westcoastmotors said:
Thanks for the info. Not sure yet if I'm going to attempt this repair myself or take it to the dealer. If anyone has a link to remove the soft top assembly, please let me know.
No link but I changed one at work yesterday
The complete hood needs to be removed to access the hydraulic unit, remove both seats, the rear centre trims and left and right speaker grilles.
Before removing the left and right trim panels the trims to the rear of the roll over bars need to be removed to access the two top screws that hold on the front trims, the rear ones just pull off to the rear. [ONCE REMOVED FEEL THE SEAT BELT GUIDE TRIM IT IS BLOODY SHARP AND CAN CATCH AND RIP THE HEADLINING]
After seeing others do this I always tape foam over the sharp edges.
There are four clips holding in the parcel shelf tray remove them and unclip it to remove it.
Pull the emergency release cable and open the hood halfway
Undo the rear hood rail [five 10mm hex bolts] and unclip the hood seal from the bodywork, the front edges of the rail are hooked in two clips and need to be levered out with a plastic wedge to avoid body damage.
The catch inbetween the two roll over bars needs to be removed and the other plastic trim behind them clipped into the boot carpet at the front edge of the boot just below roll over bars.
Disconect all the wiring plugs at left and right and unclip the wiring.
Remove the left and right seals at the top of the B-posts, early ones are clipped in later ones held in place with double sided tape.
[Have a good look around and make sure I haven't forgotten to tell you anything else] 
the main hood bolts are two T-40 torx bolts at each left and right inner B-post [lower ones behind a grommett], once these are undone with the help of some other people it needs to come up at the front down at the back and move back in towards the boot slightly to enable the front to pull right up and lift the complete hood up and out.
There is a special tool to mount the hood on for ease of work but we did manage before we had one it's just bloody awkward.
Once out the hydraulic unit is inside a plastic cover [if not it should be] once fitted the hood needs to be powered up and opened and closed and the oil level checked, with the reservoir at the top the level should be in line with the + sign the filler screw in the top can be removed to adjust the level accordingly, I'll try and remember to see if it should be opened or closed tomorrow.
once all that is ok the hydraulic unit should be sealed back inside the plastic housing using 'Butyl Cord Sealant' to make it water tight.
Unblock the drain holes in the B-post compartments where the hydraulic unit and rams fit, that is usually the reason the water sits in there.
Then refit the hood assembly
PS "I hope I never have to do one again"
" and mind that headlining, they are like tissue paper"
Any damaged cause by me not stating every step is at your risk :wink:
Cheers 