Doing an oil change

WaZZZZman

Active member
 Over the rainbow near the emerald city
This has probably been asked several times but after going to my local dealer and finding out what they want to change the oil and filter I thought as a new member here you would indulge my ignorance and help me.

Do any of you change your oil and filter yourself regularly?

What kind of oil do you use? Brand and type please.

Where do you get filters for the Z4 and what brand if possible here in the states.

Within a scale of 9 being very difficult, to 1 even a moron like me could do it, how difficult is the task?

Now the question I may be stepping over the line of decency:

Please describe the procedure in simple terms.


I got my 2004 Z4 used still under some warranty, but all manuals and documentation was not provided with the vehicle so I am kind of shooting in the dark. I have some documents on order but as of now I still do not have them so I am counting on you fine people for help.

Thanks Wizard
 
I change my oil every 5k miles with the dealer doing the 15k change under warranty. I use 5W30 Mobil 1 synthetic and buy the oil filter element from the dealer @ 10% off with my BMW CCA membership. Castrol is another oil I use. I get mine at Walmart.

Changing the oil and filter is drop dead easy. Drain the oil by first removing the plate that covers the oil drain plug access, remove the oil drain plug and drain. While that is going on unscrew the oil filter cap, remove old filter element. Before I pop the new filter into the casting I presoak the new filter with clean oil. This is optional but my preference. Put the new element in and screw the cap back on. In the oil filter element bag there should be: the oil filter, large O ring and a copper washer. The O ring replaces the one in the oil filter cap, the copper washer replaces the one on the oil drain plug. Your model year should have a large "nut" molded into the oil filter housing cap. Use this to tighten to the amount of torque specified on the cap itself. Reinstall the oil drain bolt with the new washer. I don't remember the torque requirements for the oil drain plug. Perhaps you should ask the Service Manager this spec when you are buying the oil filter at you dealer? I believe all the US spec engines require 6.9 quarts.

btw, US driven vehicle oil filter changes are covered under warranty at no charge at 15k mile (approx) intervals. Your dealer can pull those records very easily to find when the last change was made and if you are covered for the next change.

So what did you spend? Oil: $40~50; filter, is $10. Cheap, but invaluable, maintenance. My advise is if this is something you have done before, do it on you Z4. If this would be a new experience, then have someone else do it for you, but not a Jiffy Lube or the like. I wouldn't let those guys change the oil in my lawn mower let alone a Z4.

Cheers,
Greg
 
you need ...

-17mm wrench/socket for drain
-36mm for filter removal
-MANN Filter(can be bought on ebay for fairly cheap)
-Mobile 1 0w-40, this is approved by BMW for long term usage. when I used 5w-30, it burned a little but people have told me 0w-40 will significantly reduce that.

andd drain pan from wal-mart for like $10 or less. REMEMBER to buy a big one that will hold at least 8+ quarts. Our crank takes approx 7 quarts so you want to have room in your drain

I change mine every 5000miles or so.
 
Unless one buys a minimum of 4 off eBay at one time, I found my dealer gives me as good as or better than per unit pricing. My dealer is only 4 miles from my house.
 
Thanks for the information. I have always done my own changes, well most of the time anyway and just wondered if there was some special magic I had to do on the Z4. I heard that there was free oil changes and as I remember I asked about this but I was at my dealer this week and asked about their maintenance procedures and intervals as I had no users manual, and he indicated that oil/filter changes were in the order of $120.00 and up from there. Maybe he was just trying to garner revenue for BMW on a newbie but he sure did not indicate I would get free oil changes. My Z4 is a 2004 vintage but still has some warranty on it. Seems like they are trying to convinces me that things I feel the car needs to have adjusted or corrected are all falling in the category of previous owner misuse or damage caused by driving over curbs etc etc. My word against theirs. Seems so far to be sub par to my Mercedes experiences. Time will tell.
 
I've heard that the dealer charges an exorbant amount for oil changes.

My questions...

What plate that covers the drain plug for the oil?? ( I guess I looked at the wrong thing the other day)

Where is that pesky filter?

Can I get pics?
I'm assuming the oil change is pretty much the same as any other american vehicle (read chevy)? Just with parts in diff spots and slightly diff setups...
 
