Does anyone have experience with

Z4Rick

Member
Racechip performance chips?
They seem a simpler answer to HP enhancement without changing ECU settings and is invisible to the dealers.
Once unplugged and removed, the car remains at series configuration. It doesnt have the control over every aspect of the powerplant the way a remap does, but the nearest speed shop to me with BMW experience is 350 miles, and I don't need max performance, but just an edge over 3 35is cars I race with occasionally. I may actually remove the chip when not on the track. I'm hoping to get some opinions from actual owners.
https://www.racechip.com
 
This isn't invisible to dealers by the way just so you are aware.... I wouldn't be putting one of these on my pride and joy either, id go and find a decent tuning shop and have a proper ECU remap done but its your car so its up to you. :)
 
How so? It requires no reflashing, is a simple plug between existing halves of an existing plug, and they insist once removed, it is invisible??
 
hopz121 said:
This isn't invisible to dealers by the way just so you are aware.... I wouldn't be putting one of these on my pride and joy either, id go and find a decent tuning shop and have a proper ECU remap done but its your car so its up to you. :)

The OP asked a genuine question and you come out all guns blazing.

A little less agression and a little more fact??
 
Don't plug in/piggy back chips fool your sensors with false readings allowing more air/fuel boost?A remap done properly is definitely the way I am going .
I will be using P Torque in Wolverhampton . They did a cracking job on a previous car I had.
 
I don't want to get into a debate where people have entrenched views of what is "right". I am interested in hearing actual experiance. In truth, here in the USA, one rarely hears of re-maping unless they are racers. I think this is due to the inability of speed shops and re-maping shops to survive anyplace but near big cities. From all I read, "Chips" reign - on both American and import cars. If a simple plug in that any idiot can do, (Me!), accomplishes most of what a remap does - safely, I might give it serious thought. Again, from my reading Chips tend to work best on engines that are detuned or operating below their inherent potential. (N54!) Otherwise, a re-map requires a weekend or longer in New York - which to me equates to six months in Hell, and reliance on a dealer whose High Priests just shake their heads and mumble something in German when they see a re-map. So, I'll default to a stock 35i and watch the race-boy-35is pass me on the 2.5 mile straight away. Besides, I can always find an MX5 to pass!
 
The N54 can be tuned with a handheld unit, absolutely no need for a "chip". MHD Flasher is the best of the bunch and is used by the majority of owners but for the less technically literate there are solutions like COBB Access Port which don't require you to have any knowledge of how to operate an Android device.

Piggybacks aren't invisible to dealers, the people selling them just claim they are. A flash tune with a handheld device can be completely removed and is truly 100% undetectable if you return the car to stock tune before a dealer visit.

The ECU tune vs piggyback debate has been done many times across many forums, there's no need to regurgitate the Racechip sales blurb to us.

If you are truly sold on a piggyback then get a JB4. As far as piggyback units go the JB4 is above and beyond the competition. Bear in mind that even the maker of the JB4 advocates people to use a real ECU tune as piggyback units are always limited in what they can accomplish.

The reason people are being short with OP is because this question has been answered THOUSANDS of times. Just type "WHAT TUNE SHOULD I USE FOR MY N54" into google.
 
ibroker said:
hopz121 said:
This isn't invisible to dealers by the way just so you are aware.... I wouldn't be putting one of these on my pride and joy either, id go and find a decent tuning shop and have a proper ECU remap done but its your car so its up to you. :)

The OP asked a genuine question and you come out all guns blazing.

A little less agression and a little more fact??

No aggression here buddy just stating what I know on the subject.

In regards to being invisible, the car will log all types of data behind the scenes if your engine went pop they would look at the data your car has and clearly see there has been higher than normal parameters for a period of time and investigate further. They would know the normal boost and air to fuel ratios exceed the normal limits and would invalidate any type of claim you had!

If the car is financed you would then have a serious issue on your hands and would need to buy a new engine.

On Cutters the other day someone had one of these devices on his new M4 on track.... it didn't take long for the thing to blow up and I dread to think how much the damage would have cost.

