Clutch stop

[Putter Whore]

Judging by results when using the 'search' function, I don't think there's been much on here about clutch stops. I've just fitted one myself and been impressed with the results so thought I'd let you know in case it floats your boat.

Very simple to fit - it took me less than 10 mins including adjustment - and costing £6 + £4 p&p (eBay - BMWstoppers), the idea of the clutch stop is to eliminate the dead space your clutch travels from the floor to the bite point. Simply unscrew the factory fitted stop and screw the new one in. Once you've got your preferred height, tighten the locking nut.

I've set mine just before the bite point and have been amazed at how much difference such a simple and easy mod has made. I got use to the difference very quickly. The gear changes feel smoother and whilst I've only had it fitted for c200 miles, no kangaroo-ing so far! I guess it has the added bonus of quicker gear shifts (albeit marginal) as well.

Anyway, I'd recommend. Has anyone else got one fitted?

 

[Merrsh1]

I got one a while ago after suffering from gear change issues. It does make a big difference and with the advice of revving higher between changes it makes the M a much better drive.

Still kangaroo if I leave it in sport and forget when pulling away :lol:

 

[mmm-five]

If it works for you, then great

I have seen a few posts about them, but it's usually our more gullible cousins over the pond that buy them (along with Slick50, Ametech Engine Restore, Nitrogen tyre inflation, etc.) :roll:

Don't see why a competent driver would need one of these, as you usually learn the correct clutch pedal position in a any new car in a matter of hours

The 'problem' with one of these, is if you adjust/set it slightly too high and the clutch isn't actually fully disengaged (by maybe only 10-20%), then you're effectively 'slipping' the clutch all the time :thumbsdown:

 

[andysat]

So if they are set slightly 'wrong' would it cause undue wear on the clutch?

 

[Putter Whore]

So if they are set slightly 'wrong' would it cause undue wear on the clutch?

Yes, absolutely. You can tell when the clutch starts to bite because if you let it out very slowly, the revs (at idle) start to dip. You just make sure you can push the clutch down past this point.

 

[Steve220]

It will put constant adverse pressure on the release bearing, instead of it being at rest whilst the clutch is engaged, it will be turning with it. I never liked the idea personally, but its all down to preference.

 

[th30d0r3]

It will put constant adverse pressure on the release bearing, instead of it being at rest whilst the clutch is engaged, it will be turning with it. I never liked the idea personally, but its all down to preference.

:? Erm, how'd you work that one out? it only comes into play when you disengage the clutch; you're essentially dictating how far the disengagement is by stopping it at a prefered distance.
The only negative to having one is what the MMM-Five mentioned due to a bad adjustment.

You're right about it being down to preference though, however it can remove the kangarooing by reducing the travel.

 

[bcworkz]

The clutch start interlock switch will prevent one from installing a too tall stop. If it were so tall as to prevent full disengagement, the car would not start. It's not adjustable, so there's no avoiding this 'feature', except maybe disconnecting the switch and shorting the leads. If you go through such lengths, you deserve to have a slipping clutch.

 

[mmm-five]

The clutch start interlock switch will prevent one from installing a too tall stop. If it were so tall as to prevent full disengagement, the car would not start. It's not adjustable, so there's no avoiding this 'feature', except maybe disconnecting the switch and shorting the leads. If you go through such lengths, you deserve to have a slipping clutch.

Mine starts up with the clutch in any position, so don't think the UK/EU cars have this feature.

 

[Steve220]

It will put constant adverse pressure on the release bearing, instead of it being at rest whilst the clutch is engaged, it will be turning with it. I never liked the idea personally, but its all down to preference.

:? Erm, how'd you work that one out? it only comes into play when you disengage the clutch; you're essentially dictating how far the disengagement is by stopping it at a prefered distance.
The only negative to having one is what the MMM-Five mentioned due to a bad adjustment.

You're right about it being down to preference though, however it can remove the kangarooing by reducing the travel.