I can not at this time get under the Z4 to locate the plate that hides the drain plug, but the filter is housed under the cover in this photo. I hope that helps you. I am going to do my own changes after I have totaled the cost to me. Looks like the oil will run about $30.00 at Wally World. Add the cost of a pan and transport to recycling. The cost of a filter. My time. And after that if it comes close to what the dealer said their cost was of $120.00 I will have them do it, but I doubt it will be anywhere near as much as they wanted. After my first trip to the dealer I am thinking that any time they have your vehicle there they will find new ways to get you to spend more money...for a lot of just in cases.

Z4oilfilter2.jpg


Z4oilfilter1.jpg
 
I use a Sears/Craftsman jack to get under the car and then put it on stands. That allows me to crawl under to remove the plate that covers the oil drain plug. I also Zaino the undercarriage areas I can reach when there: a theraputic process for me. :wink: Say, you could get one of those pumps that will suck the oil out as an alternative? It takes me about 20 minutes tops to change out my oil.
 
I bought my Z4 last year with the intent that it would permanently be in my collection and be a "learner" car...specifically, I'll use it learn about my car, maintain it, and most importantly, modify it! While I'm extremely technically proficient, I've never done anything to a car other than fill it with gas. So like you, the oil change was a bit intimidating at first. But if I had to put it on a scale of 1-10 (1 being gassing the tank and 10 being overhauling an engine or some crazy mod.) I'd put the oil change at a 2...so that's good news!

Along those lines, I wanted to help people like ua and do a write up for an oil change. I've done the write up, but forgot to take pics! So can send the word doc if you want. Just PM me.
 
How do you reset the oil light, if you don't have one of those reset scan tooly thing a ma bobs?
 
I think this works. I have not tried it.

1. Ignition in the off position.
2. Push and hold the trip reset button while turning the key to position "1" or Accessory.
3. Continue pushing the button for 5 additional seconds until the display changes and "inspection" or "oil service" appears.
4. Push the button again for approx 5 seconds until " Reset " or "RE" appears in the display and is flashing.
5. When the display starts to flash press the button a third time to actually reset that item. The new or updated service should appear and you can now shut the key off.
 
20ducks said:
I use a Sears/Craftsman jack to get under the car and then put it on stands. That allows me to crawl under to remove the plate that covers the oil drain plug. I also Zaino the undercarriage areas I can reach when there: a theraputic process for me. :wink: Say, you could get one of those pumps that will suck the oil out as an alternative? It takes me about 20 minutes tops to change out my oil.

I have one of those units for sucking the oil out from Griot's Garage and it has worked very well over the past few years in sucking out all of my crankcase oil - through the oil dipstick hole.........

For 20 points can anyone guess what's wrong with this solution on my Z4 3.0si Coupe? :roll:





Sigh.
 
AlanL said:
20ducks said:
I use a Sears/Craftsman jack to get under the car and then put it on stands. That allows me to crawl under to remove the plate that covers the oil drain plug. I also Zaino the undercarriage areas I can reach when there: a theraputic process for me. :wink: Say, you could get one of those pumps that will suck the oil out as an alternative? It takes me about 20 minutes tops to change out my oil.

I have one of those units for sucking the oil out from Griot's Garage and it has worked very well over the past few years in sucking out all of my crankcase oil - through the oil dipstick hole.........

For 20 points can anyone guess what's wrong with this solution on my Z4 3.0si Coupe? :roll:





Sigh.


Could it be that there is no dip stick....
 
Bzzzzt - thanks for playing......

:zzzz:

Now the good news is that you didn't run out and buy one to find that factoid out 8)
 
WaZZZZman said:
I can not at this time get under the Z4 to locate the plate that hides the drain plug, but the filter is housed under the cover in this photo. I hope that helps you. I am going to do my own changes after I have totaled the cost to me. Looks like the oil will run about $30.00 at Wally World. Add the cost of a pan and transport to recycling. The cost of a filter. My time. And after that if it comes close to what the dealer said their cost was of $120.00 I will have them do it, but I doubt it will be anywhere near as much as they wanted. After my first trip to the dealer I am thinking that any time they have your vehicle there they will find new ways to get you to spend more money...for a lot of just in cases.

Allied Waste Services in your area will take your old oil for no charge. You just have to call them to let them know to pick it up with your recycle week bin. :)
 
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