Code 002A7C Intake camshaft Sensor

[javis20]

This is what ISTA+ is reporting. However, a few day earlier, I could swear I hear a loud whistling noise while accelerating. Is this a possible clue?
Any thoughts?

 

[B21]

Might help if you tell us what engine it is?

 

[javis20]

2011 E89 N52 engine. Car starts, then within a few seconds stumbles a little, then engine races for a few seconds. At this point it really stumbles and stalls.

 

[B21]

2011 E89 N52 engine. Car starts, then within a few seconds stumbles a little, then engine races for a few seconds. At this point it really stumbles and stalls.

Looks like its a VANOS solenoid related problem from googling around?

 

[javis20]

I pulled both vanos solenoids. Top was 13 ohms and bottom was 17 ohms. Put 12volts on them and they cycle well.

So I need to check the cam position sensor. Anybody know the pinout?

 

[B21]

Here you go

 

[javis20]

Thanks. Looks like pin 1 to ground for signal.

 

[javis20]

I checked the cam position sensor and it's working fine. Pin 1 to ground is 5v until sensor sees a metal target, then it drops to zero. The car is now starting up and running fine. I'm troubled that I found nothing wrong. Thinking I should order a VDO replacement cam position sensor. Since my problem was not intermittent poor performance, my car would start and stall within 15 seconds. Completely undrivable. So possibly an intermittent problem. Anybody here with more experience have any suggestions?

 

[flybobbie]

I'm just replacing air mass flow sensor, idle being a bit unstable at the start.
Cleaning made a slight difference ( i immersed the sensor in contact cleaner in ultrasonic cleaner), but i am still replacing.
But pulling the connector off it goes default and idles perfect.
Starts fast idle then settles back.

Only difference is throttle acceleration is sluggish with connector off.

 

[javis20]

It's definitely Vanos or cam sensor related. At least that's what Ista + is telling me.

 

[enuff_zed]

It's definitely Vanos or cam sensor related. At least that's what Ista + is telling me.

No expert on these, but are the two solenoids the same?
Could you swap them and see if the fault changes to the outlet/exhaust side?

 

[flybobbie]

Just replace the cam sensor, cheap enough.

 

[javis20]

Sensor is on order from fcp euro. And yes, both solenoids are the same. If the problem returns, i will swap solenoids to see if it moves to the exhaust side.

 

[mcbutler]

Sensor is on order from fcp euro. And yes, both solenoids are the same. If the problem returns, i will swap solenoids to see if it moves to the exhaust side.

Swapping them is the first step in the fault finding process, cleaning them thoroughly can also help..

 

[javis20]

Problem hasn't returned. It persisted for a full day and a half. All I did was remove both solenoids and electrically cycle them with a 12 vdc source. I didn't clean them, they looked pristine. I then removed the cam position sensor, wiped it off and tested it electrically. It worked as it should, cycling between 5v and 0v when triggered by a piece of metal. Following this, I started the car and it's working ever since. I'm concerned I have a problem that can return at any time. The solenoid and sensors are extremely easy to change. I have a spare sensor in the boot and a set of electrical leads to cycle the solenoid if need be.

Funny thing. This all started when I was starting the car. I got the bright idea to teach my window regulators immediately after starting the car. All of a sudden the engine started to miss and then shake violently and finally stall.

 

[colb]

Have seen those symptoms caused by a dodgy camshaft sensor together with an air leak from a split in the intake boot, the car did set a code for the camshaft sensor and fuel trims were high due to the air leak. Boot replaced and new camshaft sensor fitted, HASS brand and that put it all right.