I don't know what box he had fitted or if some are different to others, all I know and stated is that these boxes are not invisible.

Good luck with the box thing or with whatever you decide to do.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful on the subject.
 
I know that this subject has had a lot of controversy. Other forums especially for the M cars also bring it up a lot. Amazing H.P. curves at the wheels are possible. I try to follow them to help decide if I want to do it. Then some Youtube video will flatly state that if you chip you will use all that power and all sorts of problems will surely follow.
As a matter of fact I did track a Turbo car some years ago and I did modify the boost. On the track I only used about half of the potential boost increase that was possible. It was just enough to compete with most of the Porsches of that era at the Porsche club at Watkins Glen near my home. After the first few sessions I settled down. Instead of going full steam down the long back straight I stayed at about 100 to120 mph and let people go by. Then in the corners I had a chance to catch and mix with them again. The tires and the brakes stayed cooler. As the power and speed increase, everything gets stressed geometrically more, especially from the heat in the brakes and tires. Most street cars boiled their brake fluid out in a few laps.
If I track my Z, I will enjoy its power, I will be passed sometimes, I will be happy to be out there even with only 300 H.P. Its not a race, I have no roll cage, I am not getting paid, It is not a race it is not a....
 
R.E92 said:
The reason people are being short with OP is because this question has been answered THOUSANDS of times. Just type "WHAT TUNE SHOULD I USE FOR MY N54" into google.

Then let's answer it again, or post a link for the OP to look at what's obviously known. There's always someone asking this for the first time - none of us are born with the knowledge (at least I don't think so...................?).

It was a polite, reasonable and specific question - views from owners and those with personal experience. People should be encouraged to post, not poised over the keys wondering if they'll be mocked or castigated for asking a question.
 
I use a JB4 - in my current and previous 335i - and never had any issues - taking the car for service or warranty work.

Racechips is not a popular option, however, I do like the engine warranty feature of the product. But I understand its not as feature rich as an JB4.

If however, you have an 35i - you could COBB route or some of the flashing tools - as there are more options available for this engine.

If the car is under warranty, then there is a logic behind one of these piggy back systems, if the car is out of warranty - then other options are available.
 
bob4333 said:
R.E92 said:
The reason people are being short with OP is because this question has been answered THOUSANDS of times. Just type "WHAT TUNE SHOULD I USE FOR MY N54" into google.

Then let's answer it again, or post a link for the OP to look at what's obviously known. There's always someone asking this for the first time - none of us are born with the knowledge (at least I don't think so...................?).

It was a polite, reasonable and specific question - views from owners and those with personal experience. People should be encouraged to post, not poised over the keys wondering if they'll be mocked or castigated for asking a question.

Google
 
Twin Turbo said:
I use a JB4 - in my current and previous 335i - and never had any issues - taking the car for service or warranty work.

Racechips is not a popular option, however, I do like the engine warranty feature of the product. But I understand its not as feature rich as an JB4.

If however, you have an 35i - you could COBB route or some of the flashing tools - as there are more options available for this engine.

If the car is under warranty, then there is a logic behind one of these piggy back systems, if the car is out of warranty - then other options are available.

There really is no logic behind using a piggyback while under warranty versus a flash tune.

A piggyback will store codes in the ECU, some have a code clearing function but afaik they don't erase FASTA data. It's a load of hassle to physically remove a piggyback whereas a tune from MHD can be removed without opening the bonnet and takes 15min.
 
I have the stage 1 Racechip on my 35i. I am more than happy. I thought I would try the cheaper version to make sure it worked OK with a view to upgrading. For now at least I will stick with the stage 1. Great value and very easy to fit, it took about 10 minutes.
 
I really appreciate everyone's thoughts. The subject IS new to me, I am VERY unsure, and the thoughts of guys who have actually done this to Z's is irreplaceable, and undismissable advice. I particularly enjoyed extaz's comments above; you describe my attitude and experiance very accurately; "I feel you brother!"

