Dreaded Roof Motor

That happened to my Indy when they fitted a new motor last July. It was resolved when they found I had a faulty Bowden cable (red handle in the boot) that wasn't activating the hydro pump switch.
 
Ok replaced the motor and sat the roof in position but it still doesn't move the roof does anyone know if the roof needs to be fixed into position again before the roof will open and close?
 
It's not that the roof needs to be fixed in place, you can actually operate the roof out of the car with a couple of fly leads (I did) BUT the motor does need to be the right way up, it doesn't work if it's upside down due to the way the fluid must be pumped.

I basically put my roof on a table, put two leads from the battery to the roof connections, and then swapped them over to operate it the other way.
 
My roof motor is gone, diagnostic test shows, anyone had theirs done at an I dependant dealer in Scotland that they can recommend
 
I have read several threads and wonder if my symptoms are indicative of motor failure or perhaps a relay or something. If my motor has packed up (the hydraulic one) then it seems very coincidental that the unlocking motor has failed as well. But the only way to undo the roof is to manually unwind the locking mechanism and lower the roof manually. I buzzed the unlocking motor with a separate 12 volt source to see if it responds and it does. Is there something overriding everything that could be at fault? I have checked the tray. Thanks Rick
 
There's a micro switch behind the boot parcel shelf that failed on mine, making no action at the open/close switch whatsoever. Was about £18 to replace and 10 mins to change.
 
OK I have checked this (physically) and I am sure it is being actuated, not sure if it is working electrically though. What I find is perhaps different to others on the forum is that I have no lights on the roof switches and no roof unlocking either!!!
 
After the loss of one roof hyd motor and £610 I decided to ensure my roof drains remained clear to avoid a recurrence of this all too common failure. The garage repairing the car assured me they had cleared the drains, which should now remain unblocked for the rest of the life of the car. Not wanting to tempt fate I spent 70 pence on 1.5m of net curtain wire from Wilko, which fitted down the drains and cleared them perfectly, once I had gained access to the upper drain collection points either side, by half opening the roof. A quick test with a small amount of water poured down the back of the hood once it was closed again, brought a smile to my face as a trickle of water appeared below both drain lower openings, proving they worked as advertised.
I will conduct this process a couple of times a year to ensure no debris collects in future.
Hope this works for your cars too.
PP
 
Fixing the drains wont necessarily help, it depends on how much you wash your car :) I know as i've had to fix mine twice, and last time I cleared the drains and sealed the Cr@p out of the motor housing. You're best relocating the motor in the boot.

Its an easy job, I did mine tonight and it took a very steady 2 hours.

Roof up
Take out the plastic housing at the top of boot/trunk - be careful not to damage the microswitch.
Take out about 4 of the nearside roof 'hoop' 10mm bolts and un-hook the nsf of the hoop from the metal hook/clip.
Roof 1/3 way down
Remove nearside Half of the Rubber strip
Remove the 2 interior inspection holes (parallelogram shaped vent and round gromet) - Remove 2 large torx bolts
Lift up the roof clear of the car - place the lowest point on a piece of wood or similar to protect the car and maintain the lift height.

You now have plenty of room to pop your arm in and pull the motor housing out. Just make sure that if you un-bolt the motor, make sure the motor is face up or you'll spill the hydraulic fluid.
 
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