Considering buying a Z4 2.5 si Sport (2006) - Any advice?

Varixto

Member
Hi,

I am new to the forum and am considering buying a Mk1 2006 2.5 si Sport. It has 104k miles on it and has full service history, 2 keys... Price is slightly sub £4k. I am also budgeting for an extra £2k for any potential preventative work/repairs. Does this sound like a sensible approach? (ie: buying a relatively high mileage example but having a large(ish) buffer in my budget for potential issues)... or would you try to buy a lower mileage example (obviously more expensive) with less budget for potential repairs?
Personally, I am not that obssessed with high mileage and I think it is more important to have a full service history + repair receipts.

However, I used to own a 225 MK1 TT which I got at the time with 80k miles on it...the worst car I have ever had! Everything that could possibly go wrong, went. Some time later I found a post in the TT forum I was a member of saying that Mk1 TT's were cars to get rid of once they reached 80/90k miles... It looks like mine was one of those! My biggest fear is that an old Z4 could be a similar story...

I have been doing as much research as possible about the Z4 and decided to go for a 06+ facelift model. I believe that I am aware of most of the common issues (ie: issues with roof motor--relocating it to the boot, broken rear springs, etc.).

After researching the car's MOT history, I can see that the latest one (ie: august 2024) is a clean PASS but 2 MOT's ago (sept. '23), it was a FAIL:

Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):
-Nearside Rear Road wheel fractured (5.2.2 (a))
-Offside Rear Road wheel fractured (5.2.2 (a))
Repair immediately (major defects):
-Nearside Front Shock absorbers has a serious fluid leak (5.3.2 (b))

---PLUS these advisories:

-Oil leak, but not excessive rocker gasket (8.4.1 (a) (i))
-Nearside Rear Fluid leak, but not excessive driveshaft seal (8.4.1 (a) (i))
-Rear Suspension component pin or bush slightly worn n/s+o/s trailing arm bush (5.3.4 (a) (i))
-Front Brake hose slightly deteriorated n/s+o/s (1.1.12 (b) (ii))

Previous MOT to that (aug. '22): PASS with these advisories:

-Front Exhaust mounting defective downpipes link bracket damaged and fixings missing (6.1.2 (a))
-Nearside Front Shock absorbers has light misting of oil (5.3.2 (b))
-Offside Rear Oil leak, but not excessive engine (8.4.1 (a) (i))
-Nearside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material radius arm (1.1.11 (c))
-Offside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material radius arm (1.1.11 (c))
-Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material both front to rear pipes corroded (1.1.11 (c))
-Nearside Rear Oil leak, but not excessive diff (8.4.1 (a) (i))
-Nearside Front Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material greased (1.1.11 (c))
-Offside Front Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material greased (1.1.11 (c))

As mentioned earlier, the latest MOT is a clean one (ie: no advisories at all). My main concerns are the corrosion of the brake pipes and the leaks being "camouflaged", etc... and/or cheap, budget parts being used by the trader/previous owner (ie: cheap shock absorbers, etc...) to fix the issues, affecting the longevity of the repairs.

Most of the obvious checks I can do myself but I was wondering if anyone could please provide any advice on what to look for / discuss with the trader when doing the viewing this particular model.

Thank you very much in advance for any advice given.
 
You have to put her up on a ramp to check these issues. Usually, a local garage will lend you the use of their ramp for a small fee. Go through all the receipts and invoices to see what exactly has been done. A model-specific code reader is a great thing to check for past and possible problems, not all faults flash up as a trouble code. If you give your location, and details of the car, a nearby member will be able to help read the codes with a suitable reader. There are plenty of cars for sale just a matter of patience to get the right one. This may not be the car for you
 
My concern would be that they only changed the leaking front shock, not both sides. Plus, did they change top mounts and bump stops. Check there is no cracking of the rubber around the top mount.
Also, did they replace the wheels or just get them welded?
 
raymond.harper said:
You have to put her up on a ramp to check these issues. Usually, a local garage will lend you the use of their ramp for a small fee. Go through all the receipts and invoices to see what exactly has been done. A model-specific code reader is a great thing to check for past and possible problems, not all faults flash up as a trouble code. If you give your location, and details of the car, a nearby member will be able to help read the codes with a suitable reader. There are plenty of cars for sale just a matter of patience to get the right one. This may not be the car for you
Thank you for your reply. Yes, I should be able to book a quick check with a local mechanic on the day of the viewing. That will always be much better than simply walking around the car and having a look at the underside with the car on the ground. Regarding the code reader, I might get one, as they are cheap and, as you said, they can show previous fault codes.
I don't know...regarding this particular car I am considering viewing, a part of me feels that I might get a lemmon but as previously mentioned, I have had situations where I've spent significantly more than 4K on a car, with full service history, and still got a lemmon. That is my luck...
 
enuff_zed said:
My concern would be that they only changed the leaking front shock, not both sides. Plus, did they change top mounts and bump stops. Check there is no cracking of the rubber around the top mount.
Also, did they replace the wheels or just get them welded?
My thoughts exactly! I'll have quite a few questions to ask...
 