I am not sure how this will shake out. I have another year on the warranty and my thought to this point has been to not baby this car, nor trash it, but use it like it was intended - and hope any weaknesses would show up while the warranty was active - Then consider this modification. As it stands, I think I'll wait. I'll track it 3-5 times this season and continue to learn the car. That gives me a year to learn more about mapping, and see if I can muster up the courage, and knowledge, to try a map. Honestly, the inability to adjust the Chips seems limiting - a take it or leave it proposition, so I'll likely go the map route, if at all.

I did find a very interesting page on another forum where a guy created a VERY lengthy spreadsheet he titles "N54 Tune Comparison Chart". It is FILLED with helpful information anyone interested in the subject should find useful. Find it here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=374508

or the .pdf file here:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attachment.php?s=506baf01df74f9b1515e2d928f5e6970&attachmentid=823262&d=1361642333

Thanks again guys - you've given me much to think about.
Rick
 
Shorty said:
I have the stage 1 Racechip on my 35i. I am more than happy. I thought I would try the cheaper version to make sure it worked OK with a view to upgrading. For now at least I will stick with the stage 1. Great value and very easy to fit, it took about 10 minutes.

Shorty,
I'd be VERY interested in hearing more....
Are the power gains noticeable? Can you estimate the gain in HP? What about MPG - any gains there? Drivability? Does it still idle well? accelerate smoothly? Any trouble with the DCT and shifting? Did you need to make any adjustments once the chip was installed? Anything else you've noticed?

The stage 1 chip seems a reasonable first step, and may give me enough boost to still enjoy the car without the rough edges of a full blown RaceChip Ultimate
 
A topic close to my heart. My 35i is still relatively new to me so feels plenty powerful enough for now, and I paid for BMW Insured Warranty so not looking to invalidate that. Next year however, I may well be tempted to gain a little more torque/power.

However, my recent experience with another platform makes me a little nervous. A decatted header and remap on a NA engine and the darn thing seized on me. Whether the mods were related to the failure will never be known - but I had a nervous few weeks while dealer ummed and ahhed over whether I would get a new engine under warranty or not. Happily, my claim was accepted and all was well, but it's made me a little nervous about the whole modification thing.

I'd expect 35i to 35is power level to be achievable and not overly greedy, but much more and I'd have concerns.
 
I have Dinan Stage II. I have a whole history tuning cars both my own and others at a good friend's performance shop, but I won't get into it because it never seems to matter what anyone's creds. are. in these discussions. For me, piggybacks and handhelds (with the exception of Cobb OTS tune with their handheld or custom done by Cobb) are a no go. I much prefer a pure ECU flash from a company that has a lot of experience with the particular engine I'm tuning. I considered ESS as my buddy is a dealer, but I chose to go Dinan instead. I couldn't be happier with the results as it seems to be just the right amount of power for this car and my intentions with it. IMHO and personal experience, "feature rich" translates to "more ways to blow up your engine". There are SO many self-entitled "experts" out there screwing around with things they have NO business fucking with and that includes some so-called "Performance Shops" who sell\install piggybacks and handheld tuners. Go into any American BMW forum and just click on the Engine forums, hell stay in the model specific general discussion, and there will be 7-10 threads having to do with "Installed JB4 (or MHD) and 'x' happened, how to fix?".

IDC what anyone says, the dealer can ALWAYS tell your car's been tuned whether that's by flash count (yes, MHD flashes count) or past running parameters stored in the ECU. They can and might use it against you in the event of a catastrophic failure. Is it legal? Depends on your view of the Magnusson Moss Warranty Act (U.S.), but not really unless they can prove the tune caused it. Are you likely to win that debate with the dealer? Nope. Are you likely to win at all in a legal dispute? Nope. Are all these people who have no issues getting warranty work done with a tune on their car liars? Nope. Most of the time, if you're not a dick, they don't go looking for excuses to nail your bank account to a wall. But, no matter which way you decide to go, you're taking a sizeable risk. Even Dinan (carefully read the fine print of any of these tuners' warranties, should they provide one). That said, I'd rather have a good chance at someone else besides me paying for a blown engine than no chance at all. That, to me, is worth paying for (Dinan isn't even expensive anymore).

