Digging a shallow pit... Advice needed from anyone in building trade and air compressor recommendations?

[Beedub]

Hi guys, Need some advice from anyone in the building trade.

@ my detailing studio i have scissor ramps.... they sit a 4-5" off the floor. I currently drive onto some home made DIY ramps to simulate a flush to the floor ramp , (Pic below).... what i'm wanting to do is cut a section out the floor so the ramps sit IN the floor.... This would allow me to do away with the bulky drive on ramp and store another vehicle in the studio to be worked on without having to move these very heavy pieces of wood ...

I have looked at the Race ramps 4" lift risers set which would allow me to simply stack these up neatly in the corner but for €938 for two strips of vulcanised rubber, im thinking the shallow pit may be the better solution for the money not to mention a neater solution. I cant get hold of my usual builder at the moment, anyone got an idea how much this would cost? and is this something DiYable?

excuse the crappy pic but it gives an idea of the dimensions of the floor cut out needed.

Secondly ...
Also while we are here anyone recommend a solid air compressor 100L that wont break the bank?? I need to add one at the unit.

Thanks in advance guys!

 

[john-e89]

Depends on what the floor is made of Byron, if it’s solid concrete, which I’d assume it is, then an oblong which would allow the ramp to sit in could easily be cut out using a stone saw with cross cuts to then hack out. You would then finish with floor leveller to make it smooth. The downside of this is the dust created, but as it’s a unit once the dust has settled it’s just a matter of sweeping up. It would be pretty labour intensive though, but a good day should see it done and floor leveller poured.

 

[Anonymous]

I bought a 50L compressor from SGS and it has been great. Their 100L ones are very well priced too

 

[Mr Tidy]

As John says it should be possible as a DIY job with a stone saw, or a large angle grinder - but you'll be amazed at the amount of dust you'll get!

The only thing I'd want to look into is the depth of the floor screed as it's probably got a damp-proof membrane under it, and you don't want to go through that.

 

[john-e89]

Sealey, Draper, Wolfair are all very good makes for compressors, my Wolfair is years old and I’ve had zero problems with it. Buy the best, buy cheap you buy twice.

 

[Beedub]

Ok so this is sound like abit more work than i first anticipated.... possible to do for under a grand or am i dreaming? The unit is very clean so huge amounts of dust would bother me abit tbh but.... i guess ill have to deal with it.

Re the compressor was looking at this ....

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-tiger-161010-3hp-100-litre-air-compres/

 

[Beedub]

cheers for the input guys.

 

[john-e89]

As John says it should be possible as a DIY job with a stone saw, or a large angle grinder - but you'll be amazed at the amount of dust you'll get!

The only thing I'd want to look into is the depth of the floor screed as it's probably got a damp-proof membrane under it, and you don't want to go through that.

I’d assume the floor would be 12” plus on an industrial floor with reinforced concrete Mr T but you make a very valid point, a test drill would be wise to assess the actual thickness,

 

[john-e89]

Ok so this is sound like abit more work than i first anticipated.... possible to do for under a grand or am i dreaming? The unit is very clean so huge amounts of dust would bother me abit tbh but.... i guess ill have to deal with it.

Re the compressor was looking at this ....

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-tiger-161010-3hp-100-litre-air-compres/

You can’t cut a concrete floor without dust I’m afraid, even using water there will still be a lot of dust. A few hours cleaning will see it back to normal though. A grand should see it done and finished.

Airmaster are a well known make of compressor and I’m sure M Mart will give you warranty, Ive not heard of them giving any problems but I’ve not had any experience of them personally.

 

[Paulwirral]

You really need to get a sds drill with a hammer chisel function and chisel out a test hole to your required depth to see how deep damp proof course and steel re-enforcing are , you'll also get an idea of how difficult it may be to dig out a large section . Then dig down to see what depth concrete is left to make sure it'll take the load you require .
If you've got enough depth to avoid the re-enforcing bars you can hire a large concrete cutter that you connect to a water supply , It's messy rather than dusty , set the depth you need and cut away . It's a push along machine your looking for , larger hire chains should be able to supply one . Cut out your outline then cross cut into small sections and chisel out with a large sds type chisel . Just keep in mind that the blades are expensive and if you cut through steel you'll damage the blade and get charged for it !
My main concerns would be depth of steel and depth left for actual loading , not just the physical effort .

