Detailing SOS

thorpyuk

Member
 Tamworth
Hi everyone!

I recently got myself a nice 2.5si in midnight blue metallic with come cream leather interior - it's a lovely car, but it's desperately in need of some serious TLC.


The interior i think i should be able to handle, but if anyone can recommend something that will work well with the cream leather, please do!

As for the exterior, it's in need of a damn good polish! The paint looks like it's never been detailed, or even cleaned properly :s

It's covered with mostly fine scratches, with a few 'medium' scratches, and then a couple of small dinks which have managed to get through to the metal.

My problem is i dont know where to even start.... i have no idea how to detail a vehicle properly. As for the raw materials, this is what i currently have in the garage:

1) some mcguires gold class shampoo
2) a bottle of T-Cut
3) a bug sponge lol

That's it! Any recommendations would be great - i've had a look at some other threads, but i dont really understand the process because i'm unfamiliar with some of the terms... eg, clay bar, beading etc

Any advice would be great, thanks :)
 
Well firstly I can help you by saying not to use any of those products on your Z!! Especially T-Cut! I'll PM you shortly
 
Nova2k7 said:
Well firstly I can help you by saying not to use any of those products on your Z!! Especially T-Cut! I'll PM you shortly

To be fair, the Megs shampoo is alright !
 
Here ya go

Step one is to put the T-cut and bug sponge in the bin.
the megs gold class as Bing has said is alright

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/generalImg/guide.gif

Beading is the effect water has when sitting on a well maintained polished and waxed car, the water literally looks like beads.
 
Nosa said:
Beading is the effect water has when sitting on a well maintained polished and waxed car, the water literally looks like beads.

Beading is nature's way of rewarding you for all your hard work, and apologising for having to rain. I love my beads :D
 
Ok this may be long so im sorry ha!

Ive been detailing my own vehicles to a decent level for some years. You have two options really, you can pay someone £100-£150+ to do it for you which tbh you would get excellent results. Ooorrr you can do it yourself and use the £150 for products you can use time and time again?

Now if you’re doing it yourself there are a few things you are going to need.

2 x Buckets (Halfords ones are fine)
1 x Wash mitt, they range from about £8 all the way to £25+ it needs to be wool or at least micro fibre!

[size=2]http://www.cleanyourcar.co....ars-microfibre-wash-mitt/prod_305.html[/size]
This would be fine

1 x Shampoo - Although i think you already have this and what you have is an excellent product.

1 x Clay bar, this is used to lift bonded contaminants from the paintwork and is essential for a perfect finish.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/detai...ltra-fine-detailing-clay-sampler/prod_83.html
something like this will be ok.

1 x Drying Towel – now this believe it or not is where most imperfections are inflicted onto the paint so it’s very important to get a good product

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/micro...-huge-39-fluffy-39-drying-towel/prod_634.html
something like this is an excellent towel.

1 x Polish - This is where things get more complicated! There is hundreds of polish all of which have different properties. Now i assume any polishing you wish to do will be by hand rather than a machine?? Keeping this in mind i would use the following polishes.
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/autoglym-ultra-deep-shine/prod_754.html
This is an excellent polish for hand although this is a non abrasive polish and won’t actually remove scratches this simply "fills" them for a period of time. For actually "correcting" the paint a machine polish is the only route really.

1 x Wax - Again as with the polish there are many many different options and these are only my personal preferences

now this wax although expensive should last a long long time and is excellent
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/dodo-juice/dodo-juice-blue-velvet/prod_404.html

Several Clothes and pads will be required, say 2 for applying and removing polish and 2 for applying and removing wax.

These foam pads are excellent for applying products
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/zaino/zaino-6-tri-foam-oval-applicator/prod_462.html
so two of these

and two of these for buffing the polish and wax off
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/micro...ic-fur-microfibre-buffing-cloth/prod_948.html


Process

Rinse
First is to rinse the vehicle down either just with some soapy water or with a jet wash, the idea or pre rinsing the vehicle is to loosen up any dirt so it can be safely washed of

Washing

Take one of the buckets and fill with warm soapy water, fill the second with just clean warm water.

Take the wash mitt and start with the first soapy bucket and clean 1 panel. Once this one panel has been cleaned rinse the mitt in the non soapy fresh water.
Then do this for ever panel on the car. This should mean that once all the car is done you have your first soapy bucket which still has clean water in an a second bucket with dirty water in. by doing this you are never take any contaminants from one panel to the next.

Clay Bar

While the vehicle is still soapy this is a good time to clay the vehicle. I will cover claying in a little more detail

Using detailing clay to clay your car's paint will,

1: Claying safely removes Above Surface Bonded Contaminants

2: Claying paint enable your choice of wax or paint sealant to better bond or adhere to the paint.

3: Claying paint restores a silky, smooth, clean surface.

4: Claying paint makes polishing easier, more effective and safer.

