Decision time: keep or sell? Advice, please.

I was informed the other day by Manor Park that the Z4 E89 has likely bottomed out and good ones will become sort after. I was enquiring about another car they were auctioning and got into discussion on cars in general. Basically, put it away and it may hold its value for you. But there’s no science behind that.

I’d have kept (almost) every car I’ve owned (25+) if I didn’t need to cash in to buy the next one. If you’re still enjoying it, keep it. I went out and bought a 10 year old Mercedes to run around in (so I could keep the Z4). And I love that car almost as much (and it cost a snip compared to new metal) ans the Zed and it’s probably being overly cared for because if it.
 
jenniferlouise said:
I was informed the other day by Manor Park that the Z4 E89 has likely bottomed out and good ones will become sort after. I was enquiring about another car they were auctioning and got into discussion on cars in general. Basically, put it away and it may hold its value for you. But there’s no science behind that.

I’d have kept (almost) every car I’ve owned (25+) if I didn’t need to cash in to buy the next one. If you’re still enjoying it, keep it. I went out and bought a 10 year old Mercedes to run around in (so I could keep the Z4). And I love that car almost as much (and it cost a snip compared to new metal) ans the Zed and it’s probably being overly cared for because if it.

I don't want to derail the thread with a discussion about future values, but I think current E85 values suggest that the E89 still has some way to go before they hit bottom.

Even so, if a 100k mile 35is is worth £10k now, it's probably still a £6k car further down the line with 150k on the clock, so there isn't a lot to lose.
 
Back on topic…

The argument about ageing components is a valid one …each model with its own collection of parts will age in various ways…

From what I can see the E89 seems like it can run forever if the parts that do wear are replaced either either OE or uprated parts for a long long time..

Especially if those parts are replaced as part of a wider program..eg when changing discs n pads do a few suspension bushes..

Compared to how much money buying and selling and depreciation are going to affect a newer car.

Yes the N54 in the 35is has its issues, but if you can afford to ride them out or securitise them with a good warranty it’s not a bad combo.

I ride quite often in a 145k miler 2009 E89 and it feels pretty tight..yes it’s had some Bilstein b6 shocks and some Kumho tyres but apart from that it’s pretty original.

There is no newer logical replacement..ie a good looking roadster with the top up or down..

Lots of pretty roadsters top down but top up….

Well that’s my story and I’m sticking with it.. :rofl:
 
tiglon said:
jenniferlouise said:
I was informed the other day by Manor Park that the Z4 E89 has likely bottomed out and good ones will become sort after. I was enquiring about another car they were auctioning and got into discussion on cars in general. Basically, put it away and it may hold its value for you. But there’s no science behind that.

I’d have kept (almost) every car I’ve owned (25+) if I didn’t need to cash in to buy the next one. If you’re still enjoying it, keep it. I went out and bought a 10 year old Mercedes to run around in (so I could keep the Z4). And I love that car almost as much (and it cost a snip compared to new metal) ans the Zed and it’s probably being overly cared for because if it.

I don't want to derail the thread with a discussion about future values, but I think current E85 values suggest that the E89 still has some way to go before they hit bottom.

Even so, if a 100k mile 35is is worth £10k now, it's probably still a £6k car further down the line with 150k on the clock, so there isn't a lot to lose.

This is a really good point Tiglon, I had a new Kuga hybrid delivered a few weeks ago (company car and PHEV - can’t do full electric) with a P60 value of nearly £39k - this will be worth, what, £12k-£15k in 4 years time.

Keeping your current car potentially reduces your maximum loss over time.

Having said that; If I was in your position, and really loved the E89/35i/is, I think I’d be very tempted to go and look at the Yellow low mileage one that was linked elsewhere on the forum. That does look like a potentially great example, in a striking colour, with very high quality suspension modifications.. a standard airbox would be an easy re-fit.

This one https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/15786510
 
Z4-ers ...
Busterboo said:
Thank you all for your replies so far.
1 The sale/part-ex value of my present 35iS doesn't bother me, insofar as it'll go for what it goes
2 BMW's Insured Warranty is, in my experience, excellent
(and doesn't "insist on replacing just one injector each time")
 
Busterboo said:
Z4-ers ...
Busterboo said:
Thank you all for your replies so far.
1 The sale/part-ex value of my present 35iS doesn't bother me, insofar as it'll go for what it goes
2 BMW's Insured Warranty is, in my experience, excellent
(and doesn't "insist on replacing just one injector each time")

What are you looking for here? The internet’s experts to agree you should keep your current car?!

