Clutch / Gearbox Rattle

[DPG]

So BMW think the rattle in mine is down to the release bearing.

However, after replacing, putting back together and test driving they are now saying that I need a new gearbox.

Where the f**k did they test drive it, silverstone.

I'm now Z less for 2 weeks as a new gearbox has to be delivered from Germany. :x

I've never noticed any issues with the gearbox in the past.

 

[benlumley]

The cynic in me would suggest that the dealer know that the AUC warranty will pay for it without asking questions in this scenario and it's easy money

 

[DPG]

You could be right.

I wonder how much a gearbox replacement would cost without warranty.

 

[corsaire77]

To quote the article above (my link two posts earlier, page 2), no matter what you do with the gearbox, it won't stop the rattle - unless the gearbox is totally fubar. The gear rollover in the gearbox is caused by drivetrain vibrations carried over through the flywheel.
I'd replace it first before changing the 'box.

350zs after DMF to solid flywheel conversion sound like mortar mixers, but still no gearbox issues. So do Mustangs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyFgTg57j0Y

Keep us posted how it eventually works out. Dealers have been known to replace the diff because of the clung (needs greasing) and the gearbox because of the flywheel chatter. My car's due for inspection next month, it's been chattering for ages, nowadays a tad louder - I'll do it at a local LUK garage and I'll try to do the clutch/flywheel combo first.

 

[TONYMOR]

Glad to read this thread as I've the same symptoms on my 3.0si I also find the gear box " notchy" at times been told this is typical also. Any comments ?.

 

[Swiftly]

I have the same symptoms on my 3.0si, which is worse when engine is fully warmed up. Not concerned as my dealer told me it was nothing to worry about and all zeds do it some some degree.

 

[jan_tekin]

The cynic in me would suggest that the dealer know that the AUC warranty will pay for it without asking questions in this scenario and it's easy money

Yep I'd agree

Although I didn't turn down there offer to replace the gearbox and clutch.

What's funny is when you go back after they done the work, the exact same noise that made them change the lot is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about

 

[TONYMOR]

That rumbling you displayed is exactly what I get on my 3.0 si. :thumbsdown:

 

[grumps]

I had this problem as well just after I bought mine (2007 E86 3.0 si) with 33,000 on the clock. I took it back to Barons, Farnborough where I bought it from and they replaced the DMF under warranty. So far, with another 5k on the clock, I haven't had any repeat of the problem.

 

[corsaire77]

The cynic in me would suggest that the dealer know that the AUC warranty will pay for it without asking questions in this scenario and it's easy money

Yep I'd agree

Although I didn't turn down there offer to replace the gearbox and clutch.

What's funny is when you go back after they done the work, the exact same noise that made them change the lot is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about

Because the clowns should've replaced the DMF. :fightwall:

 

[mjgerrard]

OT but you sound like pilot

What on Earth is Pilot?

 

[mjgerrard]

Glad to read this thread as I've the same symptoms on my 3.0si I also find the gear box " notchy" at times been told this is typical also. Any comments ?.

Yes I find mine terrible coming from an MX-5. I'd actually entertain an auto with flappy paddles instead.

 

[miln0039]

Glad to read this thread as I've the same symptoms on my 3.0si I also find the gear box " notchy" at times been told this is typical also. Any comments ?.

Yes I find mine terrible coming from an MX-5. I'd actually entertain an auto with flappy paddles instead.

It's not terrible.

It's manly.

 

[mjgerrard]

Haha yes. The hairdresser's jokes have stopped.

 

[miln0039]

Haha yes. The hairdresser's jokes have stopped.

I wanted a Z4M Roadster but the wife called me a hairdresser

 

[TONYMOR]

If it will help your cause / add to this thread I am a Hairdresser and proud of it!!!!.

 

[MHZ4C]

I have the same noises with my Z4C. I went from a Mkiv VW Golf and I was very 'interested' to know of the noise was signalling imminent clutch failure. A few forum posts helped to reassure me. Noise is audible when warm and clutch peddle not pressed. Never really hear car idle when cold (start and go to avoid the HVA issues) but definitely there when hot.

Also have the slight rattle sometimes when pulling away when hot, mainly in town traffic and pulling away slowly. Similar to the noise when I turn off the engine, so I always push the clutch peddle in when turning off and starting the engine.

The noises are no worse as the miles go by. Fingers crossed, and I've read that this is pretty standard for the type of clutch.

I heard stories of clutches being replaced early on and the noise coming straight back.

 

[corsaire77]

My DMF became a tiny bit noisier over the time of almost two years. The chatter (aka gear rollover) was hardly audible with the aircon and stereo on, but it annoyed me nonetheless - I knew it was there and kept listening for it, specially on 1-2 gear changes. I waited until my clutch wore out a bit more (it's a self-adjusting unit, but the engagement point moved dangerously too high - with all that reckless hooning and start-stop traffic) to replace the whole DMF/clutch combo.

I've just replaced the dual mass flywheel with a new LUK assembly. There was some free play and the springs were worn - it transferred the engine vibrations to the gearbox, hence the rattling noise. Of course, I threw in a new LUK clutch - now it engages close to the floor.

There is no audible gear rollover now, although I'm pretty sure it will gradually return as the DMF springs gain more miles.

For the time being, with new ATE disks and pads all over to boot, I'm enjoying the 'new car' feel.

 

[TONYMOR]

I guess it's Just a case of smarting from the cost.!!!?.

 

[corsaire77]

I guess it's Just a case of smarting from the cost.!!!?.

The LUK clutch/DMF combo (they made the original OEM set) cost me about 450 pounds (2260 PLN) in parts, so that was not excessively expensive. We're talking Hyundai price range here. There was much labour involved (drop the exhaust, the shaft, the heatshields, the gearbox), but in Poland those rates are obviously lower - I did it at an authorised LUK garage. However, with the front/rear ATE disks & pads, the full inspection (a very punctilious one you don't get at the stealers, with genuine love and attention involved), screw sets, the exhaust gasket, all the filters, BMW LL04 oil change, fluids, electronic braking & suspensions tests, full alignment, new spark plugs (pretty black after 75K kilometres) and one oxygen sensor, it amounted to about 1500 pounds (7500 PLN). I've been fixing my cars at that particular indy for the last eight years, so I prefer to pay a bit more and deal with the guys I know and trust.