Convertible top with no signs life...

I was considering this and got wiring diagrams for the module/power systems. Hoping to find a way to manually trigger the relay, also would validate that the motor and relays are good. I'll give this a shot soon and see what happens, thanks for the tip!

And yes, I've tried replicating the manual release distance by referencing videos. There's a bit of pressure at that 1/8" mark and then some give slightly right after that, like something "clicks". So I imagine that's the bypass valve, but it's not... bypassing :|
 
YES! WE HAVE MOVEMENT!!
IMG_0239.jpg
I'll upload everything along with this for anyone else who might need to diagnose this issue or has a problem with the manual release. I got all the wiring diagrams for $15, and one was regarding the convertible top module connector pinout.

Use the allen key to undo the cowl clamps from the windshield bar
Then using a jumper wire like for circuit boards/Arduinos:
Connecting Pins 2 and 11 to get the top to retract.
Connecting Pins 2 and 12 reverse the pump and put the top back up.

Just to save everyone hassle, here's the diagram
top_module.jpg

I'll check on the hall sensors in the morning, it's 9pm and pitch black but now I can gain access to that area and investigate. Will report if I can get the module integrated back into the system since this isn't the most elegant solution. But hey it works and the pump is good, that's massive news after all this headache.
 
Just an update in case anyone has this issue in the future, my top is functioning 99% normal now. I should've written down every detail of my efforts with the top, but I can boil it down to this.
With the previous owners leaving the battery dead for multiple months, my hunch is that the top module lost track of its position.

Over the course of a few days once I knew how to use the connector to get the top to retract, I'd release the cowl motor using the Allen key and connect the wires to get the top to go down. My gripe was that the top didn't latch in the down state.
At some point, I tried connecting the module when the top was mostly down and using the interior down button. To my surprise, the car took over and completed the retraction process, locking it in place and turning off the flashing red LED. Also, the top would go back up without any problem.

I used my wire method a number of times and finally noticed it would only need to retract ~20%, and upon plugging the module back in, it'd finish the process. Finally, after using the interior buttons to put the top up one time, I used the top down button and it retracted without any real drama.
Either all of this relearned the position of the top, or it needed to be in a different starting state for the module to sort things out.

So anyone who has this, try connecting those pins and leaving the top in different positions. Each time, plug the module back in and see if it starts to work. There may be a sweet spot where it all clicks and the module is back to normal after a battery replacement.

The only quirks that exist now are probably specific to my car; I'm guessing it needs a hydraulic fluid top up. When the top starts to go down, it needs a little pull towards the rear to get it moving, like the motor can't overcome the initial force. And when the top is finishing the down process, I need to apply pressure over the rear latch area for it to catch. Maybe some air in the system make it 'spongey' and it can't exert the force required for these couple steps.
 
bmwzzzz said:
Just an update in case anyone has this issue in the future, my top is functioning 99% normal now. I should've written down every detail of my efforts with the top, but I can boil it down to this.
With the previous owners leaving the battery dead for multiple months, my hunch is that the top module lost track of its position.

Over the course of a few days once I knew how to use the connector to get the top to retract, I'd release the cowl motor using the Allen key and connect the wires to get the top to go down. My gripe was that the top didn't latch in the down state.
At some point, I tried connecting the module when the top was mostly down and using the interior down button. To my surprise, the car took over and completed the retraction process, locking it in place and turning off the flashing red LED. Also, the top would go back up without any problem.

I used my wire method a number of times and finally noticed it would only need to retract ~20%, and upon plugging the module back in, it'd finish the process. Finally, after using the interior buttons to put the top up one time, I used the top down button and it retracted without any real drama.
Either all of this relearned the position of the top, or it needed to be in a different starting state for the module to sort things out.

So anyone who has this, try connecting those pins and leaving the top in different positions. Each time, plug the module back in and see if it starts to work. There may be a sweet spot where it all clicks and the module is back to normal after a battery replacement.

The only quirks that exist now are probably specific to my car; I'm guessing it needs a hydraulic fluid top up. When the top starts to go down, it needs a little pull towards the rear to get it moving, like the motor can't overcome the initial force. And when the top is finishing the down process, I need to apply pressure over the rear latch area for it to catch. Maybe some air in the system make it 'spongey' and it can't exert the force required for these couple steps.
Click to expand...
Sorry for latching into your old post. I'm having roof issues as well.

At what point did you get lights back on your roof switch. I read that you started with no lights at all.

Thanks
 
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