculation?

 

[andyfanshawe]

I agree, stop piddling about with it and get it code read first with a good scanner. Not a cheapie EOBD thing.
If it comes up with 5DF0 and 5DF1 codes, take it off and send it to ECU testing in heanor in derbyshire. i have sent down quite a few and all been successfully rebuilt.
If it comes up with a wheel sensor code, have a look at live data while driving.

Had an interesting one in today...... 2004 Z4, E85, 3 litre. All 3 lights on (plus tyre pressure), fault code for rear left wheel speed sensor. On live data, this wheel was doing nothing.
On careful inspection, a stone had stuck in the phonic wheel and gouged its way through the ABS sensor. I'll get a photo tomorrow for you all.
Driveshaft out, stone removed, all teeth on the wheel very carefully straightened and new ABS sensor installed.
Works a treat!

Andy.

 

[MHZ4C]

As said, scanning for the 5df0 & 5df1 (pump motor) codes is helpful. Especially to avoid a simple wheel speed sensor error.

The brushes on the abs pump motor can get gummed up and prevent proper contact over time. It can be intermittent as the brushes can work free allowing normal operation, but it will only be temporary.

ECU Testing often find the motors work when they receive them, as postal handling has knocked the unit about enough to free up the brushes. It's only temporary though, and the motor will fail again very quickly. ECU Testing are very fair and admit if the pump is working, but it's well worth going ahead for the repair if you get 5df0 / 5df1 codes, rather than refitting only to have to remove and resend.

A new abs pump unit is ridiculously expensive, and as far as I know, will fail in the same way over time, as BMW didn't design out the problem for the e85/e86.

I can also recommend ECU Testing for great service.

 

[z4pilot]

Had pretty much the same symptoms on mine - got the codes read and determined the pump motor was failing. ECU Testing did the job and it's worth pointing out that they offer a lifetime warranty against the part failing again. My local indie did the work which involved stripping off the part, sending to ECU Testing, refitting and changing the brake fluid. Part of the refitting involves putting the pump through a purging/calibrating cycle which is achieved via software. Total cost was approximately £500

 

[andyfanshawe]

Had pretty much the same symptoms on mine - got the codes read and determined the pump motor was failing. ECU Testing did the job and it's worth pointing out that they offer a lifetime warranty against the part failing again. My local indie did the work which involved stripping off the part, sending to ECU Testing, refitting and changing the brake fluid. Part of the refitting involves putting the pump through a purging/calibrating cycle which is achieved via software. Total cost was approximately £500

Now this is interesting. I'm one of the "indies" i suppose! I remove, take to ecu testing, then refit and bleed.
And this is the interesting bit.....The last one I did, I thought, "what would happen if I didn't use the BMW software (or any other of my scan tools) to bleed the system? in other words, If i bled it out normally? vacuum bleeding for instance?

Nothing to lose here, just an experiment. And if it didn't work, I would use the electronic purging/calibrating cyle as stated above anyway.

Guess what I found..............................................go on, have a guess.....................



Bled out perfectly! Well, there's a turn up for the books eh?!!
Andy.

 

[biojo]

Had pretty much the same symptoms on mine - got the codes read and determined the pump motor was failing. ECU Testing did the job and it's worth pointing out that they offer a lifetime warranty against the part failing again. My local indie did the work which involved stripping off the part, sending to ECU Testing, refitting and changing the brake fluid. Part of the refitting involves putting the pump through a purging/calibrating cycle which is achieved via software. Total cost was approximately £500

I did same, mine cost around £400, only down side was i was without my car for just short of 2 weeks

 

[andyfanshawe]

Had pretty much the same symptoms on mine - got the codes read and determined the pump motor was failing. ECU Testing did the job and it's worth pointing out that they offer a lifetime warranty against the part failing again. My local indie did the work which involved stripping off the part, sending to ECU Testing, refitting and changing the brake fluid. Part of the refitting involves putting the pump through a purging/calibrating cycle which is achieved via software. Total cost was approximately £500

I did same, mine cost around £400, only down side was i was without my car for just short of 2 weeks

Depending on how busy they are, and if I deliver and pick up (35 mins drive), I can turnaround in less that a week now. can certainly recommend ECU testing.
Andy.

 

[biojo]

ye fella i used to do the work was doing another car same time, so had 2 units to come back, luckily i can get away without a car for work etc.