The release bearing has a flat surface on it which touches the fingers of the pressure plate. When the clutch is FULLY disengaged, there is a slight gap (fraction of mil) between the fingers and the bearing's surface which causes the bearing to stop turning what the stop is there to do is take up the slack, the problem is, you need to SEE the clutch bearing to do this properly and having one in other than the standard point in which the clutch rests will cause the bearing to continually touch the fingers, causing it to turn ALL the time, even when the clutch is disengaged - causing excessive wear as its being used (at guess) 80% more than normal.

 

[Steve220]

The clutch start interlock switch will prevent one from installing a too tall stop. If it were so tall as to prevent full disengagement, the car would not start. It's not adjustable, so there's no avoiding this 'feature', except maybe disconnecting the switch and shorting the leads. If you go through such lengths, you deserve to have a slipping clutch.

Thats a US over protection thing - the European cars don't have the clutch start interlock.

 

[domsz4]

It will put constant adverse pressure on the release bearing, instead of it being at rest whilst the clutch is engaged, it will be turning with it. I never liked the idea personally, but its all down to preference.

:? Erm, how'd you work that one out? it only comes into play when you disengage the clutch; you're essentially dictating how far the disengagement is by stopping it at a prefered distance.
The only negative to having one is what the MMM-Five mentioned due to a bad adjustment.

You're right about it being down to preference though, however it can remove the kangarooing by reducing the travel.

The release bearing has a flat surface on it which touches the fingers of the pressure plate. When the clutch is FULLY disengaged, there is a slight gap (fraction of mil) between the fingers and the bearing's surface which causes the bearing to stop turning what the stop is there to do is take up the slack, the problem is, you need to SEE the clutch bearing to do this properly and having one in other than the standard point in which the clutch rests will cause the bearing to continually touch the fingers, causing it to turn ALL the time, even when the clutch is disengaged - causing excessive wear as its being used (at guess) 80% more than normal.

glad you said that, so the clutch stop in this case restricts the pedal movement that would pull the bearing away from the fingers ... i didnt quite get it as in a previous car the clutch stop restricted you pressing the cluctch down too much and effectivly over engaging the clutch.

i can see now how this may help stop the kangarooing although i agree you should know where your bite point is.

 

[Steve220]

You can do it both ways, i had one in the evo, but in that case the clutch is a pull type, so the bearing pulls the fingers and therefore pulls the pressure plate, but due to being a double plate clutch it took a fair bit of effort to disengage

 

[andy6409]

The release bearing has a flat surface on it which touches the fingers of the pressure plate. When the clutch is FULLY disengaged, there is a slight gap (fraction of mil) between the fingers and the bearing's surface which causes the bearing to stop turning what the stop is there to do is take up the slack, the problem is, you need to SEE the clutch bearing to do this properly and having one in other than the standard point in which the clutch rests will cause the bearing to continually touch the fingers, causing it to turn ALL the time, even when the clutch is disengaged - causing excessive wear as its being used (at guess) 80% more than normal.

The release bearing only has clearance when the clutch is fully engaged i.e pedal up . A stop limiting the downward travel of the pedal will have no effect on this clearance as it is limiting the disengagement of the clutch when the bearing is meant to be contacting the clutch

 

[th30d0r3]

The release bearing has a flat surface on it which touches the fingers of the pressure plate. When the clutch is FULLY disengaged, there is a slight gap (fraction of mil) between the fingers and the bearing's surface which causes the bearing to stop turning what the stop is there to do is take up the slack, the problem is, you need to SEE the clutch bearing to do this properly and having one in other than the standard point in which the clutch rests will cause the bearing to continually touch the fingers, causing it to turn ALL the time, even when the clutch is disengaged - causing excessive wear as its being used (at guess) 80% more than normal.

The release bearing only has clearance when the clutch is fully engaged i.e pedal up . A stop limiting the downward travel of the pedal will have no effect on this clearance as it is limiting the disengagement of the clutch when the bearing is meant to be contacting the clutch

That's exactly my point, unfortunately our learned friend has it a little backwards.