Let’s take a little deeper look at these benefits...



1: Claying safely removes Above Surface Bonded Contaminants

Over time, if your car is parked outside for any length of time during each day then any dirt or air-borne contaminants that land on the paint will tend to bond to the paint if they are not removed in a timely manner. Once they bond to the paint some of them won't come off just from normal washing. This is where detailing clay comes into the picture.

Detailing clay uses special abrasives that have the ability to basically sand-off any contaminants sitting on top of the surface without installing scratches into your car's paint at the same time. In the old days, people would use coarse rubbing compounds to remove above surface bonded contaminants and while these types of products would work they would also,
• Instil scratches into the paint
• Remove perfectly good paint

That's two negative things you don't want to do your car's precious clear layer of paint.

2: Claying paint enables your choice of wax or paint sealant to better bond or adhere to the paint.

Claying paint restores a clean surface so a coating of wax or paint sealant can maximize the bond between the paint and the protection ingredients. This helps to insure the wax or paint sealant coating will last a long time and thus protect a long time, and this is something all people want out of their choice of car wax or paint sealant.

3: Claying paint restores a silky, smooth, clean surface
I think we can all agree that a great looking paint job is a glossy looking paint job and gloss comes from a smooth surface.

When air-borne contaminants build-up on your car's finish they create an irregular surface or texture that feels rough or bumpy to the touch. This un-even, bumpy surface due to above surface bonded contaminants reduces gloss. Claying your car's paint will remove the contaminants, this restores a smooth surface and this in return restores a high gloss finish




4: Claying paint makes polishing easier, more effective and safer

In the context of this section, when we say polishing, we mean abrading the paint to remove below surface defects and/or refine the existing finish to a higher level.
• By removing any above surface bonded contaminants first, you enable your polish and pad to immediately go to work on the paint with nothing on the surface in the way.
• You make the polishing action smoother as your polish and pad will move over the surface easier with less potential for hopping or grabbing.
• You reduce the potential for accidental marring of the paint during the buffing process since there are not contaminants that can come loose and become trapped between the pad and the paint.
Now using the clay bar and the lubricant that is supplied with it you gently go over each panel with the bar, remembering to re mould the bar once dirty.

Once the vehicle has been clayed then it needs to be rinsed down again ensuring all soap is removed.

Drying

This is self explanatory really, using the drying towel ensure that the top panels facing the sun are done first to prevent any drying spots.

Polishing

Now there any many ways of doing this but I will assume this is going to be done by hand.

Taking an applicator pad, apply 2 small pea size blobs of polish and using a circular motion begin to work the selected panel. Once the polish begins to “haze” then stop. Continue to do this over the entire vehicle until every panel has been done.

Once you have done the last panel move back to the first with a buffing cloth and begin to remove the hazed polish.

Waxing

This is really the exact same process as polishing except most waxes require that once they have been applied they are left to “cure” for 20-30 mins before being buffed off.

Remember with wax however that less is more and waxing a vehicle on a very hot day is not a good idea, as once the wax has been applied the hot sun stops the wax curing and becomes a nightmare to remove.


If you want to know about machine polishing I can help you with this as well!

If you do this then you get this

6143cc81.jpg

38d76d00.jpg

abecaed9.jpg
 
To be honest I do mine and if you follow Nova's guide you well be well satisfied with the results. (well for a while anyway, then the machine itch will start :wink: )

Well written Nova excellent advice :thumbsup:
 
+5! Thanks for a great write up! Honestly, it's such a great colour, and it's a shame it's not been shown the love it deserves!!! I'll have to wait until the weekend to do the exterior, but the interior is pretty clean at last. The leather is very slightly worn in places, but there's nothing to get that back once it's gone, but it's much cleaner than it was for sure!

Thanks again :)
 
Ok, update on this one!

Today i went to Halfrauds, and got the following:

1) microfibre car sponge
2) microfibre chamois leather
3) two peachskin polishing cloths
4) McGuires #2 deep polish

I can't afford to get everything i'll need this month as i've just bought the car, so i'm thinking at least now i can wash it effectively, and polish it up where needed.

Clay, scratch remover, and wax to follow!
 
Ok, further update!

Another £20 later, and Autoglym super resin polish, a hand applicator, and more microfibre cloths later. I now feel i have everything apart from wax & clay...

I spent 3 hours washing & polishing the car - this is what i did:

1) was all the wheels using a wheel cleaner
2) wash the body with mcguires gold class using the '2 bucket' method
3) dry off with chamois
4) polish entire car with super resin - some panels 3 applications, some 2, and some just 1 application.

The result afterwards was decent, BUT i didn't think the super resin had a good enough effect :( Was i not buffing hard enough? Did i not put enough layers on?

There's still loads of fine scratches on the car, and although they seem marginely better, i'm starting to lose the faith :(
 
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