Sell it, buy the Yellow one, take a warranty on that one

Or Keep it :tumbleweed:

Clearly you’ve had cause to claim on BMW’s warranty- but you haven’t responded to questions about how reliable or otherwise the current car has been?
 
Nictrix said:
Keep the car and stick the money you would have spent on the warranty in a savings account in case you need it.
That savings account will have to have a heavenly interest rate to pay out anywhere near as much as BMW's Insured Warranty. :)
 
If the only potential replacement seems to be a lower mileage 35is I'd keep the one you have with the warranty in place.

Obviously that's different if you fancy a change, but you seem to have ruled out the obvious alternatives!
 
True-Blue said:
Clearly you’ve had cause to claim on BMW’s warranty- but you haven’t responded to questions about how reliable or otherwise the current car has been?
Good point., thank you. I've kept a record on the Forum's Problems - Topics - E89 Comprehensive Problem List.
 
Busterboo said:
matsmith749 said:
I'm guessing it's an early e89 - maybe 2010?
13 years old, 100k miles. Every bearing, bush, rubber part will be close to (or have exceeded) it's lifespan.
How do you know that?

Do a search on lifespan for automotive rubber parts - manufacturer 'estimates' are 10-15 years.

Do I 'know for sure' this is the case? Not really, but my experience of cars over 10 years old is that once you replace the brakes you need to do the tyres then the battery goes then the wipers are flaky then you do that & the suspension is knocking so you fix that then there is a bit of welding to pass the MOT so you do that, then something else is knocking so you fix that, then the injectors are problematic so you fix that, then the thermostat goes so you do that ....... neverending maintenance.

'Know for sure' - no.

'Manufacturer states itis the case' - yes. 'Matches up with my experience' - yes.
 
I reckon an MX5 is the way to go. You won't need an extended warranty...they are Japanese! :thumbsup:

Keep the remainder of your £35k in the bank at 5% and go on a cruise next year on the interest!

Right...that's that topic sorted.....NEXT! :D
 
Both have been spot on - no issues at all.

Well, I had the leaky inducator issue & mild random roof bongs in the 2010 one - but nothing serious. Kept it about 18 months before selling (about 4 years old when I sold it).

2016 car has been faultless so far (12 months)
 
matsmith749 said:
Busterboo said:
matsmith749 said:
I'm guessing it's an early e89 - maybe 2010?
13 years old, 100k miles. Every bearing, bush, rubber part will be close to (or have exceeded) it's lifespan.
How do you know that?

Do a search on lifespan for automotive rubber parts - manufacturer 'estimates' are 10-15 years.

Do I 'know for sure' this is the case? Not really, but my experience of cars over 10 years old is that once you replace the brakes you need to do the tyres then the battery goes then the wipers are flaky then you do that & the suspension is knocking so you fix that then there is a bit of welding to pass the MOT so you do that, then something else is knocking so you fix that, then the injectors are problematic so you fix that, then the thermostat goes so you do that ....... neverending maintenance.

'Know for sure' - no.

'Manufacturer states itis the case' - yes. 'Matches up with my experience' - yes.

My 30i is now 14 years old and I've had it 4 years use it daily and have had zero issues, just regular servicing. Recently changed the front suspension components not because they had failed but becuase I wanted to upgrade them to the M3 bits. Having done that yes of course the car feels like new at the front thanks to those new components and I suspect the same goes if I changed the shocks and springs and rear bushes etc too, yet you wouldn't know any different if you just stayed with the old components.
 
That's exactly my point - you noticed the big difference once you changed them BECAUSE THEY WERE WORN.

10 year old rubber bushes with 100k on them are not in perfect shape.

Just saying.

Ive test driven loads of older cars, and absolutely could tell that they were tired & would need work.

It doesn't stop them driving down the road.

Are we disagreeing on this super basic point? You think 10 year old 100k rubber parts / bushes / bearings are not close to our exceeding their stated srrvice life?
 
matsmith749 said:
That's exactly my point - you noticed the big difference once you changed them BECAUSE THEY WERE WORN.

10 year old rubber bushes with 100k on them are not in perfect shape.

Just saying.

Ive test driven loads of older cars, and absolutely could tell that they were tired & would need work.

It doesn't stop them driving down the road.

Are we disagreeing on this super basic point? You think 10 year old 100k rubber parts / bushes / bearings are not close to our exceeding their stated srrvice life?

What I am saying is that yes they do wear BUT whilst you can tell that they are worn MOST people cannot unless they are that badly worn to the point of failure where you have knocking noises, MOT failures or other handling issues. Most of the time they are worn but not out so to speak and most people would be quite happy driving along not knowing the difference.
 
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