This one is not an SI but it could be converted! Low owners, no accident history. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286020372448?_nkw=z4&itmmeta=01J69R2EP6PSXJ3FFHFMF9VRES&hash=item42982487e0:g:OdYAAOSwxeBmxDqm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkV3d%2BXbvDcjVh3xMOP3yFi7f9afWD8SnBjw1%2BNgT46rwCT%2BtAm7EPT8tP4n5O4KmXe5XeHnhrTEEjN8u%2Frt5KFOErIVOP39CZmnfmDvMOadDhUSfNXhmQqGyleqUYxR9b%2Fajwni6f4cHB9kMki2Rk8tJBAS%2BGthzrlKyifzciTsJ60eirTpoLo0IEUm0Jdrh%2FMSDnxAhrRqk1ANhfB41ZfmWvcaCK%2FhARvKQ361n%2Bd6dWS44dGCSfyInQfACUf3KYqUYVsLAdOIgssouyTp6fO%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6DribiyZA
 
Varixto said:
However, I used to own a 225 MK1 TT which I got at the time with 80k miles on it...the worst car I have ever had! Everything that could possibly go wrong, went. Some time later I found a post in the TT forum I was a member of saying that Mk1 TT's were cars to get rid of once they reached 80/90k miles... It looks like mine was one of those! My biggest fear is that an old Z4 could be a similar story...

I had a 225 Mk1 TT too which I bought at 4k and run up to about 90k. It didn’t give me many problems, although Audi servicing seemed to be very expensive. I felt like some very large bills were in the offing so it was definitely time to move on.

I have no concerns about the 6-cyl Z4s, particularly the M54s. I have owned 3 with a combined mileage of 300k miles and they all felt bulletproof, subject to a sensible diet of preventative maintenance.
 
Welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:

I've had two Z4s with the N52 engine and liked it so much I'm on my 2nd 3 Series with one! I wouldn't be to worried about 6 figure mileages on them, I've had one on 139K and currently 126K and they both run fine. Someone with a Coupe that has done over 200K recently posted on here!

It's the ancillaries that might need replacement like starters and alternators. And the electric water pumps do just die causing overheating in less than a mile, so a lot or people replace them as precautionary maintenance to avoid the hassle of being stranded. The downside is new Pierburg ones cost £250-300 (or £500+ from BMW)! So having some budget to spare is a good idea just in case.

Given their age they can also suffer from brittle gaskets on the cam-cover and oil filter housing resulting in oil leaks.

Make sure the roof works properly. It's a bonus if the motor has been moved into the boot, but if it hasn't there are a few people on here who can do that for a couple of hundred quid or so.

And good luck finding the right one. :thumbsup:
 
Zedebee said:
felt like some very large bills were in the offing so it was definitely time to move on.
I wish I had done the same!! I kept saying to myself: "one more thing going wrong and I'm done with this heap of junk..." I think I spent more money trying to keep that TT on the road than what I bought it for...
 
Mr Tidy said:
Welcome to the forum. :thumbsup:
Thanks! And thank you for the advice too. Although I really want to get a 2.5 si or a 3.0 si, I am not in any rush to buy. If after doing the viewing I'm not convinced that it is a good one, I'll give it a pass until a better one comes. However long that takes... Having said that, I hope this one I'm aiming to view this Friday is ok, fingers crossed, as it's quite a trek from where I live.
 
Hope it goes well then. :thumbsup:

It looks like you've done some research already, but I'd recommend giving a facelift 2.5i a miss as it's about 40bhp down on a 2.5Si and you can't easily round those missing horses up!
 
And don’t discount the pre-facelift 2.5i and 3.0i if you can find a nice one. The 2.5i can be a proper bargain and performs well, while the 3.0i is considerably more grunty than the later 2.5Si. The M54 engine must be one of the most reliable engines BMW ever built.
 
I would be looking for evidence of all the work done to rectify those faults, as you said, you dont mind high miles as long as you have a folder of receipts. My 3.0si is on 116k miles and drives like a dream, last owner had it five years and did everything preventative including the infamous waterpump and replaced it with a pierberg option. I might be selling it soon, so if you are still in the market by then...
 
This 2.5si could be a good bet- just need to add the sport seats.
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=147909
 
paddy wright said:
This 2.5si could be a good bet- just need to add the sport seats.
viewtopic.php?t=147909
Thanks for the link to the ad. I got in touch by PM with the seller. However, it's an auto and I was looking for a manual. Have you got any experience with the auto transmission? (ie: using the paddles). Is it reliable?
 
Varixto said:
paddy wright said:
This 2.5si could be a good bet- just need to add the sport seats.
viewtopic.php?t=147909
Thanks for the link to the ad. I got in touch by PM with the seller. However, it's an auto and I was looking for a manual. Have you got any experience with the auto transmission? (ie: using the paddles). Is it reliable?
I’ve no personal experience with it but not heard many issues with them (smg is the problem gearbox)
 
What about this car OP? http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202408253268509

New England full leather upgrade, heated. Xenon’s, wind deflector.
 
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