It's surely a no brainer, use the best oil available no matter the cost as it protects arguably the most important component on a vehicle, and even the most expensive oil doesn't cost as much as a full tank of fuel which you could easily use up in a day and the oil does it's job for an average of 12-15k miles. For the job it does it's virtually free.
Daft oil change question
- Thread starter mj2k
- Start date
I have always used good quality oils in my cars or bikes and always will but there are people who say that you are paying for the brand name and that a lot of the cheaper oils are actually made by the bigger companys.
I suppose its the same argument as the petrol one whether or not the cheaper supermarket fuels are the same or not.
I suppose its the same argument as the petrol one whether or not the cheaper supermarket fuels are the same or not.
abar121
Active member
In most cars (and motorcycles come to that), I would be happy using cheaper fully synthetic oils. I've used the Halfords fully synthetic oils in many vehicles and never had a problem. They are usually produced by comma (an Exxon / Mobil company) and can be ridiculously cheap, especially with a trade card.
On the S54, I stick with the recommended Castrol TWS oil, given that it was developed with the factory M engineers at the time when the earlier issues that the motor had in the E46 M3, were prevalent. Given the unique complexities of the M diff, I would also stick to their recommendation on this.
But it's a personal choice. Others swear by Redline products, or oils with more zinc in them. I don't really have enough experience so will take the easy option and put my faith in BMWs engineers on this one.
On a car that's regularly tracked or putting out significantly more power, I would deffo change the oil on a more regular basis.
On the S54, I stick with the recommended Castrol TWS oil, given that it was developed with the factory M engineers at the time when the earlier issues that the motor had in the E46 M3, were prevalent. Given the unique complexities of the M diff, I would also stick to their recommendation on this.
But it's a personal choice. Others swear by Redline products, or oils with more zinc in them. I don't really have enough experience so will take the easy option and put my faith in BMWs engineers on this one.
On a car that's regularly tracked or putting out significantly more power, I would deffo change the oil on a more regular basis.
Right, a few weeks now until I need to do it....
Found this from Opie http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pv-154179-castrol-edge-titanium-10w-60-fst-for-bmw-m-series-fully-synthetic-engine-oil-oil-and-filter-service-pack-6l-mahle-oil-filter-ox187d.aspx?vehicleid=16906&yearfilter=2007&FitmentNotes=
However, I enquired about whether the drain bolt crush washer was included, as no reference to it.
Received this back from Tim...."It will have all of the O-rings and should have the crush washer too (although I wouldn't guarantee there will be a washer)"
Not exactly clear! Has anyone ordered this kit that could advise please?
Matt
Found this from Opie http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pv-154179-castrol-edge-titanium-10w-60-fst-for-bmw-m-series-fully-synthetic-engine-oil-oil-and-filter-service-pack-6l-mahle-oil-filter-ox187d.aspx?vehicleid=16906&yearfilter=2007&FitmentNotes=
However, I enquired about whether the drain bolt crush washer was included, as no reference to it.
Received this back from Tim...."It will have all of the O-rings and should have the crush washer too (although I wouldn't guarantee there will be a washer)"
Not exactly clear! Has anyone ordered this kit that could advise please?
Matt
I get a MANN oil filter from ECP/CarParts4Less - that includes both 'o' rings and a crush washer. Plus they're about £5 - I recall looking at Opie's kits and not thinking they were good value.
mj2k said:Scooba_Steve said:
Cheers Steve, will get the filter from ECP and then just the oil from opie
I take it the kits are a bit more? I can't remember but I don't need a paper funnel and gloves...!
CP4L are usually cheaper on ebay rather than their site - unless you're getting the discount for 50/75/100+ spend. Poly RTABs are only £40
pvr said:Will this be the first outing of the jack then?
If it is - good lad, DIY is the mark of a loving owner
Tips (excuse teaching to suck eggs):
Don't rush
Don't get squashed
For an oil change I jack up onto ramps one side at a time. If I'm honest you can probably get away with just doing one side, though I found some 'wiggling' was needed each side to get the last little bit out.
Don't get a 14L pan like I did... you can't lower the car onto it!
Scooba_Steve said:pvr said:Will this be the first outing of the jack then?
If it is - good lad, DIY is the mark of a loving owner
Tips (excuse teaching to suck eggs):
Don't rush
Don't get squashed
Do make a will - leave everything to PVR
For an oil change I jack up onto ramps one side at a time. If I'm honest you can probably get away with just doing one side, though I found some 'wiggling' was needed each side to get the last little bit out.
Don't get a 14L pan like I did... you can't lower the car onto it!
Corrected that for you
Scooba_Steve said:pvr said:Will this be the first outing of the jack then?
If it is - good lad, DIY is the mark of a loving owner
Tips (excuse teaching to suck eggs):
Don't rush
Don't get squashed
For an oil change I jack up onto ramps one side at a time. If I'm honest you can probably get away with just doing one side, though I found some 'wiggling' was needed each side to get the last little bit out.
Don't get a 14L pan like I did... you can't lower the car onto it!
I was just going to jack the front, good call on both sides.
Think I was going to go large on the pan, just to be safe - great insight
First time ever changing oil, always paid before...just hope I don't get any leaks, an expensive mistake on this engine if I get it wrong!
And yes, first jack usage too - chickened out before trying to clear the drains as the light gravel in the Tarmac kept making the jack jerk & basically got nervous - will man up & also put the jack on some ply so it moves smoothly on its wheels.
pvr said:Scooba_Steve said:pvr said:Will this be the first outing of the jack then?
If it is - good lad, DIY is the mark of a loving owner
Tips (excuse teaching to suck eggs):
Don't rush
Don't get squashed
Do make a will - leave everything to PVR
For an oil change I jack up onto ramps one side at a time. If I'm honest you can probably get away with just doing one side, though I found some 'wiggling' was needed each side to get the last little bit out.
Don't get a 14L pan like I did... you can't lower the car onto it!
Corrected that for you
:lol:
You can use the front centre (I don't have that luxury) but I think you might find it lifts a little higher at the sides due to the jacking point covers. I can only just about lift onto ramps.
You can use the front centre (I don't have that luxury) but I think you might find it lifts a little higher at the sides due to the jacking point covers. I can only just about lift onto ramps.
I am assuming this is fine for an oil pan?
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/BMW_Z4M+Roadster_3.2_2007/p/tools/workshop-tools/lubrication/oil-drainer/?SEADRP02&0&t5_549
Large enough to hold the 5.5L but small enough to lower the car over.
Having read the E89 oil change woes, I have a building concern about this. Due to do it in another 600 miles, so finally getting around to ordering the bits. So far: Mann Oil Filter with all the washers, 6L of Edge 10W60, just the oil pan left I believe?
Aside from checking I have all the right sockets before starting that is!
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/BMW_Z4M+Roadster_3.2_2007/p/tools/workshop-tools/lubrication/oil-drainer/?SEADRP02&0&t5_549
Large enough to hold the 5.5L but small enough to lower the car over.
Having read the E89 oil change woes, I have a building concern about this. Due to do it in another 600 miles, so finally getting around to ordering the bits. So far: Mann Oil Filter with all the washers, 6L of Edge 10W60, just the oil pan left I believe?
Aside from checking I have all the right sockets before starting that is!
CornishRob
Senior member
Something like this might help get your head around it. Havent check to see if the procedure is correct though
http://www.billswebspace.com/Z4MS54OilChange.htm
http://www.billswebspace.com/Z4MS54OilChange.htm