OP, since you track your car that often, should you choose to tune the car via any method (and I can't stress enough to the haters that are going to jump on me for this post how little I truly care what he chooses to do), I highly recommend the installation of supporting mods such as a larger intercooler and oil cooler. If you're just some idiot like me who wants more power and simply drives aggressively, you really don't need them below a certain threshold.
 
I can't understand why people consider anything other than MHD, it's up to date, it's actually revised on a regular basis, it doesnt leave a footprint on the DME and it's cheaper than pretty much everything being discussed here.

No brainer tbh
 
davis449 said:
I have Dinan Stage II. I have a whole history tuning cars both my own and others at a good friend's performance shop, but I won't get into it because it never seems to matter what anyone's creds. are. in these discussions. For me, piggybacks and handhelds (with the exception of Cobb OTS tune with their handheld or custom done by Cobb) are a no go. I much prefer a pure ECU flash from a company that has a lot of experience with the particular engine I'm tuning. I considered ESS as my buddy is a dealer, but I chose to go Dinan instead. I couldn't be happier with the results as it seems to be just the right amount of power for this car and my intentions with it. IMHO and personal experience, "feature rich" translates to "more ways to blow up your engine". There are SO many self-entitled "experts" out there screwing around with things they have NO business f***ing with and that includes some so-called "Performance Shops" who sell\install piggybacks and handheld tuners. Go into any American BMW forum and just click on the Engine forums, hell stay in the model specific general discussion, and there will be 7-10 threads having to do with "Installed JB4 (or MHD) and 'x' happened, how to fix?".

IDC what anyone says, the dealer can ALWAYS tell your car's been tuned whether that's by flash count (yes, MHD flashes count) or past running parameters stored in the ECU. They can and might use it against you in the event of a catastrophic failure. Is it legal? Depends on your view of the Magnusson Moss Warranty Act (U.S.), but not really unless they can prove the tune caused it. Are you likely to win that debate with the dealer? Nope. Are you likely to win at all in a legal dispute? Nope. Are all these people who have no issues getting warranty work done with a tune on their car liars? Nope. Most of the time, if you're not a dick, they don't go looking for excuses to nail your bank account to a wall. But, no matter which way you decide to go, you're taking a sizeable risk. Even Dinan (carefully read the fine print of any of these tuners' warranties, should they provide one). That said, I'd rather have a good chance at someone else besides me paying for a blown engine than no chance at all. That, to me, is worth paying for (Dinan isn't even expensive anymore).

OP, since you track your car that often, should you choose to tune the car via any method (and I can't stress enough to the haters that are going to jump on me for this post how little I truly care what he chooses to do), I highly recommend the installation of supporting mods such as a larger intercooler and oil cooler. If you're just some idiot like me who wants more power and simply drives aggressively, you really don't need them below a certain threshold.

Firstly, any tune will throw up issues if you car isn't well maintained. Even people using Dinan tunes will have misfires if they are using old spark plugs or have a duff coil.

The tunes you get from places like Dinan and Hartage are inferior to tunes from MHD. I can send you an unlocked copy of the Hartage or Alpina tune which people pay £2000 for and you can see for yourself.
The reason these tunes are inferior is down to the fact they had limited tables to manipulate. More recently people have put serious effort into reverse engineering the BMW DME software and have unlocked a lot more tables and functionality. MHD is also now writing custom code into the DME which is something nobody else has managed.

The part about the flash count is not true. The flash count is only incremented when flashing with BMWs own software suite, COBB, MHD, BBFLASH etc will not increment this counter.

I appreciate that you have been fed a lot of tuner marketing spiel on this but all the tuning shops are out there to make a quick buck reprogramming a module in your car. Most are no longer interested in actually improving the vehicle or doing any real R&D on mechanical mods, they just want to sell you their generic ECU flash that ups boost a few PSI.
 
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