 

[aknight]

Took the Z4 to a indie who confirmed the pump codes 5DF0 and 5DF1.

So I'm dropping the car off at my local on Friday for him to gut it and send the ABS pump to ECUtesting and hopefully that'll solve it...

 

[jack07]

3 nasty lights together and confirmed same 2 codes just before Mot due!
With great care dremmelled away the staked motor retainers,cleaned up the brushes,brush holders and commutator until both brushes sliding easily in to contact.Re-staked with dot punch and sealed around with epoxy resin.
reinstalled,and after removing fault codes with my trusty icarsoft bimmer scanner,lights are out and no faults found..
Full bleed,fast road test to excite and work the abs valving,then final re bleed shortly to finish.
Total cost: some rubber bungs//stoppers from eBay,a new can of brake cleaner,1 litre of dot4.
The dremel,code reader,methylated spirit and arayldite were already bought and paid for themselves over and over .
It Can be done! I am like a dog with two CXXXS!
Much more work to do while she is up on the stands undressed,drilling exhaust bolts,prop and shields down for handbrake lever change,waxoyling behind wheelarch liners etc.Should be Motd and ready for another year of driving pleasure next couple of weeks,,regards to all on here

 

[z4pilot]

3 nasty lights together and confirmed same 2 codes just before Mot due!
With great care dremmelled away the staked motor retainers,cleaned up the brushes,brush holders and commutator until both brushes sliding easily in to contact.Re-staked with dot punch and sealed around with epoxy resin.
reinstalled,and after removing fault codes with my trusty icarsoft bimmer scanner,lights are out and no faults found..
Full bleed,fast road test to excite and work the abs valving,then final re bleed shortly to finish.
Total cost: some rubber bungs//stoppers from eBay,a new can of brake cleaner,1 litre of dot4.
The dremel,code reader,methylated spirit and arayldite were already bought and paid for themselves over and over .
It Can be done! I am like a dog with two CXXXS!
Much more work to do while she is up on the stands undressed,drilling exhaust bolts,prop and shields down for handbrake lever change,waxoyling behind wheelarch liners etc.Should be Motd and ready for another year of driving pleasure next couple of weeks,,regards to all on here

Nothing but respect... :bow:

 

[jack07]

Well thank you Sir! See you out there some day,low level through Welsh mountains,or Scottish if funds permit again.

 

[schumacherwannabe]

3 nasty lights together and confirmed same 2 codes just before Mot due!
With great care dremmelled away the staked motor retainers,cleaned up the brushes,brush holders and commutator until both brushes sliding easily in to contact.Re-staked with dot punch and sealed around with epoxy resin.
reinstalled,and after removing fault codes with my trusty icarsoft bimmer scanner,lights are out and no faults found..
Full bleed,fast road test to excite and work the abs valving,then final re bleed shortly to finish.
Total cost: some rubber bungs//stoppers from eBay,a new can of brake cleaner,1 litre of dot4.
The dremel,code reader,methylated spirit and arayldite were already bought and paid for themselves over and over .
It Can be done! I am like a dog with two CXXXS!
Much more work to do while she is up on the stands undressed,drilling exhaust bolts,prop and shields down for handbrake lever change,waxoyling behind wheelarch liners etc.Should be Motd and ready for another year of driving pleasure next couple of weeks,,regards to all on here

Hi all, I have the same issue. I've checked all the wheel sensors manually and put on a code reader to get the 2 codes 50F1.
I can't hear the ABS pump whirr when i put the ignition on, but I suppose this doesn't rule out a bad module.

Now I can take off the module and leave the pump and hydraulic lines attached. Can I test the motor in situ to rule this out entirely? Assuming I can get access to the little contacts, I wanted to test the abs pump before disturbing the lines, as I don't want to mess around bleeding the system.

Cheers all!

 

[schumacherwannabe]

So I''m 90% sure my motor isn''t working. Researching I can see that this is the common failure, not the electronics module.
Now the rebuild companies will charge £300 with postage and vat, which is a steep cost just for a repair to the motor...

My plan is to whip off the old unit, and just swap the motor and hydraulic part myself with a used part - i.e. just take off the module and swap over - this would mean I don't have to mess around recoding it, then I have a spare which I can simply sell on to a rebuild company or try repair myself at my leisure.
Can anyone recommend if this would or wouldn't work having had theirs off?