 

[john-e89]

You could also forget cutting it out and raise the rest of the floor instead. 4x3 or 4x4 timbers, depending on how high you want it, screwed to the floor topped with good quality ply, ie, marine ply, topped with rubber floor tiles for eg. This would let you put in air points as well so you’re not trailing air line around the floor. Lengths of checker plate bent at one side would make a neat good looking ramp onto the new floor.

 

[patriot66]

I bought one of these back in January and for the money it's bloody great !

Plenty of combos/packages on EBay
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253886576026

 

[Beedub]

You could also forget cutting it out and raise the rest of the floor instead. 4x3 or 4x4 timbers, depending on how high you want it, screwed to the floor topped with good quality ply, ie, marine ply, topped with rubber floor tiles for eg. This would let you put in air points as well so you’re not trailing air line around the floor. Lengths of checker plate bent at one side would make a neat good looking ramp onto the new floor.

Thats a great idea.....

 

[Beedub]

I bought one of these back in January and for the money it's bloody great !
20180119_153805.png
Plenty of combos/packages on EBay
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253886576026

how much if you dont mind??? i think im going to need a 100L unit as i need to be able to power air sanders etc.

 

[Paulwirral]

You could also forget cutting it out and raise the rest of the floor instead. 4x3 or 4x4 timbers, depending on how high you want it, screwed to the floor topped with good quality ply, ie, marine ply, topped with rubber floor tiles for eg. This would let you put in air points as well so you’re not trailing air line around the floor. Lengths of checker plate bent at one side would make a neat good looking ramp onto the new floor.

Judging by the murals on your wall in the garage your using it as a commercial enterprise?
I'd check your insurance regarding fire hazards before laying a timber floor , you may be better off shuttering out the ramp area and laying a fibre re-enforced concrete screed , you'll be able to shape the ramp up to suit yourself too .

 

[Crazy Harry]

A word of caution here. The concrete under your lift is support the load of the car once you lift it what your proposing is reducing the thickness and hoping that say half the thickness will still support the same load from the lift - possibly without the reinforcement mesh if you've cut through it.

I'd be asking if anyone has plans of the unit or other in the block - or have carried out alterations and know the floor construction before deciding the your next move.

As they say anything is possible even if it involves cutting more floor out; digging deeper footings for the lift and making good the DPM before reforming the floor. I always like a set of calcs from a structural engineer then if anything happens (cracked floor/lift failure) my insurance chases his!

 

[john-e89]

You could also forget cutting it out and raise the rest of the floor instead. 4x3 or 4x4 timbers, depending on how high you want it, screwed to the floor topped with good quality ply, ie, marine ply, topped with rubber floor tiles for eg. This would let you put in air points as well so you’re not trailing air line around the floor. Lengths of checker plate bent at one side would make a neat good looking ramp onto the new floor.

Judging by the murals on your wall in the garage your using it as a commercial enterprise?
I'd check your insurance regarding fire hazards before laying a timber floor , you may be better off shuttering out the ramp area and laying a fibre re-enforced concrete screed , you'll be able to shape the ramp up to suit yourself too .

Very easy to flame proof timber though to meet current regs. Take your choice.

 

[patriot66]

I bought one of these back in January and for the money it's bloody great !
20180119_153805.png
Plenty of combos/packages on EBay
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253886576026

how much if you dont mind??? i think im going to need a 100L unit as i need to be able to power air sanders etc.

I got the 100 litre version with a 13 piece air tool kit for about £200. I bought a 30 ft air hose locally which reaches out of the garage and right round the car with ease.

 

[Beedub]

I bought one of these back in January and for the money it's bloody great !
20180119_153805.png
Plenty of combos/packages on EBay

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253886576026

how much if you dont mind??? i think im going to need a 100L unit as i need to be able to power air sanders etc.

I got the 100 litre version with a 13 piece air tool kit for about £200. I bought a 30 ft air hose locally which reaches out of the garage and right round the car with ease.

PERFECT.... thankyou!! Job done!! and ordered!

 

[patriot66]

how much if you dont mind??? i think im going to need a 100L unit as i need to be able to power air sanders etc.

I got the 100 litre version with a 13 piece air tool kit for about £200. I bought a 30 ft air hose locally which reaches out of the garage and right round the car with ease.

PERFECT.... thankyou!! Job done!! and ordered!