CSL disc disintegrating??

Pbondar said:
Lower said:
Pbondar said:
Seems like pretty straightforward galling caused by using a stainless steel disc and aggressive (their words) incomparable pad..

https://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=12 Refers
I've never heard of car brake discs being made of stainless steel. If they are, they are certainly not up to the job.

I think they are just poor quality discs.

If you look at the picture, it doesn't seem to me to be the usual cast iron disc..lack of corrosion seems to indicate a different materal?
I have seen markings like this before on bike discs where most of these are stainless as far as I know.
 
Them discs, original or not, are not stainless, you can see the casting marks in the holes, they have internal venting, it's impossible to machine that. They are cast iron.

The brake pads also have a high iron content, now think about it, what's likely to break down under high temperature and pressure, the 20kg cast disc or the 200gram pad that can't dissipate the heat.

I used similar (hugely recommended etc etc) high iron content pads in the past on oem discs on another car and my discs cracked in half. Tried uprated discs etc etc in the end, different pads solved it and the braking was better and more consistent. Some pads just generate much more heat than others with similar performance, once they get hot the braking force drops off and you end up killing the discs.
 
Update: exactly the same has happened on oem discs. Front and rear running rc5+ after 3 or so track days.

Braking performance was excellent except towards the end of the stint on only very deep into the pedal.

Running cup2’s

Not tried the skim yet but will get all 8 done most likely as the price of new is madness for 3 track days.

The pads are barely worn which is incredible as I was getting through yellow stuffs in a single day and these must be on 8.

After a skim I’ll go with a much softer pad and possible some direct to disc cooling ducts or at least remove the heat shields.

Such a strange problem. I personally feel it is the pads but a swap will see. I might try the ebc race pad or blue stuff. Or maybe ds2500
 
z4mcc said:
Update: exactly the same has happened on oem discs. Front and rear running rc5+ after 3 or so track days.

Braking performance was excellent except towards the end of the stint on only very deep into the pedal.

Running cup2’s

Not tried the skim yet but will get all 8 done most likely as the price of new is madness for 3 track days.

The pads are barely worn which is incredible as I was getting through yellow stuffs in a single day and these must be on 8.

After a skim I’ll go with a much softer pad and possible some direct to disc cooling ducts or at least remove the heat shields.

Such a strange problem. I personally feel it is the pads but a swap will see. I might try the ebc race pad or blue stuff. Or maybe ds2500

Ouch! Depending how many track days you do a year I'd consider a BBK. Doesn't have to be crazy expensive. I've used K Sport fronts and OEM setup rears on 8 track days this year. Pagid RSL-29 pads, still got life in both front and rear and discs are also fine apart from some crazing on the front discs which is to be expected. Almost zero fade in 30 odd minute sessions, basically a fit and forget set up. Fine to use on the road also.
I'd be surprised if I didn't get another 4-5 track days out of the pads next year and same with the discs. I'd consider it personally, OEM setup could be a false economy depending how many days you do.
 
z4mcc said:
Update: exactly the same has happened on oem discs. Front and rear running rc5+ after 3 or so track days.

Braking performance was excellent except towards the end of the stint on only very deep into the pedal.

Running cup2’s

Not tried the skim yet but will get all 8 done most likely as the price of new is madness for 3 track days.

The pads are barely worn which is incredible as I was getting through yellow stuffs in a single day and these must be on 8.

After a skim I’ll go with a much softer pad and possible some direct to disc cooling ducts or at least remove the heat shields.

Such a strange problem. I personally feel it is the pads but a swap will see. I might try the ebc race pad or blue stuff. Or maybe ds2500
Were you getting the same issue with Yellowstuff pads? If not, it seems to imply the high metal RC6/RC5pads are not suitable.
 
I quite like performance friction 08 compound pads on my z4... easily did 8 full trackdays with excellent stopping power, and no sign they were eating the discs.

How long a session do you normally do on track?
 
Agree with Andy, I am using RSL29 with Brembo 4pots and stock rear calipers. Zero issues with brake disc damage or fade and brake pad life is very good, expect a minimum of five track days. While the initial cost is high for the pads, the fact that they last numerous track days makes them more cost effective than DS2500 or EBC yellow, which tend to last no more than two track days from previous experience.
 
z4mcc said:
Update: exactly the same has happened on oem discs. Front and rear running rc5+ after 3 or so track days.

Braking performance was excellent except towards the end of the stint on only very deep into the pedal.

Running cup2’s

Not tried the skim yet but will get all 8 done most likely as the price of new is madness for 3 track days.

The pads are barely worn which is incredible as I was getting through yellow stuffs in a single day and these must be on 8.

After a skim I’ll go with a much softer pad and possible some direct to disc cooling ducts or at least remove the heat shields.

Such a strange problem. I personally feel it is the pads but a swap will see. I might try the ebc race pad or blue stuff. Or maybe ds2500
How long are you out for each time?

Cup2s will be putting a lot more heat into the brakes

Ditch the dust shields, get some carbotechs xp10 or xp8s and some rbf fluid.

If you still cook them after that then bbk time :thumbsup:
 
Do you switch of the DSC? If not, the car will be cooking the brakes with every corner on a track day.
 
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