Disc stuck on hub

wilbo

Active member
 Berkshire
Attempted to change my pads and discs today, but couldn't get the first disc off. It seems to be seized to the hub. I had the handbrake off. Either I need a bigger hammer or the handbrake is still grabbing it. Is it easy to wind the handbrake shoes off to ensure its not that?
 
Try winding the brake adjuster back to the max, you might be lucky, apparently a special tool is required to back it off further up near the handbrake, but many, including myself have managed without it.

Put a flats screwdriver through the bolt hole and back off the adjuster.. 50% chance of going the right way , If you go the wrong way the disc will lock up !

The adjuster is at around a10 or 2 O' clock position afaik !
 
fixit man said:
Try winding the brake adjuster back to the max, you might be lucky, apparently a special tool is required to back it off further up near the handbrake, but many, including myself have managed without it.

Put a flats screwdriver through the bolt hole and back off the adjuster.. 50% chance of going the right way , If you go the wrong way the disc will lock up !

The adjuster is at around a10 or 2 O' clock position afaik !
Thanks, just found an image online of just that. Going to tackle it in the morning when I have the whole day ahead.
 
Hi,

You may need to release the auto adjuster as well (Under the handbrake lever - lift off the gaiter), I know I had to on mine even after backing off the brake shoes. Not sure if I found the description of how to release the auto adjuster on the forum or else where, if you've not come across a BM auto adjuster before it's not evident at first sight what you need to do :?

Stu.
 
Bigger hammer / bar

Jonny essex said:
Im avoiding all this pain by paying someone to fit my new wheels, discs, pads....too much agro for me :headbang:

Easiest job anyone can do! lol
#NoIdea
 
wilbo said:
Thanks, just found an image online of just that. Going to tackle it in the morning when I have the whole day ahead.

The image might be useful for others. Sorry I can't be of any help.
 
Jonny essex said:
Im avoiding all this pain by paying someone to fit my new wheels, discs, pads....too much agro for me :headbang:

Yep did my Lollipops, discs and pads in about 5 hours total, and most of that was trying to get the car in the air.
 
Look forward to hearing how you got on Wilbo, might have you help me at some point....well, when, when I say help me....


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All done, took about 4.5 hours in total but that is doing a proper job of wire brushing and greasing everything, which should avoid any discs being stuck on in the future. Needed to call the old man to get the troublesome one off in the end although they were all fairly seized.

Now I have new pagid discs, textar e-pads, HEL lines and castrol react fluid. Should be a good improvement and ready for some track time.
 
Great stuff!

Let me know how you get in with the e-pads as I'm thinking of those soon.

Matt


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mj2k said:
Great stuff!

Let me know how you get in with the e-pads as I'm thinking of those soon.

Matt


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+1

How much fluid did you use out of interest when bleeding the new brakes? I'm
Thinking if changing my fluid to a similar one but not sure how much I need.

Thanks

Ash
 
hopz121 said:
mj2k said:
Great stuff!

Let me know how you get in with the e-pads as I'm thinking of those soon.

Matt


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+1

How much fluid did you use out of interest when bleeding the new brakes? I'm
Thinking if changing my fluid to a similar one but not sure how much I need.

Thanks

Ash

I've read 1L for a full change Ash, but sure Dave can confirm


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mj2k said:
hopz121 said:
mj2k said:
Great stuff!

Let me know how you get in with the e-pads as I'm thinking of those soon.

Matt


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

+1

How much fluid did you use out of interest when bleeding the new brakes? I'm
Thinking if changing my fluid to a similar one but not sure how much I need.

Thanks

Ash

I've read 1L for a full change Ash, but sure Dave can confirm


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
I had them done by a BMW Indy (bowser134 on here) and I supplied 2 litres for a thorough flush as I was changing to castrol react which is basically a dot4 but with high boiling qualities like dot5.1. I believe 1 litre should usually be enough but if a jobs worth doing....
 
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