Door cards off- advice

[bigwinn]

Evening all

I’m taking the door cards off to upgrade (fit) door speakers

Anything else I should be looking at while I’ve got the cards off?

Sometimes the outside door handle needs an extra pull to open- assume the cables have stretched, can this be remedied?

Checking the door seal/ waterproof membrane etc- what to look for?

Cheers in advance

Stuart

 

[ERX]

If you're going behind the door membrane then I'd definitely put some sound deadening material in the doors to stop the cheap clunking sound that the car comes out the factory with. If you want to check if the membrane is leaking you can just pour water down the outside of the door where the window is, you'd see the water come through the oher side of the membrane if it has a leak. I can't really comment on the door handle as I've not come across the issue myself

 

[bigwinn]

Cheers- noted about the water check!

 

[Z4C_er]

Just getting the door cards off was a trial for me, and I found the trim removal tool a very valuable item (along the top):

After that, just make sure nothing is rusting, or loose.
Sound deadening is a must if you're doing a sound upgrade; both to the door cards and the sheetmetal. Making templates helps.

 

[z4man2020]

Evening all

I’m taking the door cards off to upgrade (fit) door speakers

Be careful of the door lock stick thingy when pulling. Make sure you don't damage it.

Apologies for the poor technical term, no idea what it's called

Anything else I should be looking at while I’ve got the cards off?

Sometimes the outside door handle needs an extra pull to open- assume the cables have stretched, can this be remedied?

Checking the door seal/ waterproof membrane etc- what to look for?

Cheers in advance

Stuart

 

[bigwinn]

noted- thank you!

50/50 on the sound deadening at the moment but will mull it over

 

[patriot66]

Hi Stuart. A few years ago I 'acquired' some old-fashioned, self-adhesive bitumen sound deadening from work, like in this photo

I cut it into smaller and easier to handle pieces and applied it to as much of the interior of the door-skin as possible. Quite tricky working through the gaps in the interior door frame and contorting your hands and wrists around the window regulator and wiring etc....but well worth it !
It adds a pleasing bit of weight to the door when opening or closing and vastly improves the tinny 'clang' to a quality 'clunk' when closing it.
I also stuck the same stuff on the underside of the 'parcel shelf' to give it some weight and stop any rattles and squeaks etc

 

[bigwinn]

Hi Stuart. A few years ago I 'acquired' some old-fashioned, self-adhesive bitumen sound deadening from work, like in this photo
500-x-500-x-2mm-BITUMEN-PAD.jpg
I cut it into smaller and easier to handle pieces and applied it to as much of the interior of the door-skin as possible. Quite tricky working through the gaps in the interior door frame and contorting your hands and wrists around the window regulator and wiring etc....but well worth it !
It adds a pleasing bit of weight to the door when opening or closing and vastly improves the tinny 'clang' to a quality 'clunk' when closing it.
I also stuck the same stuff on the underside of the 'parcel shelf' to give it some weight and stop any rattles and squeaks etc

Hi Simon

Thanks for the tip- sounds like it may be worthwhile adding deadening

2mm thickness suits?

Read up on a thread on here the did a how to-

Cheers

Stuart